Jethro71

I have not yet purchased the GoDark Vault for my key fob, but I'm seriously considering it. I went to their website and looked at the inner dimensions of both the large and small key fob vaults. It looks like the small one will work for the key fob that came with my 2021 Sierra 1500 AT4. If they have changed the shape and/or dimensions of the key fobs for the later model trucks since then, I couldn't tell ya.

Good point Transient. I forgot to mention the Tri-Fold covers. I personally didn't consider them because when they are opened, they completely block your rear window and I wasn't too keen on that. But, if that doesn't bother you, then tri-folds are a great option as they have a clean look, many of them are extremely strong and durable, they don't take up any space in your bed when they are open, they are very secure, and they do a good job of keeping the water out. Since I didn't research any of them though, I can't speak to the specific features and quality of the specific brands and models.

I struggled with the exact same issue last year. I was trying to decide between Roll-N-Lock Truck Covers USA, and Retrax Pro. Like you, I did not want to give up a lot of space in my truck bed to a canister. I finally decided on the Roll-N-Lock. Here's why. Roll-N-Lock has one of the smallest canisters on the market. It's only 7 1/4" high x 9" deep. It looks good and is reliable. I wasn't too thrilled about the strap at first, but it has grown on me and I don't mind it so much now. My biggest complaint is that it leaks (especially in the corners) more than I would like. I looked seriously at Truck Covers USA's American Roll Cover as well. Their canister is one of the smallest as well at 8" x 8" and they're American made. I decided against the American Roll Cover for 2 reasons. 1. You must remove the grab handle in the back of the truck in order to install the cover. 2. You are supposed to drill 2 more holes in your truck for drains and I didn't want to do that either. I also looked at the Retrax Pro. The Retrax Pro is really popular with many truck owners around where I live. I really liked its looks and the way the cover works and locks, however, they have one of the largest canisters on the market. It's 12" x 12". I just couldn't bring myself to put a canister that big in the back of my truck. I have spoken with several owners of Retrax Pros and have mixed reviews on how well it keeps water out. Some say they hardly get a drop of water in the bed of their truck, while others said theirs leaks like a sieve. There is a fourth cover you might want to look into- the BAK Revolver X4s. There is no canister, so it doesn't take up any space in the bed of your truck. I have read that it does a good job of keeping the water out as well. I didn't choose the Revolver X4s because I was looking for an all-aluminum cover. The X4s is vinyl covered aluminum. Also, the X4s is either completely open, or completely closed. You can't open part way like the other covers. AMP Research retractable steps were one of the first things I installed on my '21 Sierra 1500 AT4. They work well and have been very reliable so far. AMP has several different models available. The PowerStep is the basic model and the one I have. I have been very happy with it and it works exactly the way I need it too. The PowerStep Smart Series allows you to operate the steps and lights independently via their app if you want to. The PowerStepXL drops down 3" lower than the basic Power Step. The XL is marketed towards trucks that are lifted. Finally, the PowerStep Xtreme is for those whose truck operate in extreme and challenging conditions. It comes with 2 motors on each side to operate the steps. I don't think it is wet weather you need to worry about. It's more snowy and icy conditions that should concern you. My biggest complaint about AMP Research is that they don't offer a wheel-to-wheel model. This got a little longer than I originally intended, but I hope it helps. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks for all the valuable information on this thread. I'm getting ready to do this myself. Does anyone know why the Dorman rear studs are twice as expensive as the front studs? Also, has anyone considered just buying new front studs and moving the old front studs to the rear? It looks like the old front studs are 71mm in length which would be sufficient for the rear.

That thought has crossed my mind, or at least some other after-market bumper that's cheaper than the OEM one. While it isn't readily apparent from the picture, I did sustain a fair amount of damage in my rear quarter panel from it getting pushed in by the bumper that is beyond my ability to fix.

It was in a parking lot and I was using my rearview and sideview mirrors instead of the backup camera so that I could see possible oncoming traffic easier out of my peripheral vision.

Could someone please explain to me, why my parking sensors go off and alert me every time a little twig or stick is sticking out of the ground somewhere in the vicinity of my truck, yet they fail to alert me when an 8" concrete reinforced steel post is directly in front of them?! Additionally, could someone please explain why hitting said post at 2-3 mph causes roughly $4,000 worth of damage?! I think it's absolutely ridiculous that I spend north of $65,000 for a truck whose bumper can not withstand a 2-3 mph impact without causing that much damage. I realize that I should have been paying closer attention, but the post was in my blind spot. I never saw it.

