Sask Farmboy

When you order the truck, $60 Cdn or $50 US for a set of 4 is a heck of a deal!

You won't burst any fittings. The grease-able steering linkage joints are all made to let grease to ooze out, otherwise, you couldn't get the grease in. Pump grease in until it oozes out. That way you know the old grease is flushed out of the wearing parts of the joint and only new grease is in there. The same goes for grease-able u-joints, grease-able sliding driveshaft yokes, etc.

If you want to make the connection waterproof, use a little grease on the terminals (I use dielectric grease) which will prevent all moisture from entering the terminals. To finish off, you can use heat shrink tubing around the plugged in connector. If you ever need to unplug the connector, just cut the heat shrink off.

Here is a notice on https://www.gmupfitter.com/ that came up immediately when I accessed the website. UPDATES AND NEW INFORMATION Upfitter Switch (9L7) Service Parts Retrofit Kits It has recently discovered that there is a problem with the list of contents for the Upfitter SERVICE PARTS retrofit switch “kits” for vehicles that were not ordered or built with the 9L7 option. The discrepancy has been corrected and new part numbers are being generated. The kits are temporarily on “hold” until they can be properly assembled with all the components required to perform the retrofit. Stay tune for updates coming soon. This situation does impact the kits that are shipped with the vehicle when the 9L7 option was ordered. NEWLY RELEASED BULLETINS: 161 - Next Generation Body Style Snowplow Jumper Harness Install 165 - Fuel Filler Elbow Assembly `Service Body’ Installation MD 164 - Overhead Auxiliary (Upfitter) Switches (RPO UEH) 163 - Fuel Tank strategy and Auxiliary Tap Upfit interface MD 162 - Rear Chassis Electrical Harness Attachments – 3500 Chassis Cabs VEHICLE SPEC. INFO. Upfitters looking for various model option information, vehicle weights (both curb and available payload) should use the Online Order Guide accessible from Resource page of the GM Fleet website. Select the vehicle application and Click on `Model and Option Weights' located in the lower left corner on specific model pages. (https://www.gmfleet.com/guides) I'm not sure how old the notice is as there was no date attached to it.

I'm sorry, I just can't help myself -- Larry is the cable guy!

This is really going to sound weird but check the ground cable from the frame to the engine. Make sure there is nothing ( no paint or undercoat, etc) between the cable ends and the frame or block. Grease there is OK and actually preferred to keep corrosion out. I once found a poor connection here that burned up the power steering hose on an IH tandem that I was working on. When cranking the engine, the ground circuit had to go thru the PS hose to get to the block because of the bad ground cable connection. Had to replace the pump, hose and gearbox because of the arcing damage. I know it is a long shot but it is also something that is easy to check. Also make sure the battery grounds to the block is good.

My first chime in for this topic. My 2020 Denali DRW is being built in 2 weeks so I will be checking it out closely. I used to be a Chevy tech and finding stuff like this was my life. I'll get my stethoscope out & will be all over this engine like a monkey on a muffin if there are any noises. If you guys can let me know what the oil pressures are that you have been seeing at different temps and RPM's, that would also be a help because I'm curious to hear that the noise was less after the new oil pump was installed. Also state whether the oil pres reading is from the dash gage, dash digital readout, scan tool or a master gage installed into the oil gallery somewhere. There is always an explanation when something is different than it has been before.