Taco_Ninja

Unless you have a 2500, the only options I've been able to find are transfer tanks. Subbing to the thread, hopefully someone has found something. Gas 6.2 here and would love a larger fuel tank.

I second this, your truck should pick up the sensors automatically. Definitely easy to break if not careful.

Thanks for sharing, been curious about this myself. I'll be pulling the trigger soon also.

One additional consideration is if they are cross compatible. If you move or don't have the Krown place available, I believe more shops support the FF.

Curious also, I almost pulled the trigger on the Fluid Film and have been doing research for a while. I will likely will go for the CRC myself based on the Project farm (YouTube) video on coatings. Subbed for info. The second link has a guy that does a post 1 year evaluation on FF and has some good information. Seems like Fluid Film does dry off and becomes easier to work with but don't have first hand experience myself. Hope this helps and good luck with your search.

Love this, I had to trade in my 4Runner for work reasons and miss the simplicity of my OL rig. I have a trailer but sometimes I just want to pack up and go with a light foot print without all the hassle of finding a site, hook-ups, reservations, etc etc. I've found bars to support the RTT but will need to swap out the toolbox for something with a lower profile to make it work. Thought about the Decked system but open to ideas. Subbed for future ideas.

I have the Du-ha also. GMC/Chevy makes an OEM one, seemed to be the two most popular when I was looking. I have an extra one I'm selling if you're close to DFW.

I apologize, I didn't mean to mislead anyone. Inventory in the DFW area seems to be short and I work closely with a GM and Toyota dealership. Definitely a case by case situation and have been seeing stories about dealer markups and people selling used vehicles for more than new. Good luck with your search, looks like you have a lot of good insight here.

I believe it's nationwide at this point. Many have posted that they are selling their trucks for more than what they paid new. Hate to speculate but I fear it will get worse before it gets better.

I assume you're talking about running boards when you say steps. If so, a better way would be to measure the overall diameter of the wheel (or rim) +tire. When you say 18" or 22", you are referring only to the rims and are not accounting for the tires. Generally larger wheels have skinnier tires and vice versa so that the overall size remains roughly the same. Unless you go aftermarket wheels and tires, overall tire size from factory will not make much of a difference. You also mentioned a new truck. If you're considering a new truck overall, there are many more factors to consider to include new body style, trim levels, and different suspension setups. **For example, an AT4 Sierra is going to ride higher than a SLT. AT4 has 18" or 20" wheels but overall tire size will stay similar. The suspension will play a larger part than either of the wheel selection that comes from the dealership. **On the opposite extreme, you've probably seen the Jeeps with massive tires on them. They usually run on 17" wheels but the tires are much larger in comparison and will likely play a larger role in vehicle height than the suspension (or a combination of both) that will make getting in much more difficult. All this to say, it's hard to say without more info.

I've had a similar experience like Robby, good response and too many horror stories with the AFM to not hedge that bet. However, my experience with MPG is quite opposite and mine has gone down. I have the 6.2 with 10sp and it has made my day to day driving much more enjoyable. I do a lot of city driving and likely have a heavier foot than most. I don't use race mode on mine but keep the Pulsar at level 3. For me the Range was fine but would have had to combine it with the in-dash auto start/stop disabler and Pedal Commander. I pulled them out and replaced with the Pulsar. Individually, they all worked as advertised but wanted a cleaner solution. @MikeDP What is the helicopter noise you are referring to?

I had Kings on my previous vehicle, a 4runner 5th gen. Loved them, worth every penny. Ran them with Icon delta joint UCAs, eventually replaced them with JBA UCAs (similar to Cognito's design). Didn't have the tools to replace the pressed in joints and would cost a couple hours of labor to get them rebuilt on top of the parts that needed replacing, about $400-500 total to rebuild. I rebuilt them once and sold them as a carcass when they needed a second. Sucked because I take pride in doing most of my mods myself but didn't make sense for me at the time. Older (and wiser?) me likes the Cognito UCAs with bolt-on ball joints for easy replacement. Quieter than uniballs and easier to replace. The deltas were quiet but rebuilds were costly. Also doesn't hurt that every part on the UCA is greasible and rebuildable. Fwiw, I'm hearing from my peeps that Kings are pushing a 40 week lead time. Not confirmed or validated in any way, this is from friends who have tried to order recently (I hear it's a supply chain issue.)