I have the regular Amp Research Power Step, not the Power Step Extreme. Overall, I am fairly happy with them. They work like they are supposed to. They are made well with a good fit and finish and were pretty easy to install. But I will say there are 2 things that really annoy me about them. 1. I wish they were designed better so that they would tuck up under the truck and blend in with the body lines better when they are retracted. When they fold up there is still a 1" gap between the steps and the truck. They literally stick out like a sore thumb. I've seen Power Steps on other truck models (Ford, Ram, etc.) and you don't even notice they are there until they deploy. 2. I wish Amp Research would offer longer wheel-to-wheel versions that would reach my truck bed so that it would be easier for me to step up and reach down into the bed of my truck. That being said, I haven't seen any retractable steps from any other company that were any better, so I'm sticking with what I've got, but that doesn't mean that I don't think Amp Research could make improvements to the design of their product.

Fascinating. Everything I have read and even a conversation with Fox Support indicated that there wasn't enough room between the bed and the frame to slide the reservoir through. I wish I had known otherwise, I would have bought the 2.5s instead of the 2.0s for the rear!

I would love to see pictures. I have a similar setup for my 2021 AT4- i just haven't installed it yet. Everything is sitting in my garage waiting for a warm weekend... So I have the Fox 2.5s and the Icon UCAs for the front like you, but I opted for Fox 2.0s for the rear. Honestly, the main reason I went with the 2.0s instead of the 2.5s wasn't because of price, but because I don't want to have to unbolt the bed of my truck when ever the shocks have to be serviced. I wish Fox had rear 2.5s where the reservoir was mounted directly to the shock like the way Icon does.

I installed the Rigid Ignite Floods in my bumper step, but there was definitely more to it than just "a bit more fitting and trimming". I am happy with the final result, but because of the cross traffic radar units, I had to fabricate a 1/4" spacer on the outside for the lights and a 1/8" spacer on the backside for the radar mount bracket so that there was enough clearance between the two so everything would sit flush. Initially I tried just a 3/8" spacer on the outside and nothing on the radar unit bracket, but that extra 1/8" made it too thick and it just didn't look good. I am much happier with the look of the 1/4" spacer. I would have loved to have had a 3D printer, but since I didn't, I cut out a spacer from a sheet of stock 1/4" thick plastic from Amazon. Right now I have them wired up to my GM Upfitter switch so I can turn them on and off manually. Ideally, I would have a 3-way switch where I could choose between having them come on automatically with my reverse lights or be able to turn them on and off manually as well. Maybe that will be a future project...

Awesome looking truck. I love the skid plate and the look of the front end, but can you say you have a bumper? It looks like you just removed the bumper and put a skid plate in its place. How difficult was that? I would love to somehow retrofit one of the new 2023 AT4X AEV bumpers onto my 2021 AT4.

Where is the starter relay signal wire? I've been thinking about adding a kill switch in some manner and that's the best I've heard so far.

I there any reason why I can't or shouldn't move my cross traffic radar units back about 1/4"? They are mounted right behind the step in the bumper and I need them to be set back about 1/4" or so to make room for some bumper lights that I'm installing. I was thinking about putting a 1/4" spacer between the mounting bracket and where it attaches to set it back a little. Would moving them back 1/4" affect how they should function?

I know this thread is a little old, but how did you mount your lights? Just "a bit more fitting and trimming to do"? I have the Rigid Ignite lights as well and I'm still trying to figure out what fitting and trimming I need to do in order to mount them around that radar unit. Any tips or help on what you did to mount them would be really appreciated. Thanks.

I'm scared to say anything, but recently I haven't had any issues with the service warning lights coming on. I removed my Pulsar LT for about 4 months or so this past fall to experiment with gas mileage and to see if I still had those service light issues or not. (I didn't). I put it back on after Christmas. It has been on for about a month now and I haven't had any issues yet. If the issues do start back up, I will reach out to Range support and see if there are any updates. For now though, if it isn't causing any issues, I'm just going to leave it, not mess with it, and enjoy running on all 8 cylinders full time and not having to hit the auto start/stop button every time I get in the truck.

That looks very similar to the BAK Revolver X4S. I considered that, but again, I wasn't really a fan of the vinyl over the aluminum. But I can see how some would find that appealing. I do like the flat profile and the fact you can remove it fairly easily.

I have the A-Series XT. The Retrax canister *is* quite a bit bigger than the Roll N Lock, that's why I chose the Roll N Lock. I like the size of the Roll N Lock. I like the security it gives. I can live with the annoying strap if it just didn't leak so bad. I figured if the Retrax Pro was more water tight, it would be worth giving up the extra space, especially since the Retrax Pro now comes with a limited lifetime warranty. But if you're saying that the Retrax leaks just as bad as the Roll N Lock, then I don't know what else to do. Yeah, I wasn't too keen on drilling more holes in my bed either for the American Roll Cover. While I really prefer the all aluminum look as opposed to the vinyl covered aluminum, the vinyl covered aluminum is probably more water tight. The BAK X4S is a roll up with out a canister, but it has a vinyl cover on it and you have to open your tailgate to release the cover. Options are limited. There just isn't a product on the market right now that checks all the boxes for me. I guess I'm stuck with my Roll N Lock until something better comes out. Good luck. Let us know what you decide.

After a year of exhaustive research, I installed a Roll N Lock XT this past summer on my GMC 1500 AT4. I almost immediately regretted it. I had narrowed it down to the Roll N Lock, the Truck Covers USA American Roll Cover, the Retrax, and the BAK X4S. While I liked that the BAK X4S didn't use a canister, and that it had a low profile, I wasn't too fond of the vinyl cover. I wanted an all aluminum cover. I really liked the Retrax, but I couldn't get past the size of the canister. So that narrowed it down to the Roll N Lock and the American Roll Cover. I really liked the American Roll Cover as well. The canister is actually smaller than the Roll N Lock, and it is stronger than the Roll N Lock. But, in order to install it, I would have to remove my fold out grab handle and I didn't want to give that up so I went with the Roll N Lock... bad move. While I know that these covers aren't 100% waterproof, the Roll N Lock leaks like a sieve. It leaks in all 4 corners of the bed and when it rains really hard, it actually seeps between the slats and drips down into the middle of the bed. One evening after a hard rain I looked in the back of my truck and everything in the back got soaked. Then, the strap drives me crazy. It is constantly in the way. It's in the way when it's open. It's in the way when it's closed. It's in the way when I'm loading and unloading stuff. It's just in the way. I truly wish I had purchased the Retrax instead. In hindsight, I would give up the extra room the Retrax takes up for a cover that doesn't leak so bad. Everyone I have talked to who has a Retrax say they love it and it keeps the bed of their truck dry. My advice would be to stick with the Retrax, even though it is bigger, or take a look at Truck USA's American Roll cover. Stay away from Roll N Lock. Good luck

I have had the exact same issue with my Pulsar LT and Sierra 1500 AT4 6.2L. It will happen anywhere from 1-2 times a month. When I contacted Range, a couple months ago, they said they had not heard of that issue. I bought mine over a year ago so I'm out of luck with the warranty. For the longest time, I didn't connect all the service warnings with the Pulsar LT until I started reading about others having the same issues. What I usually do is just disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, wait a minute, and then reconnect it. That clears up the issues. Do you think that an update to the Pulsar LT will correct the issues? I really like my Pulsar LT and all the flexibility it offers, and I don't want to get rid of it, but I'm tired of having to disconnect the battery every couple of weeks.

Thanks. I went ahead and purchased a Roll-N-Lock because I wanted a small canister and I didn't want to get rid of my grab handle. TBH though, I'm not very happy with my Roll-N-Lock. I knew that it wasn't completely waterproof, but this thing leaks all over the place. I wish I had purchased a ReTrax Pro instead.

Thanks. That is very helpful. My 8 year old is the exact same way.

How does the road noise of the Ridge Grapplers compare to the stock Duratracs? I'm thinking about getting the same tire for my 2021 AT4.

I have the same issue. It's frustrating sure enough, but not so much that I want to get rid of my Pulsar LT... yet. Are there any alternatives out there other than a ECM swap?

I was afraid the Pulsar LT might be the problem. I think I'm going to email them and see if they have an update for the Pulsar LT that might fix this issue. If they don't, I guess I'll just keep must socket set with me and disconnect the battery to reset the computer when it happens because I really don't want to get rid of disabling the DFM. Now that these trucks and DFM have been out for a few years, are there any other devices or ways to reprogram/ re-tune the computer to get rid of DFM that wasn't available prior to the Pulsar LT?