Waffle34

Thank you phil! I just placed my order. Do you have a write up on how to wire them to the dome light circuit on a 2018 silverado? Also any tips on where/how to mount them on a truck without a center console?

I see harnessdr has wiring kits/lights to add footwell lighting to my 2018 but im confused as which is what. I want bright lights to come on with the dome light but be totally dark when driving. Do i need to buy the ambient light harnesses: https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-silverado-sierra-ambient-light-harness/ or do i need the courtesy lights? https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2022-gm-courtesy-lamp/ thanks in advance!

Alright back to this mess. Absolutely do not buy the one with the sunglass holder and mirror together - it physically fits in the overhead area like a glove and wiring is the same but you cannot fit sunglasses in the holder and not have it bind up - ya know its one purpose. Stupid design. I returned it and bought the one where its separate - it works so much better. 1) the opening is larger and 2) it opens 90* so you can fit glasses and your fingers in there. win win. I was able to find a dealer near me with a Tahoe that had the correct one and the salesman let me sit in it and try my sunglasses lol. I walked in and warned him ive got prolly the dumbest request of the day if not week but he let me do it and was surprised to hear the earlier ones cant fit ****** in them. I was also informed it was NOT the dumbest request or question of even that afternoon lol. Anyways the particular one I got is part# 84187076 off ebay for $70 shipped. I chose it because it was advertized as new (and it is) and easily $25-$75 bucks cheaper than used junkyard specials. PM me and ill send you a link to it and the seller i bought from. I did have to reuse the rear black mounting bracket from my factory console so it fits (pop black tabs out of new console, unscrew black backet from old one, screw it in already cast holes in the new one using i think it was a T10 bit - done) and need to order part# 84435116 plate that only has the door switch, illumination light, and homelink buttons but its on national backorder with none in stock at the time of this posting... Once it comes in just unplug the unused switches and stuff the wiring/connectors up there - no need to buy the specific wire harness. If you have the sunroof and power siding rear window in your truck you can likely make one harness out of your old one and new one (de-pin the new console and repin the old one) or figure out what factory harness you need and replace it. it may even use the same connector and wiring pinout but check first. Ill add pics tomorrow showing the new one.

So followup for anyone finding this thread in the future. Yes the new starter (# 12695760 ) fits and works so much better. I have never heard that truck crank over so fast and strong sounding and i bought it new in 2018. Word of advice: i mixed up some dielectric grease and graphite to make conductive grease which i then slathered between the mating surfaces on all the nut connections (that were only finger tight right outa the box...) and on the bolt threads. I also made sure to smoosh as much as i could into that braided wire. A) it wont ever rust or corrode and B) the graphite fills in any scratches and pits creating a near 100% connection. Once the old starter was out i did clean the negative battery terminal cable to engine block connection (jackasses buried it behind the starter so take it off and clean it while you can get to it - mine was starting to corrode) with a wire brush along with the neg battery terminal to pass frame rail connection with a wire brush. Then put more conductive grease before assembly for same reasons as above. I also removed, cleaned, greased the drivers side frame rail ground (both of these are right where the front tires kick up everything from salt spray to rocks - engineer needs a swift kick to the ass for that idea). I also plan to remove, clean, and apply conductive goo to the block to body connection on the firewall. Also run a dedicated ground from battery negative post to firewall connection with some 8ga wire- Can never have too many grounds especially on these trucks and as far as i can tell there isnt any direct ground from battery to body (where ya know like 14 computers are grounded...) - it always has to go thru something first which is asking for trouble. You can buy conductive grease - Tweco is a brand ive used and works great but its not cheap and i havent found it locally (used in welding applications usually and many places can get it in a day or two). Dielectric grease and generic powdered graphite (which you can find at hobby stores or hardware stores for pinewood derby cars or graphite lock lube) is relatively cheap and you dont need a whole lot to go a long ways.

