jw63

I abandoned the project & kept the original tow mirrors on the truck. Didn't want to live with the camera view being distorted.

OP - If I may offer some assistance from experience. On my '21 Sierra, I recently tried going from tow mirrors (with tech package [360 view camera]) to standard denali mirrors with the camera. Thought it would be a straight up swap. The mirrors mounted up just fine, but the mirror lights were all messed up (coming on with headlights), and the 360 camera view was skewed due to the different camera position. I tried doing some research at the time of said project. You would definitely need new wire harnesses for the doors to correct the lighting issue. The camera issue (if you want the 360 view to still be usable) is a different story. Dealership did not know if the BCM flash is in the computer for the standard mirrors (going from factory tow mirrors to standard we thought the original BCM flash may be in the computer). In your case, you would need the tow mirror BCM flash, which I would confidently say is not in your BCM. And unless the dealer knows how to get and add that themselves, you'd be SOL in regards to the 360 view.

I'm needing to replace my magnetic ride struts & shocks soon due to mileage & subsequent diminishing ride quality. I'm finding some eBay sellers who are selling the complete front assemblies, coil springs and all (Qty 2 / Pair - OEM/ACDelco/BWI group struts) for less than $500, and RockAuto's price for a single strut (strut only - Qty 1) is over $400. Has anyone purchased the aforementioned front assemblies off of eBay? I've never been scammed on eBay but this price just seems to good to be possible.

A few months ago I had the same 2 codes that you are showing. I cleared the codes but both came right back the following day. Dealer had to replace the shutters. They were not properly opening and closing when commanded by the ECM.

@CajunFries What was involved in this conversion, mainly regarding the caliper? Does the ZR1 caliper bolt right on? Obviously need the corresponding rotor & pad size, but not sure what else is needed. Thanks in advance.

I've experienced the same thing in an 18' Sierra 1500 Denali...has done it maybe 3 times over the past year with no direct cause. I thought I was always crazy for thinking it was abnormally loud until I saw your post. I'm guessing it's just something wonky in the programming logic...for example I've had the radio switch favorites while turning the truck off and then the radio stayed on even though the key was out, driver door had opened & closed, and the truck was locked.

It is not as simple as buying new seats and mounting them. You would need to change the wiring harness(es) as well as adding in the switch hardware to control the a/c function, and I'm sure there's more that would need changed.

I can't speak to deleting the magnetic ride system, and I have yet to replace the magnaride shocks on my Denali...but I replaced them on an XTS at 60K miles and the difference was night and day. The ride was not horrible yet on the old shocks, but the new shocks were well worth the money to replace. There's some discussion around Magnetic ride on GM vehicles and from what I've read & experienced is that they simply don't last much past 60K miles or so. Even if they don't fail immediately at that mileage, the ride quality dissipates quickly... If your current shock(s) have actually failed or frozen up, you will be amazed at the improvement new magnaride shocks will have. Considering you purchased the truck @ 83K, you probably have yet to experience the magnetic ride system to its fullest.

I've had the booster replaced 2 times, on separate vehicles. 1st time the dealership spilled quite a bit of oil changing the booster...so much so that I thought the engine had sprung a severe leak. IIRC, I had to add about .75 quarts of oil. The 2nd vehicle had no spillage evident and when brought home, the oil level was normal. I would simply recommend checking the oil once you get the car back to verify...(assuming the dealership is doing the recall work)

Michelin Defender LTX can't be beat for value/quality. I would never purchase a Sumitomo for any vehicle I was intending on using and keeping...had them before and they are junk...cheap, but junk.

Personally, I do not like the design of the newer generation. Also, if I were trying to justify trading my truck, that'd tell me that I should probably keep it. If it were me, I'd keep what you have, especially haven replaced/upgraded what you've mentioned.

I've experienced a similar situation...was hauling a trailer and accelerating after a roundabout. Truck didn't down shift (good reason to always have tow/haul mode on when towing lol) and ended up lugging the engine and experienced some serious engine knock...as soon as I let off the throttle the check engine light quit flashing and went away. Doubt you'd be getting the same issue by simply climbing a hill, but a possibility I suppose. I've had a cylinder misfire in another vehicle in which case the computer would probably put the engine in limp mode/deactivate that cylinder, and store the check engine light code (light would stay on until the code gets erased).