Truckasaurus

Thanks, This was corrected with a software update some time ago, so it's not really an issue any longer. My primary motivation for going with the block heater wasn't for cold start, so much as it was so that i could have HEAT a lot faster upon cold start.... having the heated block yields a heated cabin a lot faster. Turns out it was a software glitch that if the block heater was used in temperatures greater than some threshhold, the computer would think the engine was overheating and go into full fan mode... and was only defeatable by turning off the truck for 30 minutes to reset.

Nah, it's the same bolt. You might need to chase the threads with a tap if HW3's suggestion above doesn't work. Probably some paint or something similar on the threads.

Someone in this thread makes pretty spiffy machined aluminum clamps that work with some of the covers for a “no-drill” install. But all of the factory options and most aftermarket sellers require you to drill five 1/4” holes through each plastic bed rail cap to access the factory holes that are hidden behind. While technically not a “no drill” solution, plastic bed caps are replaceable wear items and are probably cheaper to replace than buying the aforementioned machined aluminum clamps. I installed the factory hard cover (see my post above that includes a pdf copy of the install manual for full details) and found it to be a pretty simple operation. Loosen two nuts and two spring clips and the whole thing lifts off for full access. What I like about the factory hard cover is that it does not interfere with the front of the bed, so by lifting off the cover, I can put my dirt bikes in and use the built in wheel chocks without interference.

Yup... the only difference. Mag ride versus the AT4s offroad suspension with factory lift (I also got the DuraTrac tire upgrade). My buddy bought a '19 Denali while my special order '20 was stuck on the line at the factory in Fort Wayne during the strike. I generally prefer "offroad package" trucks for their smaller diameter wheels and offroad tuned suspensions. More appropriate for USFS roads with my dirtbike in the back.

Great thread... this is precisely why I went with a fully loaded AT4 over the Denali.... I hate chrome and the Denali had a LOT of it. Bonus was getting the CarbonPro which had even more blacked out goodies (badges, tailpipes, etc.).

It is included in the installation kit that comes with the tonneau. I am told that these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3MUY9K) are the correct J-nuts if you're trying to make your own solution. You'll need five for each side (the sixth threaded hole is already in place close to the tailgate. The "holes" you drill are in the plastic bed cap to allow screws to pass through to these threaded holes that are hidden behind the bed cap.

Drill holes in the bed itself, or just the plastic cap on top of the bedside rails? The factory solution requires drilling through the bed cap (an inexpensive replacement part if you're concerned)... the holes are so you can pass screws through to the J-nuts that slide into the slots in the carbon bed that are hidden by the bed cap.

Good video showing the process, but that's not a Lomax "fix," that's the factory GM solution for attaching the factory hard and soft folding tonneau covers. Use the alignment tool to drill the holes, insert J-Nuts into the factory holes in the bedside. Only difference is that with the GM tri-folding cover, you attach a single rail to the six holes on each side as opposed to a bracket to each of the six holes, but the process of creating threaded holes is the same.

Easy. Loosen two nuts and two snap hooks. Hard part is lifting off the whole thing by yourself... easy if you have another set of hands.

Yes. The kicker has two small rubber plugs you remove. The LED light assemblies need to be removed from the "trays" that they come in with the kit, and the holes left by the rubber plugs are sized to hold the LEDs perfectly.

Cool, so it’s the same mechanism as the GM “Factory” cover. I wonder if GM is supplying these parts/specs to aftermarket accessories makers (they should).

Thanks for the photo! I need these... I liked the plastic ones at first, but have discovered that the rough surface finish on them traps dirt and dust (particularly in the groove portion) and tends to make the whole truck look dirty when it's not.

Gig-Em! (℅ '95). Also, notice you have the painted wheel trim. Did you install yourself or did you order from the factory? Do you have a good pic of them, i'm curious how they interact with the (non-painted) mud guards that will remain.

Carbon black is the color on the AT4 grill surround, etc. it’s a cool color, but I wasn’t about two wait for the “late availability” color.

Yes, hard cover. They have a soft folding one now, read above to see one guys review of it. Removing my hard folding cover is easy. Fold it up, loosen two nuts, unclip safety clips, and lift off truck. It’s somewhat heavy and awkward so better to have a helper, but I do mine myself. It’s one of the things I like about it, you can completely remove it and nothing remains on the head rail so it doesn’t get in the way when I load dirt bikes in the back, etc. The mounting hardware is all on the side rails, and is pretty unobtrusive with the cover removed.

Yeah, that's the folding GM factory cover... i.e., the one I have on my truck. Works well for me... no complaints so far.

Read above. Pictures all over this thread.

That's a new part offering.... nobody here has mentioned it yet. Let us know how it goes, but for me, I was only interested in a "hard" tonneau cover.

The manual does not state a weight limit, but two bikes on a tailgate is so frequently done, I wouldn't be at all concerned about it.

Nicely done! Great job finding the J-nuts to match too... had I discovered those in advance, I might have similarly tried a custom aftermarket installation. Folks take note of those part numbers/links!

I don't think it's any heavier than a comparable tri-fold from Bakflip or Undercover, etc., but yes it is bulky and heavy. They warn you it's a two person job, but being myself, I took that as a challenge to do it solo. Also, from my unboxing experience, the cover was awkwardly folded inside the box with a bunch of styrofoam, so it WILL be easier to fold and remove/install in the future versus the first time. If you think one of these suckers is too heave to consider removing and reinstalling, go check out one of the aluminum rolltop ones..

I have the Duratracs. Yes, they're noisier than the standard tires... but not annoyingly so in my 1500 miles driven thus far.

The tailgate will most certainly hold the weight of a motorcycle. Notice in the picture how the rear tire is fully supported by the bed AND the main portion of the tailgate? I think the only issue or concern may be if your bike's wheelbase is so long as to put weight on the secondary tailgate portion. The Manual indicates that if ramps are to be used, that you should drop the secondary out of the way and put the ramps on the primary gate... apparently the latch holding the secondary gate to the primary gate isn't designed to hold that kind of load. That said, you may prefer a larger box so you can close the gate, completely, etc. I don't want the added truck length that comes with it, and have no need for the additional length, not to mention that as a rarer option, you'll have fewer accessories available for the "standard" bed truck. Over 90% of the ones I see on the lot in the upper trims (AT4, Denali) are short box.

This! Exactly what must have happened. I used the block heater last night and it didn’t get a full six hours of cold soak yet. Thanks! ??

I have "smelled" the regen cycles in the past, but this thing with the electric cooling fan maxed out when it's 32 degrees out is bizzarre. Now i'm starting to worry that it's something broken.