Motor appeared to be OK inside, more carbon than i expected but likely break-in of the brushes. I did remove the battery cable to engine block ground and it had some starting of oxidation. Also removed the other smaller battery cable to frame ground (thats right behind the front tire where ****** aka salt water gets kicked up wtf gm...) and wirewheeled that clean. Did same on passenger side that goes from the wire harness bundle to frame. Plan is to coat bolt threads (that are exposed lol) and mating surface between ring terminal to frame with conductive grease - Fills in any micro scratches and pits with carbon filled grease so conducts and keeps moisture and oxygen out so it cant rust or corrode anymore. Then coat the outside with fluid film... If im doing all that i want to remove clean and do the same to the braided cable from firewall to wherever that other end goes (anyone know?). Any other known ground issue areas? Absolutely hate weird ground problems on anything. Waiting on replacement starter in the mail...

got my starter out. its part# is 12681473. Braided cable is all green and rusty nuts going from solenoid to motor - Will take the motor apart tomorrow see what internals look like. every parts place says the oem one is 12695760 for my make model year trim engine. Ive heard theres an older style junk version then a redesigned good version. I assume the currently for sale everywhere (12695760) is the updated version (higher part#).

2018 5.3 non flex ~40K miles Replaced battery about 4 months ago due to similar behavior: Saturday woke up went to start my truck, key in turn to run everything lights up as normal. Turn key to start and nothing, hear a faint click but everything else goes dead. Release key everything lights back up normally. Try again and same thing. Wiggle shifter in park, same thing. Try again and fires right up. Drove all over saturday and sunday no issues. Tried to remote start this am and nothing. Tried again and sounds like i got half a crank outa it before nothing. Tried key, same thing as above with no crank but full dash lights. Ran and got my battery tester both old school load resistor and needle style and modern electronic one. Both show 100% charge and good with 12.5V on it. Tried key a few more times and started up but cranked slow. Runs fine- volt gauge shows slightly above 14V on dash. No dash lights or errors. In the past since ive owned the truck and the factory battery like 2-3 times i got the "low battery voltage start immediately" warning as it was cranking but havent seen that since i replaced the battery. I plan to after work today see what i get on the signal wire when trying to crank at the starter and verify connections are clean and tight. BUT google searching sounds like the starters are junk on these. If you were to get a replacement what brand would you go with? OEM? Any recalls or TSB's about this issue?

So i have a 2018 silverado and both factory keys and fobs. Id like to get a 3rd fob at least as i heard (least i thought i did) if you have both factory fobs you can program a 3rd. Is this true or do I need a locksmith to program it?

Small update - I bought the console with the mirror and holder in one. Fits like a glove, wiring is the same. my only problem is the damn sunglass holder doesnt fit regular ol aviators.... cant close the lid...kinda defeats the purpose lol. Going to try to investigate the separate mirror variety - anyone know if it works any better?

SO long story short I put this style console in my silverado: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265753178100?fits=Year%3A2018|Model%3ATahoe&hash=item3de01faff4:g:4DcAAOSwxylj6rXh&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4NRJXL%2FPnZAGPOvBvV4C0oN98Iuf09WeNLBJ1OEtAi2koiFFqBsBr2tnzuVhNJcpqdM1htinEwq0LRyyWAa1mAg1xGJRBIP2fVtuqdaexHhedm%2BQj6RWa0rHXSQArQUvU1y6oYpVXd%2FNUuSDP69hK5wiVQTDGyrwB14myHYDm317N5uEoUDSeIrXHUXOcllvF2G5WastK3vaOofVZfZRSOcrb6XVyHajuxUyUnzdBAm49pB3eICiCdi5467JwKcnKlnio%2BrA7A6UUSlYNli3v33FphoJA8GUH5mXwqVHJqKy|tkp%3ABFBMgsOWl-th its the kind with the rear seat mirror is part of the sunglasses hole. I put my run of the mill aviators in it and it jammed up and didnt let it close (so pointless for sunglasses...) Theres also this style where the mirror is seperate from the sunglass holder: https://www.ebay.com/itm/363103222605?fits=Year%3A2018|Model%3ATahoe&hash=item548aa37b4d:g:B84AAOSwdv9fXALo&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA0EhdSMmWqvXa7%2F3ZptpjT7yOUzcG2MetY07wD68UNnnyRwDF3f%2FnTOmfIKHv66SU1Aw27u73q3S55USvQR5XlC2Le8do57vgF0O7Zafx0SLQeyYoOVIMWoOWLSUOZCJB8R3MtstvyY1BkpIgNnDNZQ5z9TmbEZdyVCK9XWSCFwzDVSJM5TKGQnVt2uBd2NGZR5pttP4R7mxpfl13OYd8WNnP%2BMDv5am0XEqFOIbJEaN8c0Tun8i0EcnKyrLGelpwthDoS2faW0w7xVUSyqm%2Bj3Y%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4LDlpfrYQ Does it hold sunglasses any better???

