doubeleive

ya, I forgot bottom part was all part of the whole housing, I already changed the hid's to 45w just would be nice to have the lower led bar but some led bulbs will work don't really feel like doing resistors so I might buy the wams programmer then I can change stuff as needed. I just bought the truck a couple months ago, baby steps had to get xmas out of the way before spending more money on this this thing

hmm, mine is a 2lt so I have the hid's on top with the led drl, but the turn signal is a standard bulb, do you think it would be hard to change the turn signal housing to the led housing? ***edit, I guess it's all 1 piece from what I am seeing, great, how much difference is there in the wiring? ***nevermind, I'm not paying the price they want for a housing just to have a lower led bar, I will just slap some led's in there and i'm good, lol

what turn signal lights are those? some kind of switchback setup?

dorman makes replacement arm rest's, cheaper than a new one, i put one in my 2012 3 years ago and it's holding up nicely.

ya i'm waiting on the B&M deep trans pan the things are are always on backorder for 3 months, I already have the trucool 40k sitting here just need to get it installed being lazy so I probably wont get it done till spring, shutters are turned off in a tune but it still gets pretty warm

mine will hit 220 easy just driving around, but I have heavy foot, i did the thermostat delete and it will still hit 200+

black is on sale also for the gmc's https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&epid=672234729&_ssn=priorityautomotive2015&hash=item3b33e938e6%3Ag%3AY2QAAOSwYUpduPV5&item=254273992934&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xsill.TRS0&_nkw=sill&_sacat=0

not quite sure of the exact model it was installed by the previous owner, would there be a part number on it somewhere?

hmm I have the Carven catback on mine coming out the stock location, does't seem overly loud to me but it has a nice rumble when you get on it, just idling you can't really even hear it, the Borla on my Yukon Denali is much louder

Battery was probably going bad already then, normally that shouldn't happen

correct, you can put a old alternator on and wire it up if you really wanted to, you would just have to deal with the error message all the time because the system would be looking for the digital signal

the 2 pin alternators are digital, controlled by the bcm, they will change the charging state to maintain the battery and supposedly give better fuel economy (so they say, i think it's b.s.), when that amp clamp is disconnected it forces the system into default charging mode because it can't figure out what to do so it just goes into a safe mode I guess

it is a amp clamp, the bcm monitors it and then controls the voltage output from the alternator accordingly, it's all digital, you can completely disable the digital system and go old school but it will always have a check engine light if you do by cel I mean it will say "service charging system" and wont go away

it wont hurt anything to disconnect it and it shouldn't throw any check engine light, but a dealer level scanner will pick it up as a trouble code (bcm code) like a gds2 scanner will see it is disconnected

no he's talking about the voltage control, if you look on your ground cable coming off of the battery about 6" down there is a black ring clipped on with a wire harness clipped to it, you can disconnect it and the voltage should default to 14+ all the time, I didn't really make any difference on my 2012 so I just left it on

I don't know if the shaft is different on them or not, I just made sure I bought one with the same style pulley and slapped it in

You can run the bigger 220amp alternator off of a 2500/3500 on these trucks, these alternators are the same design as the mechman, you can compare them side by side-no difference, I put one on mine the shell is slightly larger is all, fits perfect, same harness, same pulley size. just be sure the pulley design is the same as your existing alternator there is 2 different pulley's one is a standard pulley and one has a clutch

I have the factory liners in my z71 also those are pretty nice, I also have the husky weatherbeaters in my yukon, both liners are very good would be hard to be beat the factory liners with anything else.

I haven't measured the tube width but I installed a cold air inductions inc CAI kit #512-0102-B the Truck also has a Carven catback system, when I bought the Carven was already on it I believe the flapper has been deleted if it had one, this thing really needs a tune I am going to order the tune tomorrow I just have to call blackbear because I bought a used autocal and there seems to be some confusion about what numbers they need i just have to clarify i'm going to order a tune for this truck and my 6.2l yukon which has a pretty similar setup.

installed a Katech ported throttle body, now i just need to pay blackbear for a tune and take some log files I have a autocal already

had the cooling system flushed with the dealer machine and had the brake system flushed, nice clean fluid now, was going to have them do the recall for the brake module still no fix yet, they said it should happen in the next 2 weeks they have vehicles they can't sell until they get the software fix.

a decoupled alternator pulley is something new to me but from what I am able to determine is it works just like a fan clutch, spins a little freely i'm assuming it's designed to put less strain on the motor at low idle/acceleration.

my 2018 1500 has the decoupled pulley, I used one that goes in a 2018 3500 6.6l, ac delco p/n: 84143541, 23298275 (KW5 220a), these are the same design as the mechman for nearly half the cost, I managed to find one on ebay for $100 (used), rock auto has it for $250, I paid $399 for my 240amp mechman in the 2012 yukon so $100 was a steal

a previous thing I did was swapped in a 220amp alternator (kw5) from a 3500, it's plug-n-play just make sure you get the one with the correct pulley as there is 2 different ones, decoupled and steel

the interior light "wire" is right under the dash on the drivers side plugged into the bcm, i just tapped into that wire and then I used the 10mm mounting bolt on the lower kickpanel as the ground and then just ran a led strip under the edge of the dash to the passenger side, zip tied it at both ends so it is tight like a tightrope, it's not in the way of anything and if it needs to be moved for any reason I can just cut the zip tie on the passenger side and pull it out then put it back later. I ran the wires so they are behind the factory wires and out of the way of getting yanked or pinched, the power wire is fused so if it shorted out for any reason it will just pop the fuse on the led strip and not harm anything else.?