Time2gofishing1980

Towing will wear the rear pads and specifically the inboard pad faster. It’s documented with GM

21qts ESPx2, 2 qts amsoil 0w20 diesel oil, 2 STP S45008XL & 1 AC Delco UPF66r oil filters and 2 TP1015 fuel filters local pickup in Manchester NH sold truck

I encourage you to look into an AlldataDIY or Mitchel1 subscription. Both very adorable and exceptionally helpful. Alldata doesn’t list a service for the CV joint itself, only the half-shaft. It looks like maybe a $60 diff in parts cost between CV joint and full half shaft from what I saw. I’d personally just replace the full assembly.

Dealer replaced charge air cooler under warranty. Coolant level in charge air surge tank and primary surge tank were significantly down.

I’ve seen 2 temp spikes in the last few weeks. The first was when I got on the on-ramp for the highway maybe 2 weeks ago. I floored it and saw the temp spike almost 50% past the 210*mark. No lights or warnings came on and the temp dropped after I released the accelerator. 2nd time was this morning. I was cruising on the highway at 75mph. 38* ambient air temps. Saw a notice on the DIC say something to the effect of “AC disabled due to excessive coolant temperature” and the temp was about 50% past the 210* mark. I disengaged cruised and slowed to 60mph as I moved towards the breakdown lane across traffic. The temp normalized before I made it to the left lane. truck has about 56k and for the most part has been running well. I do get an occasional p3196 cel that the dealership has not diagnosed as the light turns off before it makes it to the service appointment. any thoughts? Kind Regards, joe

What up. 2020 Sierra 1500 3.0. Have about 51k on it. I’ve been getting a DIC “ new brake pads detected, reset brake pad monitor?” Message intermittently. No new pads have been installed. Furthermore, I’m getting pretty significant grinding from the front brakes thought monitor shows 61% life remaining on both front and rear pads. I looked into the monitoring and saw how it uses 3 diff contact points in the pad life to estimate wear. 51k seems like a lot of miles to still have 61% life remaining. Also seems suspect that both front and rear have the same life remaining. I’d expect front to wear more quickly. what have you seen for brake life in your trucks? Anyone experienced a similar issue? Will probably order new pads and rotors and replace the front brakes EDIT: inboard rear pads were totally toasted. The rear left, which has the pad life sensor, was 100% gone. The metal backing was grinding into the rotor. The passenger side inboard pad was almost totally gone. GM states frequent towing and heavy loads accelerates the inboard pad wear. I tow a bass boat frequently and have a plow on it with 800lbs of ballast in the winter. the outboard pads had maybe 30% remaining. The electronic pad life monitor said 59% remaining on the rear. lesson learned. Don’t trust the indicator because it doesn’t work. haven’t looked at the front yet but I suspect I should replace them also.

I’m pretty certain that suck air down through the seat, not blow up up.

Dealership found a TSB and applied a software update. Cleared code and good to go.

2020 3.0 dmax with 38k threw p1339 yesterday. No ill effect other than disabling the remote start while cel is on. seems to point to glow plug error. No trouble cold starting even down to 0*. Dealership didn’t have an appointment till the 25. Will update after.

Magnusson Moss act prevents OEMs from invaliding warranty due to aftermarket parts. OEM would need to prove the aftermarket part caused a failure to deny warranty coverage. They simply can’t blanket deny warranty claims based on aftermarket installation.

Looks like the Mobil stations have efficient. I can start hitting them. It’s on my commute to work.

No apology necessary! Knowledgeable people like you are what make these forums valuable. None of those diesel brands are familiar to this way. Standards up here are Shell, Sunoco, Mobile and Irving. Goes to “off brand” real quick after that. I’ll put an order in for Amsoil and will get their filter if available also. Regarding air filter, do you recommend an OEM replacement or K&N drop in? There also are a few “cold air intake” options now to the tune of $350-400.

Hi! This post really took off . Lots of words and ****** it don’t understand… I haven’t changed the oem air filter yet. I certainly can do so if you believe it can help. I run oem dexosD bought from local dealerships along with the oem filter. I change Oil when the oil life monitor his sub 15%. I run Amsoil in my Indian motorcycle and can make the switch to Amsoil if you believe it beneficial. I almost always fill up at a local Shell truck stop. This is a high volume diesel station. When I say almost always, I mean 90% of the time I hit this diesel station. I do not add anything to the fuel during the summer or winter. The truck has a light duty plow in the winter. The plow and mount weighs about 500lbs and I load about 800lbs of ballast in the bed. During the summer it pulls a boat frequently weighing about 2600lbs. I just did another oil change at 34k but didn’t capture oil for analysis. I’ll grab some from my next change.

I’ve used them in the past but never did ceramic. Last I knew ceramic was pretty expensive.

i installed the kit. Very happy with it although I definitely need about 1.5” in the back. Where did you get your blocks? The tires have a diameter of 34.4”. I’ll probably get the speedo corrected. Is there a preferred module? fuel economy went goodbye the lift and LT tires but that was anticipated

I just installed the stage 1 Icon kit front and rear. It’s real solid now. Used to rock going over speed bumps at an angle. Now nice and firm. Not hard, but controlled.

Might be worth a call to the parts dept along with your VIN to try to verify part #s

I ordered the stage 1 Icon kit and some LT275/65r20 tires for my 2020 diesel crew cab std bed 1500. Does the stage 1 kit sit level or does it retain factory rake? I tow frequently and want to maintain the same rake as factory. If blocks are needed, what’s the recommended block? Also didn’t go with UCAs as the only off-road the truck sees are dirt roads to boat ramps while towing. edit: also, will the Speedo need correcting? Thanks for your input

I called them this morning. They claim it's due to the weight. I pointed out the 3.0 is lighter than the 6.2 but the gentleman was confident in his answer. They did state their existing coilovers were fine for the 6.2. They started they were coming out with a set for the 3.0. I dunno. I think I might order them anyway.

I blew a tire and will take the opportunity to get larger tires all around. I have a friend who can get good pricing through Rough Country so I was looking into their lift options. Their 2" coilover is listed as "not diesel compatible". Anyone have thoughts why they might be incompatible? I'm not aware of any difference in the factory suspension and the 3.0 is equal to or slightly less heavy than the 6.2. I intend on calling RC in the morning but thought I'd get some opinions here also. These are the coilovers in question. https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-vertex-coilovers-689018.html?find=2020-gmc-sierra-1500-4wd-740563

Per the Magnusson-Moss act, no. Not unless the part causes a failure.

I had roughly 6k miles on the oil and a little under 20k miles on the truck. This sample was from the 3rd oil change completed. Edit: the truck is currently equipped with a plow and 800lbs of sand in the bed. It also frequently tows a boat.

Wind-chill was -16F the past 2 mornings. Started w/ remote start with zero issues not plugged in. Love this truck.

I had about 30% remaining. The weather was decent in NH and I'd rather change it when the temp is above 30*. I thought it was fairly clean given almost 20k miles and around 940 gallons of diesel. I almost exclusively fill at a Shell station that has diesel lanes for rigs. It seems to be both high volume and high quality fuel.

Google tells me Yes. Personally, I don't know. My 3/8 torque wrench is set in NM