For reference, here is my tire clearance with the RL UCA (Tire specs in above post). Note that the outter lugs on the tire are not offset in the image so clearance is less than shown. I've articulated the suspension pretty well to check for rubbing and haven't caught any marks yet but it is certainly close. I'm convinced on this size tire, it will 100% come down to actual tire selection and not all 285/75/18's will fit without wheel spacers.
No good ones but here you go. 285/75/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers Stock 18s No wheel spacers Zero Trimming. Zero way to go any wider of a tire without hitting the Ready lift UCAs unless wheel spacers are added, which will probably cause more rubbing issues. Only rubbing as mentioned above (Slight rub going over a bump at full lock) Truck has a 1 to 1.25" rake with the 2" SST.
The kit is designed for the AT4/TB trucks. Anything over 2" (stock TB/AT4 height) you need new UCA's. Facebook you'll run across enough posts with UCA failures where it's cheap insurance to do it once. Only have about 5k miles on mine since i did it last month, but so far so good. No issues/complaints. You will be limited on tire width if you want to run stock wheels with new UCA's. I'm on 285/75/18's that barely squeeze around the new UCA. TireRack has the 2" kit for $510 + Shipping. Lowest price by far i found any where. 2" will leave your rear high by about an inch. There is also a 1.75" kit if you want the truck level and not raise the rear.
What are you talking about? I know this is probably going to be shocking, but not everyone needs a 2 speed transfer case.... Guess what though, I wanted a 2 speed transfer case and I made sure as ****** my truck had it before I bought it.
Parts list: 84688687 Multi Switch (This is black, may need a different part # depending on your truck interior color) 84487354 Knee Bolster (This is black with push button start, may need a different part # depending on your truck color and start switch) 84497098 Harness 84524205 Battery Cable 84669070F Block Kit Cheapest place i could find is GM Parts outlet. If you create an account, put everything in your shopping cart and leave it for a few hours, you might get a small discount code in your email. Talking less than $10 but something is better than nothing. Edit: Install instructions https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1314/UI Bulletin 153_wip.pdf?fbclid=IwAR12yV0aVzAvxUd4D6KRhXzRUPlg4lsOH9qewE8nzmZjvBm2KVo3g0NJgto Thread on the forum about them: Here is a good write up i found after i installed...
I would not level a TB/AT4 without new control arms. Someone recently had a UCA failure with 2.5" (non TB/AT4) either on here or FB. Could have been a different root cause, but seems the UCA are the weak link when leveling and not worth the risk.
Just finished installing my upfitter switches today and finished the hardwire of the radar detector. Chose to use the new dash piece as the template and cut it in instead of tearing about everything. A sharp exacto knife makes it a breeze and well worth the time savings. Worse case i figured, I screw it up and then just replace anyhow. The biggest pain was getting the wire fished thru the fire wall, which knowing how to do it now it is a breeze. Coat hanger made it so much easier. I had it all wired in and then no power at the radar detector, switch lit up. Turns out, there are 2 loose blue wires in the new wiring loom...Once i realized this it was an easy fix and quick to wrap up.
J A K, did you have the Line-X extra? My '11 F150 i sold when i got my AT4 had the bedliner sprayed in sometime in 2011. Zero fade when i sold with the extra last year. I've had fading issues on past trucks and different bed liner products, but the product worked well overall. The Toyota above had the extra applied as well, i only kept it for 3-4 years after finishing the build that but never saw any signs of fading although that stayed in a garage out of the sun unlike my truck.
They can custom tint to oem color. I would do that with the “extra” so it doesn’t fade. personally I wouldn’t do the rockers especially if you’re in a state with salted roads. If it gets below it will help promote rust. Saying that, it can come out well, I’ve done it before I just wouldn’t do it again, most of my issues with it is any rubs or good hits it will look bad or peel away from the body. Probably a non issue from a daily driver and could be touched up if ever needed. Inside out outside is line-x. Outside is a oem Toyota red for the fj40. The door is after a really good hit to a rock but I had others over the vehicle that occurred from much lighter bumps.
GM Parts outlet. At least from the email they sent, they had to order all of the parts and that caused a week or two delay in shipping. Edit: FYI, if you throw the parts in your cart after creating an account, you'll get some sort of discount. It was minimal. GM Parts outlet was the cheapest on all the parts required that i could find.
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