DuRsT

I had Toyo RT's on my F250 and loved them, but I will admit they they did spin a bit when the roads were wet after I got some miles on them. I always just assumed it was because the truck had nearly 1000ft/lb of torque.

Truck looks great like that.

Very nice solution. My '17 F250 had a button in the bed that turned on the bed led's which was awesome. It is still my favorite truck ever, just won't fit in my garage.

How are you guys correcting your speedo's?

I will give some different advice. I would leave at least one of the flappers. They are there to mitigate undesirable sounds coming from DFM and those sounds become very noticeable with a louder exhaust. I couldn't honestly tell much of a difference in volume between no flappers and adding one back, but could tell that some of the DFM silliness went away when it was added back.

Have to agree, I was kind of looking forward to them coming out myself but ended up pulling the trigger on the Sierra beforehand because I got pissed with Ford over the OHC design flaws that have been in place for YEARS. The old 6.2 was one of the best engines they made, and the 5.0 was not a bad engine at all either but was lacking low-end grunt for a truck IMO. That 7.3 should be interesting given that they are returning to a pushrod motor, and tempting to anyone that likes 'old-school'.

I have to agree that when tooling around town it makes the truck feel sluggish until you mash the go-pedal. Then it wakes up and accelerates very, very well for a truck of this size. To me, adding an aftermarket exhaust exacerbates all of this because you can now hear all of the different 'modes' the engine is going through with 10 different gears and varying degrees of cylinder participation depending upon load response. All in all, it is something I have to get accustomed to as this is the way of the future, the linear and confident pull of a V8 truck pulling on all cylinders all the time is something from the past.

I was thinking the same thing. I've never seen anyone this passionate about DFM lol

Good question, wondered that myself. Currently the 2019's are around 70% of those polled, 2020's are 15.4% of those polled.

Glad to see everyone voting on this one. I do wish that if someone voted "no leak" and later experienced one they could change their answer.

Yeah, I don't usually fill them out very much. I'm in the same area.

Thanks man, just trying to give data to the masses

Is that the first digit of the VIN?

Mods.........can we get this stickied?

Ok, I added some fields to help narrow down the results some but you almost need small if/then application to really do it correctly.

Hey Mike, looks like we could be neighbors bud.

Agree, it would tough to get but so much granularity when setting up the poll. It would take multiple questions to get what we need.

Actually created a Poll to record this in the interests of statistics.

This is simply a poll to record overall numbers of those reporting a rear window leak and those without.

We should create a poll on this thread so that it can be easily seen how many people on the forum have this issue. Can we do that with this forum?

I've personally had my eye on some Fuel Kicker's but can't stomach pulling the trigger on a new set of wheels when my current tires have ~400 miles on them. I think they would look great with the Red Quartz.

I'm not usually a fan of that color wheel, but your truck looks awesome man. Congrats!

Great video find, bumping it TTT so other new members can find this easily for comparison purposes.

The only concern I see for the lower spacer is the clearance with the CV axle/boot.

Interesting. My truck has/had the same issue, but my findings were different....exactly the opposite actually. After reading this thread I went out and popped out the SD card, found the write protect tab already in the position away from the pins. 1. Found write lock tab in position away from pins 2. Slid tab down to be closer to pins, reinserted 3. Powered truck on, got the same message 4. Went to NAV, and hit ok on the warning message about initializing 5. Powered truck off 6. Powered truck back on, warning message did not display 7. Powered truck back off 8. Removed SD card and moved write lock tab to position farther away from pins, reinserted 9. Powered truck on, initially received a message stating that SD card had been removed, went away and GPS worked normally 10. Powered truck off and back on 11. GPS initialized with no error messages whatsoever My goal here was to recreate the issue once I found what resolved it, which I was unable to do. It is almost as though you have to remove the card, move the write lock tab, and confirm the message on initialization and it doesn't matter which position the write lock tab resides. An odd one for sure.