Kjduvall

i have 35/12.5-20s and have plenty of power, pull mid size tractors and other ****** just fine. youll prolly loose a tad more but itll still do truck stuff. if you feel it has drained too much for you to bear then you have two great options, the new procharger kit or the new whipple blower kit both are tuning included(personally id go with the whipple for more TQ over the centri)

seen a bad crimp on the soft lines going to caliper act as a one way valve and make that happen ( usually newer jeeps) wonder if thats whats going on here. really sounds like what you have holding pressure on the caliper and not fully releasing causing them to wear fast. just a thought for you.

that should be a great set up, please keep us updated. full btr cam specs by chance?

the arm looks like alota angle, but its the ball joint angle thats important. notice how the cup that holds the ball joint is nicely angled giving a great ball joint angle with no bind.

another jr is right, once you get too much its the upper a arm stop that gets iffy (this is drv side pic), the lower is fine. even with the cognito set up you have to chop off the stop just under the front upper a arms and it works just fine.

the cognito 3in performance kit with fox 2.0ifp shocks/ upper a arms is a really nice kit. i only turned it up to 2in and was perfect for my set up 35/12.5 r20 (i also had to use diffrent u-bolts/ 1.5in blocks cause mines a 1 ton) the kit comes with 1in blocks witch would be fine on most set ups. its about 1800 bucks. the stance of the truck will really come from your wheel choice after that. you can also add other things to it to make it evan better i did a suspension maxx diff drop to get my cv angle perfect and the cognito pisk kit to beef up the pitman arm, and mine drives great. next ill be adding the steering stabilizer set up just for the heck of it.

looks like a picture my 3yr old would draw.....

they work just fine for me.

i ordered it like that , it was an option. im not a fan of the big ass ones.

sounds like something weird going on, wonder if your temp sensor is just not right. or maybe you have a air pocket in the cooling system some how, just for the heck of it next time you pull in to your driveway after shuting engine down (yet still hot) slowly unscrew coolant reserve and let the pressure out all the way then screw back down as normal. next day or so see if any thing changes. ive had an air pocket that was semi hard to get worked out before (not on one of these trucks) but on an older pontiac. you could also use a temp gun on the thermo housing to see what actual temp is getting up to.

the stock lt1 cam ( i have one from a 2020 camaro i did a gpi cam in) is p/n 12629512 its 200/207 .551/.524 lift 116.5 lsa , i think that 242/244 is a copo n/a cam or gm performance grind, not a stock lt1 oem cam.

get some nice seat covers youll be glad you did. lots to choose from vertex and cat skin are top notch.

i bet TEA (total engine airflow) could cnc port those heads/mill em a bit and get a little more comp out of em, that would work good with the e85.

ive been saying it for awhile, these 6.6 motors have soo much potential . they are neuterd from the factory. think about a 225/236 .620/.620 lift on a 113 +2 lsa or so cam , with some long tubes and that new 6.6 whipple blower............... it would be bonkers on some e85. im glad somebody is putting in some time (and money) to play with one. wish i had more cash to play with, id be rocking a 900+ hp 6.6.

i like em, im on team small mirror. ordered the truck like that cause our company truck has the elephant ear mirrors on it and im not a fan.

i have the same ones in my reg cab, love them. i actually bought them the day i ordered my truck so they sat for about 100 days before i evan had the truck. most people that see them dont evan know there covers they fit that good.

ill be doing this mod in the spring, i already have the cognito pisk kit so i need the bracket to clear that.

yep dealership parts the grill was just under 800 and the nose piece was under 200 bucks, the bumper (stock chrome) was sand blasted and powdercoated black (my buddy owns a powdercoat place so it was free). but i dont recomend doing that, one small hit in a lowes parking lot and it chiped rather easily. when i do the bumper "skin" again im going to look for a non chrome bumper and have it painted with oem paint i think itll hold up better.

its really not that hard, the side moldings are the trickiest part ust take your time. i did it and the hood piece cause they wouldnt make a reg cab at4, so i made my own.

opinion, i think drinking and driving is worse now (more dangerous) cause there's more people on the road. so there is bound to be more collateral damage. i can remember my dad/mom telling stories about first time running there 65 chevy2 327 4spd car down an embankment and through a field, first thing was throw the bottle of jack daniels in the creek then walk 2mi to the neighbors farm and barter a case of beer to drag it out. my grandfather got a dwi in a semi with a load of dynamite. my other grandfather got a dwi after leaving the local vfw and hit a parked car, got caught cause he left a note on the car promising to have it fixed. but these days its already too easy to get killed/hurt out there, no point in making the odds worse.

yes you need the length to make up the lost length, the factory muffler is huge.

yes its 3.5 in i used the borla xr1 summit p/n bor-40086 3.5in in/out and summit p/n sum-640274 3.5in and 45in long stainless pipe to make up the space left over. and it sounds great not super loud but very nice tone and no drone in the cab (mines a reg cab). and i suggest welding it in honestly a local shop will not charge much for that, its just much cleaner to do it that way.