So originally i wanted to replace my bare bones overhead console (no homelink, no sunroof, no power slider) in my 18 silverado with one with the homelink as the only add on.(gm# 84456893) Thats apparently on backorder and price gougers want $400 on ebay so screw them. So then i stumbled across where someone stuck in a like 2017 tahoe and it has that rear passenger mirror - long story short i had a 2017 tahoe as a loaner while my truck was in the shop and i used that mirror all the time as a blind spot mirror lol. So i think i want to go that route. I noticed there are 2 varieties though - one where the mirror is part of the sunglasses thing and opens in 2 positions(gm# 84187049) , and another where theres 2 separate compartments (gm# 84187076) - i cant tell if that one will fit or not or which one would be better. Leaning towards the one with 2 positions. Yes i know the numbers i linked have sunroof and lift gate knobs, thats where gm# 84435116 comes into play then just remove switches and swap homelink over and whatnot (i THINK this will work) Anyone have any insight? Are the uhh backbone of the consoles all the same physically? /guts/pinouts all the same between them all and can just leave switches out?

i had this problem, ended up lemon lawing the truck. gm supposedly fixed it as i found the vin # and pics of the truck for sale in Wisconsin lol. yours isnt black by any chance with a chrome rear bumper is it?

2018 silverado LT 5.3L crew cab z71 4x4 ~39K miles. SO last week after the truck was sitting for about 4-5 days i get a message thru the myChevrolet app on my phone my antilock brake system needs service. I thought weird, i go to start it and even before putting the key in i notice the pedal is rock hard and wasnt when i parked it. Also weird. Start the truck and pedal sinks a bit to normal position but service antilock brake system pops up and i swear i hear the abs activate for a split second not moving. drive it carefully down the road and get to a stop sign going mayeb 5mph and abs activates for a split second. Does it again a few miles later and same message pops up. pedal feels fine and stops fine. Shut the truck off at my destination fire it back up and no errors nothing on drive home. Drove it every day for over a week now and prolly put several hundred miles on it from slow stops, interstate exit braking, to damn near abs activating once due to a moron. No issues no lights no warnings. Last night while parked again my phone app says service antilock brake system. Start the truck and go for a quick drive and no issues no warnings no lights... im not sure if its just a placebo but ever since the initial warning and firm pedal described above the brakes MIGHT feel like they are stronger? like they work better given the same foot pressure? I know about the recall on some 14-18 silverados but that usually involves brake booster issues and hard pedal while driving. So did they shove some OTA update to it that made it mad? Is it possible to have a code set and not light up a warning? I have a code reader with live data i was going to see if i can observe every wheel speed sensor output at slow speeds as ive had older vehicles get wonky when a speed sensor starts to go...

Hmm id really like adjustable ones as im usually empty or its lightish but bulky stuff. I do plan to get a 18 ft car hauler trailer id need to tow so i want the ability to stiffen things up when i need to. Have you towed any with the 4800s?

