ThundahBeagle

I really do like the looks of the Duratracs. I liken them to the old Goodyear Wrangler TD's that I used to have on my '91 Cheyenne Shortbed 3 speed manual 4x4. Bitchin' truck. However I doubt I really need duratrac. While I have a little bit of fun off-road at the occasional beach, or camping several times a year, I am usually on paved roads or sometimes on fire roads. My used '14 GMC came with Geolandar HT on it. Great highway tire, excellent fuel mileage. But I may go with a GY all terrain adventure or a trailrunner when these are worn

Scout will really only bay when he's on a hot scent or has visually acquired a rabbit. He will more traditionally bark if theres someone at the door or just outside the house though. Other than that he doesnt really make a noise for not reason, so if he barks or bays, I have to get up and look around to see what he sees.

Beautiful dog, Grumpy! I like the brindle coloring. Here's Scout the Thundah Beagle at Mt. Washington this past weekend:

Thanks, Grump! Me too. One of the best dogs I've ever had. He's all "go, go, go!" and wants to be outside in the woods and mountains all the time "on the hunt."

To @Epsilon Plus Coil-overs work by placing the shock inside the coil spring, but that coil spring has to have an attachment or "perch" location on the shock itself. The Bilstein 5100's have 4 settings. The lowest setting is "stock" height. Top setting is about 1.8 inches above stock. If you have a lift that uses shims above or below your coilover unit, and you are using stock shocks, then you can simply change out your shocks with the 4600's or the 5100's set at the lowest perch setting. Most people get the 5100's INSTEAD of using shims, because the spring perch can be set higher. The shock fluid is not the cause of the lift, the fact that the coil spring sits higher on the shock is what is doing the work. Like choking up on a baseball bat. So for example, you could get rid of the BDS hardware at the front of your truck and just use the Bilstein 5100's at the top setting. Supposedly you will get a better ride quality as well. I have the Bilstein 5100's on my truck and they ride great. Way better than the Ranchos that I took out of there. I hope that helps

I am relying on the stock UCA's, but I'm only using Bilstein 5100's and nothing special

They are playing off this type of scheme here:

I've seen this old-school color scheme being done by a number of dealers out there. The exterior of these trucks definitely give off a '70's vibe, and I think the best ones have been done using white 17 inch steel wagon wheel rims. That's what I'd like to do with mine:

Please see my question in the post immediately above this one, if you happen to know. Thanks

Well I'm wanting to know a professional shop's opinion (anyone's experience, really but for sure a 4x4 shop) on whether the removal of the 1.25" block and replacement with a tapered 2.25" block is actually a good idea on these trucks if I've just installed Bilstein 5100's at the top setting at the front? Is the drive shaft angle within acceptible limits as is, or am I looking for trouble down the road if I dont install 2.25 inch blocks with a taper? I've got a 5 or 6 thousand mile road trip - Boston to Big Sky and back- coming up in October and I dont want to cause an issue before and certainly not during that trip. Sorry if some of this ground has been covered. I wanted to read this whole topic first. Git to page 40-something and went plaid. So I decided to cut to the chase

Is @MRT Motorsports still on here?

@Sierra Jon , is that enough to qualify as a heavy half ton or would you need the leafs fully swapped out with the 5 from a 2500?

That looks really good for holding 1200. I'm with you, I dont need to go terribly fast anymore, I just know it was steady as a rock no matter what speed I brought it up to, and I'd like to keep it that way, as stable and steady as possible. So I'm optimistic Thanks

@Granite7, is this picture with the truck loaded with the concrete? I've got my front Bilstein 5100's at the top notch, and am thinking about a 1 inch taller block as well. What block did you use? Any predisposition between, say, Ready Lift and MotoFab or any of the others? Some have complained that these are tapered, but with the front raised almost a couple of clicks, I guess that's to align the drive shaft better...any input with your setup? I hope not to have vibrations at 75mph, as I had a very nice riding truck when it was totally stock

Very very nice! I really like the cab-height better than a 4 inch rise. And having Line-x put on it makes it sort of like the 1970's K5 Blazer tops. I might do that to mine

I admit that I would prefer a cab-height cap instead of a low rise, but the cap and the rack were both Craigslist finds, and will serve well. The cap has a sliding side windows, a two-handle lockong rear liftgate, and a front window that is both removable and with sliders. All I need now is to replace my rear glass with even a manual slider, and that would just be about right.

Leer 180 with the TracRac Cap Rac that I installed on top. On my 2014 GMC Sierra k1500 Z71, now with Bilstein 5100's all the way around, front on highest setting. I like the versatility of having a cap. Extra, locking storage space for camping or cargo.

I'd love to swap out mine on my '14 Z71. I'll have to see if I can find some. Thanks for this.

Ah. Well that's great. And fast. So, kind of like my prom date... Seriously though, thanks for that info. I'm thinking of bringing the rear end up that extra inch with a block, so I can keep the Leer cap and the toolbox, but may also want to tow a small travel trailer (22ft+-) and would like to make sure my arse isnt dragging when I do all that. Thanks again @Granite7

Here's the big question...do the Z71's come with a larger block at the rear axle than the non Z71's? Reason I'm asking is that I've added 5100's all around with fronts on top setting and I want to know if I add an inch of block lift in the rear will I be over extending the new Bilstein 5100 rear shocks? Here are some details that may be helpful... 2014 GMC Sierra Z71, Double cab. Great truck. I have a Leer 180 cap on it, and a diamond deck cross type toolbox (full of tools!) sitting lengthwise in the back...together thats gotta be about 400 lbs of weight. It was time to replace the Ranchos so I went Bilstein. Got them from a guy named Kolak at the Jeep forums. No offense to MTM (?) Whose been posting here, I have experience with Kolak so I went that way. BEFORE adding the toolbox and Leer cap, I believe I measured the rear at about 39 inches and the front at about 35. Yep, 4 inches of downward rake to the front. AFTER adding the full toolbox and Leer cap i measured 37 1/2 inches in the back. After adding Bilstien 5100's all around with the fronts at top setting, I got almost exactly 2 inches of lift. I put a long level along the under side of the rocker panels and again, I'm just about perfectly level. Bubble is between the lines. The ride is SO much better, but as others have noted, 35 mph around a potholed city street is still dodgy. I guess it always will be in a truck. Otherwise the truck is steady and sure. So again, do the Z71's come with a larger block at the rear axle than the non Z71's? Any solid info would be helpful. Thanks in advance

Nice truck I've heard that Bilsteins can level and give a more comfy ride. I've also heard that LT tires can harshen the ride compared to highway tires. I dont know because my first three trucks were all GMt400's from the early 1990's and I never felt I had to lift them to do what I wanted. Looking at Dieselfan1's setup gives me a kick. There's so much that goes into that, I have to appreciate the engineering, thought and work that went into it, it's just not the right thing for me. I cant imagine that the dealer can arbitrarily cancel a warranted without the manufacturer OK'ing that move. I gotta believe just some new shocks, made for the truck, that also have the ability to level it off a little, shouldnt be a problem. Hope not

I try to call it like I see it. There are some members that I have agreed with in the past that I sort of disagree with here. So please, nobody take offense... Yes I understand that the Engineers across the board are placing smaller tanks in these trucks for EPA and CAFE standards and I fully comprehend that move. Range is roughly the same as it has always been because the newer trucks are more fuel efficient. But I don't support knocking this guy because he wants a bigger tank. This IS a forum, after all. Someone in another thread knocked one of us for having a high lift. But the man can lift as high as he wants. This man is just reaching "up" in his own way, I guess. My GMT400 1993 and '94 full sized, 2 door Blazer Silverados both had 30 gallon tanks. And they were much shorter and more maneuverable than a current Sierra double cab with 6.5 ft bed. But they got worse mileage. The Suburbans of that same period had 40 gallon tanks. In the square body generation prior to the GMT400, an option was available to have an entire second tank installed at the truck's passenger side! When your fuel gauge read low, just flip a switch and watch it climb back up. If they both read low, then the wallet had to really strain. The man feels like he's being gypped even though he isnt. He wants more, and I guess that's not wrong. I wish my 14 Sierra had a 30 gallon tank, or the option for a second 25 (24?) gallon. But it doesnt. I can still get 550, maybe even close to 600 miles if I really hyper mile it on flat ground. I wish I had more but I'm coping. Maybe the OP could redevelop the 2nd fuel tank system and sell it, and see how many takers he gets. I'd like to see that.

As someone else already asked, is anyone else also experiencing this with the six-speed transmission? I have a 2014 GCM Sierra SLE, 6 speed and I feel this. I've had passengers look over at me exchanging sideways glances wondering what the hell just happened

I love the single cab short bed!

Also, as someone who has an aversion against drilling into the roof as long as the truck is still under warranty and I'm making payments, I'm tempted to place my rooftop lights at the creat of the Leer 180 instead. It does rise about 4 inches higher than my cab roof... I feel like it would be easier to install them there, and easier to mitigate any possible leakage if it did spring a leak. Has anyone else done this or thought of it?