Byrds8

I tried the above product. Although it does stop some of the flapping, it does not stop all. The higher speeds, the more flapping still takes place.

Looks like Range changed its description and now says some 1500s DFM may activate at slow speeds when no throttle input is active. So I guess V8 all the time except sometimes lol.

The guy on the ZR2 forum said he just disconnected the battery and reconnected it to get it to work.

From the ZR2 specific site, they say it takes like 10min to install. One person has said after letting his vehicle sit for a day or so he came back to a dead battery. He thinks it may be the Range but others have said they have not had an issue.

Which is why I said remove it before taking it in. It’s not detectable if it’s not there.

Being a direct injected engine, they do make a lot more noise than normal. But the chirping noise you are speaking of a lot of them seem to do. There is a TSB about it where GM says it's normal and says no repairs are needed. I know, it's dumb, but what can we do. The chirp on down shift can be remedied by driving in L9 as it is DFM related. As far as the DFM disabler, Range just released one recently. Not sure about it killing your lifters and would love to know where and how that he got that info since it's been out maybe a week. As for warranty, that is why you remove it before taking it in. You wouldnt leave a Pulsar LT on when taking it in either.

Well it came with Rancho shocks stock. I know they suck compared to others. Yep a 2500 is taller...and more expensive. So may as well just make this one a bit taller

Thanks for the clarification. I wanted to make sure Im gonna get at least the 2". I know sometimes folks buy stuff and says 2 but really means 1.5. Wouldnt be cool to spend the money and not get what I wanted. I realize its what makes the AT4 and TB what they are. Now just to find time..... Funny enough, when I asked about calibrations, the dealer didnt seem to think there were any lol.

Does the factory lift give a full two inches or is it "close"? I thought about going this route just for the warranty etc. Thanks.

I feel you. I would be too. Cant stand it to make noises that "shouldnt" be there lol. The plastic trim around my door rattles ever so slightly...drives me nuts.

Mine doesnt do so, so not sure what would be causing it. Granted after a couple of heat cycles, I went under and made sure everything was tight. The only issue I have with mine is that they didnt cut the old exhaust enough for the end of the tails to be even with the bumper. They still out a few inches.

I have the Borla S-type and there is no drone in it. Since it is supposed to be louder than the touring, I wouldnt think it would drone either. I will say though, I wished it was a bit louder lol.

Now if I only got that email for my Silverado lol

Just got the same type of email about the Terrain retrofit being started and when its my turn Ill get notified. Guess its a start but it still could be months lol.

Well, just like most things, you take any service advisors word with a grain of salt. Every service advisor I have spoken with about it will flat out say if you disable AFM/DFM the lifters wont fail. Its due to the activation of it that is causing the issues. I am not here to argue, I am just pointing out what I have learned much as yourself. There are articles discussing this subject though.

While you are correct, changing out those parts will 100% solve the issue, you are incorrect in the fact that disabling DFM does not also solve the issue. From what I have read on here and other places, disabling DFM/AFM does in fact keep lifters from failing in the way they fail with it active.

Wonder if this will be soon for my wife's Terrain and my Silverado. I called the GMC dealership the other day and service told me maybe 4th qtr.

My old 13 Camaro use to roll up the half way down. Usually when it did this it meant it needed to relearn the stops Up/down. Could that be the case with your truck?

I turned mine off. I never have liked DFM or AFM.

Nice looking truck. If it were later in the year, Id be getting rid of stock black and chrome ones. Plan on going with Amp boards myself.

How is it more aerodynamic for the air to hit a flat surface vs flowing in to cool the engine and then back out?

No, I was just saying the thermostat itself. Wish there was an easy way to keep it cooler. What I do not understand though is why it heats up as much at interstate speeds. The thermostat should be wide open and have plenty of free flowing air without the fan on. But yet even doing 70-75, it will fluctuate between 215-225.

I have Xpel in mine at 55% and still get glare of the chrome.

Right, after warm up its all the computer controlling the fans and thermostat. My fans dont come on til 220 for my understanding and I regularly see temps hit 225. I have asked several dealers about it and they say its working as intended. Personally I think thats hot as hell though.

I thought the shutters are full open after the truck is warmed up? Is that not accurate?