So when ive got weight in the bed the truck rides so much better naturally. Years ago i had an s10 and put a set of the like $70 air shocks on it you air up or down with a tire valve and thin plastic tubing. No weight in the bed I left em at zero or 5lbs of air and it rode waaay smoother than the factory style shocks. Has anyone done this to a crew cab silverado? If so what kit did you use?

how do you replace the trim? i see theres a torx screw that might hold it on...

yea i tried finding the factory tires on tirerack but no dice. the BFko2's in load range C are about 46 lbs a tire. Closest i can find on tirerack are about 36-38 lbs for the factory goodyear wranglers. looked at general grabber at/x and they are still 45 lbs each. i did run the steel wheels with the factory load range E tires for a few months and it didnt affect mpg that much (but we were on winter gas too) - those are about the same 45 lbs each now that i think about it. kinda slipped more in the snow. While im not super concerned about mpg it would be nice to know. Ive added the tow mirrors and did a 2" front level kit. neither of those affected mpg too much. I do plan to get an 18 ft open car hauler in the near future to tow a project truck around - trailer and project combined will be close to 6000#. 1-2 mpg drop wont be the end of the world but if its 5-10 like some people are saying elsewhere thats going to be a big deal....

so im sure youve seen those retro silverados around online. I got a set of the steel wheels already sandblasted and powder coated. They of course are 17" steel rims. I have the usual aluminum 18" rims with 265/65R18 goodyear tires on my truck now. I am planning to get BF KO2's for the 17" steel rims in 265/70R17 which is virtually the same diameter and circumference. One less revolution per mile so meh. I do drive alot of highway miles and curious how much of a MPG hit the KO2's will cause. I can pretty easily get 22-24 mpg highway now. Anyone got any real world figures? Even just staying factory size on the same rims not necessarily doing my exact swap.

do the beads beat up the TPMS sensors?

SO i plan to get a set of the worktruck rims powder coated so when i get tires put on i need to use stick on weights - is there enough room between caliper and rim for stick on weights? Factory they used the clip on rim lip style which would scratch the crap outa the powdercoating...

i really wanted to find the old 70s steel rims you can snap dog dish hubcaps to but noooo noone makes them. Need min diameter of 17" to clear the brake calipers. I eventually want to get BF KO2's on the rims i have.

Yea still no luck, managed to sneak the pos clamp on directly to the battery and that allowed it to blink yellow at me which means its not charging. Gave up and bought the harbor freight Viking 4A auto charger. Hooked battery back up to the truck, clipped that thing on for standard battery winter mode (as it got to a warm 17*F today) and let it charge. Fully charged and should be good to go. I think that stanley trickle charger is just junk and not rated the best review wise (i got it black friday like 2 years ago for $5 so eh. Can always salvage the clamps from it)

Going to try taking the neg terminal off and trying the maintainer again this AM.

Hmm could be remote start, my 18's goes down if i just sit and idle with it running normally. But yea the remote start i mean most of the truck is dead including the cluster till you stick the key in so it may not have those modules woken up yet if you do alot of remote starting.

so its a 2018 silverado LT with 5.3L. Not experiencing any battery issues but its been parked for 2 weeks while we get this massive salt dumping off the roads. Winter beaters can turn white all they want but trying to keep this truck as nice as i can for as long as i can. Id wash it if all the car washes weren't closed due to below 0*F temps. Anyways i wanted to hook it up to a trickle charger/maintainer. Ive had this barely used Stanley 1amp charger/maintainer - perfect. Let my neighbor borrow it to top off a new battery inside his apartment a few days ago before he installed it so i know it works. So its got 3 lights: one red for wrong polarity, a green light when its full, and a yellow charge light. Normally, hook up battery, plug into wall and yellow charge light comes on. So the truck has that circuit board thing blocking the pos terminal but has that red cap your supposed to jump from. Hook red to red black to black like normal, plug charger in and got no lights on charger. (truck still has dome light, bright headlights, flashes parking lights with key fob so its got enough voltage) Where it gets weird is disconnect red clamp the charger light comes on for charging....hook red back up unclip black, still no lights Disconnect both clamps no lights as it should.. Im going out on a limb and guessing its my maintainer that's not happy for some reason. Maybe the truck is drawing more than an amp sitting there with the hood open? Could the intelligent maintainer be interfering with the intelligent battery circuit board on the truck? Anyone ever had an issue with smart chargers/maintainers on the terminals? Id undo the ground terminal so its just the bare battery post and hook it up to try that but got too cold n dark - how long can the truck sit before radio presets and such get forgotten? (Or is there a time limit?) Sorry for the long post...