RadoPhan

I have the ProXS, flapper still on and all resonators covered with no drone at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Bump with pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Soooooo are you still getting rid of yours? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! They are 295/70/R18 so close to a 35” but slightly narrower. The rims will be perfectly fine with 18 offset and fits but I’m not sure if you’ll rub without a lift. With the 18 offset, you can’t fit aftermarket upper control arms which I would recommend getting if you lift your front end even just a little. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://instagram.com/0fx2gv?igshid=htulp6c6gbvx But I still have my original one that I never put on if you want that one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes this increases your risk for the factory UCA failure. There’s people out there that have similar setups and it hasn’t failed yet. But does this mean it will definitely fail, no but there’s a higher risk and for me adding any risk to your own safety and thousands of dollars in damages isn’t worth an extra couple hundred dollars to get the aftermarket UCA. That’s the main reason I went with ReadyLift and the new UCA. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you post the link with issues? What are the issues? I have the RL UCAs and so far good but it’s only been 2k miles Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks like you have a level kit on the bottom. I circled the part on your picture. Can you take another picture underneath? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks to those on here for sharing info to help me make some decisions. Final product was to level the front with ReadyLift 1.75” so I can replace the UCA since I’ve heard of the stock UCA failure and I didn’t want to take that risk. But with that, I couldn’t run my stock Trailboss wheels anymore since it’ll rub the new UCAs. Ended up with Method 309s 0 offset and kept my 295/70/18 Falkens. Here’s a comparison. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just cut the box instead if you want to keep the factory mats intact. Here’s mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes get them! Best steps in my opinion. Only suggestion is get better lighting. I added led strips on mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve never had a vehicle with auto 4wd and didn’t plan on using it much anyways. I’ve typically had trucks with just the normal 4wd so I guess it should be fine putting it in 4wd manually when I need it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes very true but for some reason they don’t say the same for the 1.75” lift. Here’s ReadyLift’s response on their site. The 2” lift is slightly higher in the front but adds an additional 1” in the rear so not sure what makes it more prone to issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you pull up the kits directly on the ReadyLift site, expand the Details and it will say it but only on the 2” lift. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad I could share. Yeah it makes a big difference going from 6 ply to 10 ply Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are 295/70/R18. I coming from BFG KO2 tires on my last 2 trucks and swore by them but I have to say these are pretty good. Only reason I gave this a go is because KO2 didn’t come in this size and there was a deal buy 3 get one free. It worked out! Super quiet, aggressive look and so far good on dirt. Haven’t tried it in mud or sand yet. They do ride stiffer than stock but that’s because it’s E rated so any E rated tires will be stiffer regardless of make/model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just an update and thanks again for all of help and advice which made me go this route instead. I didn’t take into factor of the size of the mounting base pad as well so the Method 312s were too risky to try. I was able to get the Method 309 18x9 0 offset to fit with no spacers so I feel good about it since this will for sure clear the ReadyLift UCA once that is installed. Here’s some pics now without the ReadyLift SST installed yet. Had to take out the front mud flaps for now since they were rubbing really bad. But will probably put them back once the leveling kit is installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FYI if anyone else was wondering if these will fit. The only size for the new Silverados that will work without a spacer is 18x9 0 offset. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes adhesive is just as good as OEM and cut precisely Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually think they are better quality than the OEM chrome ones. For some reason I always think chrome plastic is cheesy. For this interested, I decided not to install these. Got them from some guy on Instagram for $95. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Decided to take the easy route. Replicas produced in matte black so no paint required and already has adhesive on the back. I plastidipped it but I just hate the texture and how you can smoothly wipe it with a microfiber towel without it getting stuck to it. eBay for only $37 shipped for both. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The biggest difference will be E rated tires. It rides stiffer so you’ll definitely feel it. As far as the weight, I don’t feel too much of it. I have the Falkens and they are heavier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have 4 BORA custom spacers being made and shipped by next week. It’ll be hub to wheel exact fitment for the Silverado 1500s 78.1 to 106.25. Unfortunately I no longer need these and it’s already being made. These fit several of the Method and KMC wheels to eliminate vibrations and gives you almost 1/4” space which is the most you can safely go and still be able to use factory studs. Paid $170 for these and willing to part ways for $100 shipped for all 4. Message me if you are interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk