11bravoZ71

Great post! I love my 19 aswell. These trucks do all well enough. And have lots of room. Although I had lifter failure at 98k miles. then got it rebuilt with a delete to avoid another failure. Are you keeping the truck long term?

The shop charged me 3200$ for the full labor only. I supplied the Michigan motorsports kit it was 650$ extra. I also supplied a New oil pump, timing tensioner, and chain, Rear main seal, front seal, pushrod. Since I was at basically 100k and decided I’d rather keep this truck for as long as possible then getting into perpetual debt again. labor: 3200$ delete kit: 650$ extra parts while its apart: 300$ so 4100$ total. for what I hope is a engine that’ll last now. VS 6k+ at the dealer, of the same ticking time bomb. May have been able to tackle it myself, but I never rebuilt a motor before. although I’ve done everything else on cars besides that. the handheld tuner I bought a couple years for about 600$. The Diablosprt/superchips one… same “brand” it seems it has 3 options for tuning but I kept the stock profile with “options” Just tuned off DOD/DFM from the ECM. And it worked out. I read the disabler that goes into the OBD port would not work with a delete kit. The ECM needs to be tuned off DFM specifically. The OBD disabler only blocks the DFM signal. so a handheld “tuner” or HP tuners in necessary as it actually rewrites the computer to remove DFM from its existence. I guess lol. side note: I had DFM tuned off since 40k miles but clearly it doesn’t Avoid a lifter failure hard parts still in engine. . In my case. Once the delete was rebuilt we had to flash the ECM back to to factory. then reset and flash DFM OFF again for it to remove all the codes and limp mode.

Awesome delete! I just had a shop do the same delete on my l84 couple weeks ago. I had the same ticking you described at 98k miles. Changed oil every 4k miles since new and had DFM disabled since like 40k miles. This proves nothing can stop a DOD lifter failure, it either will happen or it won’t. Delete is the only way to avoid basically. I noticed the ticking and not even 2 weeks later while off roading in the hills. lifter in cylinder 4 went out and scraped my cam. And Bent a pushrod. Luckily it wasn’t a lot of debris. Didn’t take long for it to fail once I heard the ticking…to add to the data for those that are interested. I used Diablosport tuner to disable DFM while keeping stock tune. . No codes or issues related to DFM. And Michigan motorsports delete kit. L8T cam. just have misfire in cylinder 7 due to a slightly bent fuel injector tip it seems. It’s literally bent/corooked at the shaft, kind of like a banana but not as extreme of an angle. Idk how. . the truck bogs and bucks down a lot with flashing cel misfiring while WOT. No codes. So I swapped the 7th injector with cylinder 1 injector. And the misfires on live data scanner went to cylinder 1 proving the bad injector. While cylinder 7 stopped misfiring thank god! lol. Plugs and wires were already new. Anyway good post! Not that many l84 deletes out their great to see more!

Thanks for the reply, and yes I’ve searched it specifically with my VIN. The attached picture shows my results. 3 different injectors all being compatible for the l84 , although they have different flow rates. Other GM websites show same results. I’ve called the local dealers part center and they say PN: 12710481 Is the correct one. “Nominal flow” aka normal flow. Its the current updated part number to my originals. So I ended up ordering all 8 of them, and the fuel pump while I’m already in there. What throws me off is the fact that this part number is also compatible to the l83 previous gen v8. But have read that 2021 5.3 l84 have the high flows part number. But will update once I install them etc. in case anybody else has any confusion in the future.

Been searching for hours and weeks and cannot find an answer on this topic. I have my l84 5.3 2019 Silverado. And need a new injector. So I’m doing all 8 might as well. At 100k miles. My question is and hopefully answers this to others is. The stock injectors that came out of my are PN: 12681212 Ok but when I research what new injectors for replacement I get 3 part numbers all being “compatible”. But one of those says “high flow” etcc research indicates I need PN: 12720120 high flow. or PN: updated number to my originals 12710481 “nominal flow” my factory installed ones are PN: 12681212 “nominal flow” What’s more confusing is my original injectors are ALSO compatible to a l83 engine. So are these injectors all compatible? from 2014 and up. But the high flows are not compatible to the l83 leading me to believe. The high flows are the correct ones for me . Even though my factory ones are nominal. just want to order the correct ones, truck is stock Does it matter I install high flow ones? attached is my VIN search showing my results saying I can install either nominal or high flow ones why Does GM DO THIS.

The pain is all to real @ the river. me laughing about is what makes it bearable but I’m not really laughing lol. And camgtp thanks for the information! If I still need to tune “tune” that much especially since I’m in California it might be a damn hassle. My ECM was originally locked from the factory and I was lucky to get it unlocked out of state and that’s how I was able to “tune” off DFM via handheld Diablo sport tuner. I need to find a shop that knows how to do this right otherwise I’ll be forced to rebuild it the OEM method. SMH

Reporting in to say my barely paid off 2 months ago ohh the irony and timing am I right!? 2019 bought new z71 l84 5.3 had lifter failure at 98k miles. Background information I had DFM disabled via Diablo tuner around 60k miles. And changed my oil and filter every 5k miles sometimes even 4k miles . Used 0w30 for most of its life. I really thought it would never happen to me I was off roading on some trails and when I floored the gas one time I had instant power reduced and clankingggggg. Typical lifter sound you hear everywhere. My question is I haven’t had it officially checked out it’s just been parked. I see Multiple DFM delete kits online. And was wondering what what’s the difference between them. I already have DFM disabled via tuner. so in theory I just need the hard parts replaced and any other damaged components repaired. I refuse to buy another new truck not in this economy ever. Will not be a slave to payments for my entire life lol. Rather fix. Any opinions would be appreciated. And also I am a testament that tuning off DFM via tuner does NOT save your lifters. And changing your oil every 5k does neither. Just flip a quarter at any mileage and it’ll go boom when it wants to.

Hello GM truck owners, I’ve noticed today at 100k that my truck is leaking ALOT of “condensation” is this normal? I’ve already “refilled” a couple months ago. Pressure shows 45 ish. Ac has never been freezing cold anyway. Always thought it was normal to be weak. It’s leaking from two points. Also the leaking water is not cold at all. It’s very warm. Anybody have any idea if my ac is failing? Or what have you. Truck is a 2019 z71 cc with about 97k miles.

To those who might need to someday replace their radiator DIY on the 19+ GM trucks. I Got the radiator installed. I watched YouTube videos of the previous body style 14-18 trucks. And the process was very similar if not very close. A 3 hour job but in retrospect fairly easy. this video was spot on. Even though it’s the previous body style. It guided me through till done. I did have to remove skid plate to make the job easier. Just do it. Attached I have my cracked crappy JB patch on the old radiator LOL. On the new radiator I lightly sanded the same area and applied JB WELD. As a preemptive move because it seems these radiators crack in this exact spot for some reason.

Thanks for the replies fellas. Perhaps it was just bad luck. Being plastic and all. A high quality all metal one for this body style would be nice. Once I get the new radiator and I remove this one and install I’ll update on the difficulty of the job.

hello fellow GM drivers. happy holidays. I wanted to ask Has anybody had their radiator crack on their 19+ Sierra Silverados. Mine cracked on the driver side plastic side. It bulged outwards. I did do a coolant drain and fill not to long ago. Perhaps I didn’t bleed the air enough and over pressure caused it to crack. Found this failure really strange. If anybody has any knowledge on how to remove It. I’d appreciate it. I managed to get some some JB WELD. On the crack without removing it or sanding the plastic. But it lasted 5 days because I didn’t prep it and sand the surface because I couldn’t reach in between the condenser enough. So the epoxy cracked and leaked …… Already have a OEM unit being shipped. Just wondering if anybody had experiences removing this radiator on this body style. Because it looks over engineered like All vehicles nowadays. Have to remove a lot of plastics. It’s a 2019 Silverado CC Z71 5.3 8speed OG owner. keeping this bad boy forever. the uploaded image was found on Reddit from Some other truck 19+ owner. I have the same EXACT. Failure location. Strange.

1. Engine OFF 2. Electronic parking brake also OFF 3. hold the push-to-start button to get accessories mode on. Or if you have the key ignition turn it half way before starting the engine. 4. hold brake pedal and electric parking for 12 seconds then let go at the same time. 5. quickly press the electric parking brake button once more then let go. you should be in the brake service mode after a couple tries. You’ll hear the noise and the yellow light on your dash blinking etc. Only after you do this then change your brakes in the rear. I was easily able to push in the piston and install my news pads. if you remove your brakes and caliper first then do this procedure your piston will fall out and it’ll take you hours to get it back in without damaging the the seal. Ask me how i know. POINT BEING IS get the truck into brake service mode first THEN doing the rear brakes is to easy.

Overpriced HP tuners. Used to be the first tuner that was able to Tune DFM and auto start stop OFF etc on the 19 and up Silverado/sierra. until superchips and Diablo sport figured it out to. then HP tuners lowered their over priced price. I have superchips and tuned off all that stuff. Worth it very much. No credits required, just a ECM send in so they can unlock it.

2019 z71 5.3L 8l90 new transmission valve body at 59k miles. Serpentine belt and pulley both failed at around 30k current mileage is 73k miles Superchips Tuned DFM OFF. doesn't burn oil anymore after DFM shut off. 8l90 thermostat deleted. Amsoil Fluids bumper to bumper expect engine oil. Because I change it every 5k. Drives and shifts better new at 73k miles. Weird. Expect for the occasional clunk I get when going into REVERSE from any gear since 0 miles. Maybe the driveshaft needs lube idk.

I found this method of installing a winch. Looks very interesting for those thinking of installing a hidden winch with all the engineering thought out. Vs a custom build. https://www.roughcountry.com/chevy-hidden-winch-bumper-10805.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpcs&utm_campaign=17867423678|&utm_content=&utm_term=||m||fit_first_10805-a&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImpnboOe-_AIVyhWtBh10xwR6EAQYASABEgJn6fD_BwE

Thanks for the reply. My research shows this as well. I’ll be sure to look into Costco now.

Hello forum goers. My battery at 72k miles has started to drain quickly when I listen to the radio with engine off faster then ever. when I start sometimes it’ll struggle. Also one time I left the truck sitting for 2 weeks and it didn’t start unless I jumped it. So I assume a new battery Is needed. Any suggestions on a better longer lasting battery like a (one step up) to the OEM original one?. More durable I have A 2019 CC LT Z71 5.3 8 speed. Reasonably priced suggestions preferred. Thanks to anyone.

I used the superchips tuner, part number 2847-S. Once you receive it in the mail you fill out a form online with instructions it was VERY easy to do. Then I had to ship my ECM to them to get it unlocked, it’s included in the price of the tuner to get it unlocked. I just had to pay to ship it to them…. they then ship it back really fast on their dime overnight. Then you can use that tuner. We’ll worth the investment If keeping the truck long term like I plan to. To disable that DFM with a permanent tune. If the motor still fails later from a lifter I’m rebuilding it with a DFM delete kit and will already have the tuned off portion done. https://www.holley.com/products/tuners_and_programmers/handheld_tuners/parts/2847-S?utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google+Shopping+-+SuperChips+-+Brand&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&hsa_acc=7848552874&hsa_cam=13757689632&hsa_grp=125866783153&hsa_ad=531361842411&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-1457925725188&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwZHvtaaG-wIVYQx9Ch2YeQEsEAQYAiABEgLmyPD_BwE

Yes superchips unlocked my ECM. Then after I got it back from them I was able to tune the truck adjust other settings and disable DFM.

Just delete who cares

I ended finding a way to get my ECM unlocked from superchips. And got their tuner I disabled DFM with the tuner. And for sure it’s now OFF permanently. With the range module I was able to notice it would only work half the time I would coast then gas the pedal and I would feel the engine go into v8 very often and then not . Now with this tune off it’s just off period. instantly v8 feel. IMO. Those modules are always fighting the signals from the ECM to constantly block “AFM/DFM. It’s not just shut off. And I’ve tried 2 of them updated ones…. Theirs a reason why the LEDS blink back and forth. Maybe it’s just my truck idk. Or DFM is just more complex then AFM. Tuning it off actually reprograms so DFM doesnt even exist electronically. At the ECM level. So No signal to block from the beginning. As a side benefit the transmission now shifts even better and firmer a whole lot less lag

Not loosing power from the port.that I know of. I’m not sure what the lights mean. I just know that their always changing pattern. So I assume it’s constantly sending the signal to keep DFM off. it’s not a one and done vs a actual tune… I’m hoping the pulsar LT stops DFM more robustly. Like a tune but without the tune as advertised obviously. im not a fan of that. I can still sometimes feel the truck changing from v8 to everything in between every now and then. Not 100% reliable in my experience.. and I tried to 2 new range modules that were updated. At least with this 5.3 l84 DFM engine. im going to try and try a pulsar LT for now and later try and get it tuned off permanently with a superchip tuner to anticipate a DFM hard delete.

5.3l because IMO. It’s the original. Doesn’t need high octane gas for the long run. It’s well rounded. And has more then enough power. I’m not racing in a pickup truck. just needs a DFM or AFM hard delete and rebuild. And It’s gold.