doubeleive

is that smaller bolt on the tongue some kind of adjuster for it?

that's one thing I was considering, maybe some bilstein 4600's? think a extender would allow for a full size shock? or maybe some adjustable ones?

inez 4/6 kit, the front has there control arms and stock strut/shock, rear has the driveline moved above the leaf springs on blocks, there shorter shock's and wireless airlift bags, with 5 psi it sits at 32" at all 4 corners, bump stop delete, no notch. I usually run it with 10 psi just so it doesn't bottom out as much. when I bought it the previous owner had installed it or had it installed I had to fix a couple things the parking brake cable is a little issue it runs right where the airbags are and was rubbing on the bags so I adjusted it as much as I could and zip tied it, bottomed it out one day on a speed bump and smashed a abs sensor cable replaced that and got those out of way, just little stuff. drives good but I wouldn't mind the rear riding a little better without having to air it up

ya I think so it's a big fatty I was under it the other day looking to see if it was the oem one or not, my truck is lowered 4/6 and I get some vibrations but hard to tell what the cause is I don't know if it is the tires, wheels, driveline, or something else.

ok, mine is the same but 4wd, my driveline is a big fat sucker no center bearing

Weird my driveline is completely different, what cab/box is your truck?

hmm, mine was built in good o'l Flint

eh I have had that happen before on a previous truck, intermittent problems are a ****** for sure but mine turned out to be a bad starter, replaced the starter and never happened again.

The amp is behind the back seat mounted to the rear of the cab, I have accumulated just about everything needed to do a full swap, I just need a amp wiring kit and I can swap all the speakers, i put kappa's in the rear doors and I have a component set for the front doors and I bought the sundowns for the dash, I have a jl audio 6channel amp for the regular speakers and a memphis single ch for the base speakers, i have 2 10" jl audios and the cabinet to put under the rear seat and the amp adapter harness, Oh i also need a amp mounting bracket and I am waiting on kenwood to release there 10" headunits which should be anytime now. i have the maestro rr kit and all the adapters needed to swap the headunit so I'm almost there..... I have been piecing it together since xmas since I'm not rich ??

so since you have done those do you know are the dash speakers tied into the door speakers? or do they have there own channel from the factory amp?

what brand/model number did you use for the dash speakers?

I'm about to be doing the same, is that long metal part factory? or is that something you added, I have most of parts needed but I need to make a bracket and get a power wire made up, which way are you running the amp wire and how long of a cable did you use?

nice, mine has 4/6 drop I book marked the website so I will probably give them a call soon

I wonder if they make one for the crew cab standard bed all I saw was short bed on there website

That's why I always go with a dry filter option, they obviously work well my throttle body is always clean as a whistle on a side note these newer trucks are pretty finicky with the air flow if you keep getting a CEL you might have to get a tune

Can you clarify if the radio controls worked with the steering wheel change? or did you take the radio controls off because they didn't work?

you can if the cai has the flare/nipple for it to clip on to and if they are the correct length. The hose's that came with it were formed differently than the oem hose because of the location closer to the throttle body.

nice, I almost went with the S&B but the cold air inductions inc. had oem type quick connects for the hoses instead of clamps so that kind of pushed me there way

just cruising the freeway is generally not the problem unless i'm doing 120+ in which case it gets a little warmer, its the fast accelerations that heat it up quick, drove it around a little more today and it's hanging around in the 135-145 range, outside temp was a warm 75-80 today, slightly aggressive driving. I'm happy with the results, I have the B&M deep pan sitting here that needs to go on it next.

no but I do drive it like i just stole the crown jewels and heat kills

added the true-cool 40k, before I added the cooler I had already deleted the transmission thermostat, with the thermostat in place originally trans temps were 190-220+ almost always, deleting the thermostat dropped it down to about 170-190, adding the true-cool dropped it to about 155 after a good little workout, just cruising it was 122-135 ambient temp was about 75deg took me a little while to get it installed this is a universal kit, it was simple enough to just pull one pipe, cut it and flare one end (discovered I don't really have skills for flaring) then fit a hose over it and clamped it, ran the hose thru the plastic, used the supplied brackets with a little bending and cutting, not all professional but it works and should remain trouble free for many years. I installed it to work in unison with the factory cooler, I did trim a couple small pieces off of the shutters for clearance even though the shutters are disabled by blackbear if I have to put the tune back to stock then it wont give me any problems blocking the shutters from working. It's only letting me upload 1 picture for some reason.

has anybody upgraded the starter? I see there is a 1.4kw and 1.7kw don't know if there is higher than that maybe a aftermarket, my oem one must be the 1.4 just seems weak compared to previous vehicles.

how much was it?

well maybe there was a way to tetris it out of there but I wasn't trying to break anything off or spill battery acid so I just unbolted the reservoir and moved it to the side, either way it was a pia compared to my previous trucks lol

maybe yours was the 48 instead of the 94?