Pics as promised. I think the 2nd and 3rd photo do it better justice but the pics don't show enough detail to be helpful. Kind of a satin finish up close. This is the Shadow Black kit.

I used it to do my 18" AT4 wheels. I like the way they turned out and think they are holding up well. It does seem to provide a better finish than the normal plasti-dip. It goes on thinner than the normal stuff so take your time and go slow. I layered it like I would spray paint and went a tad heavy on the final coat to get the wet look finish. You can tell a difference up close but negligible from a normal viewing distance. Is it worth the difference? Maybe. Keep in mind, it cost almost twice as much...almost. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.

Icon has been good to work with and they know their stuff. I haven't ordered any ICON stuff recently but ran a bunch of their gear on previous vehicles, off-roaders, and rock crawler type. I would imagine they are confident about what they say, otherwise it would open themselves up to a whole world of liability damages. These written responses are particularly tough to argue. Personally, I would keep an eye on the ABS sensor wires, brake lines, CV boot (the rubber part) stretching/tearing and any other wires/sensors and call it a day. Those CV axle internals are pretty stout and I they hold up just fine for installs and tire rotations. IANAL nor am I a mechanic, just a guy who's wrenched on his own cars/trucks for many years. This is my first GMC though so take it for what it's worth.

I have the AC condenser dripping water onto my exhaust and is noticeable when I exit the car and listen for a moment. Any chance it could be this? Please disregard if this is silly, it is not my intent to insult.

I would Google muffler shops in your area and get a few quotes. I've never paid more than $300-400 for a muffler/exhaust job (this with parts included). Simple cut and weld would probably run about $100. Get a used part off the forums or on your local Craigslist for $50 and have them weld it in. Junkyard parts are also another option for cheap if you own a reciprocating saw or pipe cutting tool. Boom $150 out the door for factory parts and repair. With most folks wanting more sound I always see a dumpster full of parts out in front of every shop. See if they will cut you a deal for take-offs or go with aftermarket if you want a different sound (bolt-on kit like the aforementioned Borla should run you $800-1000). There are a lot of options, just depends on what you're looking for.

Thanks for the feedback. Lol, I'm under no illusions that it's my driving. I drive a tad bit aggressively and have no plans to stop haha. The 6.2 is fun to drive. I was just trying to say that even when I try, I don't get mpg that high. [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

For those getting 20mpg, are you guys/gals driving super conservative/all highway? I'm at about 13mpg mixed. 18mpg running cruise control on the highway...trying really really hard. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

2020, 6.2L, 10 speed, AT4, purchased about June last year. 13k miles with no engine issues. Had a weird situation once where the engine wouldnt crank or start. Disconnected the batt and reconnected. Was all good, probably electronics related. Hasn't happened again. [emoji2369] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

It does exactly what it advertises to do and I've been happy with it. The throttle response can be set on the go using the cruise control buttons. I keep mine at 3-4 depending on my mood. I feel it does a good job helping the truck "feel" more responsive. It does this by keeping the truck in a good (better) spot on the power band. Doesn't give you any extra power but the truck has plenty enough for me. DFM and auto start/stop disable works seamlessly. Raised the speed limiter even though I don't ever drive that fast. I had the Range DFM and Pedal Commander, was just about to pull the trigger to do the auto start/stop thing in the console when this released. Install was plug and play with good instructions and pics. Youtube has a few videos if you get stuck. All in all, it may be a little pricey for what it is and people's opinions may differ. For me, it makes my driving experience just that much more enjoyable and was well worth the investment. Let me know what other questions you have. [emoji106] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Got it, love mine. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Been curious about this also, haven't been able to find a good solution. Lots of tight fitting plastic and wires back there. Subbed for future ideas and replies. [emoji106] Edit. Shoot sorry guys, just saw the date. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk