Who knows. I don't believe anything they say unless I can see it for myself. The sales people and service people all have to attend the same "How to lie to the customer with a straight face" class when hired, no matter the manufacturer or dealer. Trust, but verify, has usually proven my cynical nature to be correct in past conversations and with dealer personnel.
If the 15 seconds is indeed a bypass to a timer, that in it's self maybe a clue to the reason for the timer. No more parking in an attached garage or enclosed space and accidentally leaving the car running, possibly resulting in a death. Liability. A deliberate override is needed to keep the vehicle running and becomes the consumer failsafe, hence why no documentation in the owners manual.
Someone mentioned a few pages back about a new style window frame, but time has not proven it to be a solution. Rumor has it that GM has now deemed the T1 platform leakage problem to indeed be in the "rocket science" category and have requested help from NASA and JPL.
2/20 LTZ build, slider, no visible frame crack yet and no signs of a leak, but with an asterisk attached. Installed a A.R.E. cap on my truck and did not want to have to deal with the "potential leak" problem down the road, that has been running for 170+pages and still seems of no concern and unresolved by GM. Afraid I would eventually get the dreaded leak and have to have the cap pulled and stored just for the window repair. I did the Permatex 81730 flowable silicone suggested by another member in some earlier posts. I had thought about regular viscosity silicone but decided on the flowable type to seep into every nook and cranny possible. Modified the tip to be flat and to fit between the spoiler edge and the glass, with a hole on the bottom face and the end tip intact. Taped up everything as Kclyatt described and added some tape on the vertical seams at the top of the plastic /glass because it runs everywhere, hence flowable. Did 3 seperate applications about 3-4 hrs apart, across the entire top of the glass, starting in the middle and working to the left and right. The separate applications allowed the silicone to set somewhat and allowed me to build up and fill the entire void to the top of the glass edge and down around the corners and down the sides for about 6 inches. I think I used 4-5 of the 1.5 oz tubes and used the same modified tip on each tube during the application. Have no idea if it has helped, but figured it was worth a shot compared to some of the leak repair nightmares that others have reported . Think I will order some of that cord for the spoiler front seam that someone was kind enough to post a picture of and the Amazon link. Good Luck guys and girls.
2020 LTZ 6.2 Silverado More of an observation vs a cool feature. The lowest mpg I can achieve when I stomp the pedal is 2mpg and the highest mpg is 99mpg when I take my foot off the pedal, according to the display. LOL The HUD is a cool feature. Sorry, just bored in Illinois under current lockdown.
I have had these in channel type on since March. No complaints other than a somewhat sharp edge, so I hit all the shades with a 400 grit paper to soften the edge. I have a 1500. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/egg-571691
Who knows. GM seems to gives and take without notice. No notice or I missed it when the ordered truck came in with no entry handle buttons on the rear doors of the crew cab. Buttheads saved a few pennies for buttons on a loaded truck.
I have not done the installation yet but here is my plan. Inside the bed on the driver side I will have an Anderson plug mounted. I have a cap on the truck so it is protected from the weather. One Anderson lug for the hot will be a #6 ga and the ground will be a Anderson #2 lug with 2 -6ga black ground/neg wires into the lug. One black ground neg wire will run to the engine compartment with the positive cable and connect at the neg jump stud on fender. The 2nd black ground neg wire will be much shorter and mount to a bolt into the frame directly below. In looking for a nonexistent convenient bolt connection, I have decided to just drill and tap for a mounting bolt into the frame for a 2nd ground point. I will remove the undercoating and use a serrated star washer with the bolt for a good connection and then coat the connection with Daubert X-121B. This redundant ground with a tapped bolt connection into the frame worked for 12 years on my previous truck so I will just do the same this time. The original wire harness was 8 ga and I left it installed on the old truck and worked fine for 12 years. When I checked into a replacement 8ga harness from the original winch manufacturer., it was 50% more than a 6ga harness from a different winch manufacturer, hence the 6 ga on this install.
Picked up a 2020 CC LTZ in March and traded in an 05 2500 so my only experience with seat coolers is the wife's Hyundai. Compared to the Hyundai, I would rate the new Silverado seats at a 4-5. Anyone know if the Silverado has just the seat or both seat and back cooling fans? If it is supposed to have back cooling, then I would change my rating to a 2. The A/C is cold enough to hang meat in there. LOL
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