Dr1ft3r

You must have gotten a deal! Mine was $1400 for a factory replacement. Luckily I have a $0 deductible. (Do you have the lane departure assistance, or w/e it's called? That might explain the price difference.) To add insult to injury, that was a month ago. Yesterday a friggin boulder slammed my windshield and I have to make another claim. The old claim is still open... LOL! I feel that my 1st windshield was inferior. But the hit yesterday would have cracked bulletproof glass! So I can't comment on the strength of that windshield. Maybe 3rd times the charm...

I tow a toy hauler weighing 12k-13k through the Rockies with my gasser. It does just fine. No WDH either, just bags. High RPM is expected. Been on 8% grades with it. I don't wish for more gears either. But I will like the added torque from that Whipple SC as soon as they officially add support for my 23'.

As soon as they tell me that they can add it to my 2023, I'm all in for this. I'll bet the 6-speed tranny will be a perfect match for that blower. I have more than enough money to have paid the extra $10k for the diesel. I didn't want a diesel. One reason being that I spend a lot of time in subzero temps. Another reason is I have a lot of machinery that runs on gas. Generators, Quads, other vehicles, etc. It's very convenient to only have to carry 1 fuel type with me. That way it's all completely interchangeable. If anything runs out of gas, I have spare gas. I only buy ethanol-free gas for my storage tanks for this very reason. I have a Cummins Onan 4k generator on my toy hauler with a 40 gallon tank, it's filled with gas as well as it's not diesel either. While ethanol gas will not hurt my truck, I don't want to put ethanol gas in my small engines.

I finally got around to finishing my winch install.

Just added some Air Lift bags. I wish I had done them sooner.

You're free to theorize all you want. But there's a reason why almost every 18-wheeler on the road has a steel guard on the front of their trucks. I live in the country and most pickup trucks out here have steel bumpers as well. I know people that will swear that their steel bumper saved their life and their family's life. We don't have to theorize out here. We have personally seen what a steel bumper will do and what happens without one. Good day to you.

There's only one way to know for sure. Also, a 1,500-2,000 pound moose is closer to 1/4 the weight of my truck, not half. My truck weighs 7,450# according to my factory sticker. That was before I added a 270# front bumper and grille guard combo and a 107# rear bumper to my truck, as well as a ~250# bed cover. Now I have added another 80# from a new battery and soon will be adding another 200#+ from my new winch and mount. I expect the truck to weigh well over 8,000# before adding any cargo, including myself. As far as physics, my Ranch Hand Legend steel bumper is capable of supporting a winch with a weight capacity more than the GVWR of my truck (which means that it can hold the truck off of the ground). Any force strong enough to tear through my bumper will also have to bend the chassis frame of the truck. A very difficult task to accomplish on a direct hit. Deer will not do anything to the bumper, I know first hand. This is NOT a bumper guard. It replaces my stock bumper entirely and is directly tied to the frame of the truck with 12x grade 8.8 bolts. I've seen moose that were turned into ground beef by 18-wheelers and it didn't even bend the grille guard on their truck. Flesh has never faired well against steel. Our stock bumpers are tin foil. However, with our trucks it's much more likely that a moose will end up going through my windshield as I'll likely only hit the legs of an adult moose. But if I were to strike a 2,000# moose body dead on then the potential damage to my vehicle would depend on the speed I was travelling at when I made contact (I'd be hitting the brakes). At a speed under 40 mph, I'll bet against having any real damage. At a speed of 80 mph, I'm pretty sure that something would be damaged. That is for a dead on hit. If I hit it near one of my headlights then the damage potential will be worse at the given speed as the steel is not as thick there. Many people only buy the grille guard, and not the bumper with the grille guard welded onto it. So, when they hit something the grille guard is only attached at the bottom so it folds in due to forces pushing in at the top (think lever action). With the grille guard welded onto the bumper it is supported in the front by the bumper to help keep it from folding, but it is also welded to the bumper on the sides, which adds even more stability to the guard.

Finally got my aux battery secured (not hooked up yet). I work 12 hours per day every day of the week lately so it's hard to find the time. It took some planning to fit a group 31 battery in the aux tray.

With my old camper I did the speed limit or more, but only up to a maximum speed of 80 mph. It came with stock Q rated Goodyear Wrangler tires good for speeds up to 99 mph though. My new camper has Goodyear G614 tires which are rated for speeds up to 75 mph (when at maximum load). I will keep my top speed with these tires at around 70 mph most of the time. Besides, with this new camper my MPG drops exponentially at speeds over 65 mph since it has such a large frontal area. I prefer driving at night. If I have to go through any major cities I always try to go through at night. I really dislike heavy traffic. When I was traveling from Naples, FL I never went through Tampa during the daytime and I would go around Atlanta if my fastest route took me trough there.

65-70 mph is decent. I was referring to traveling on the interstate at 55 mph when the limit is 80+ mph. I have personally almost ran into people going that slow when the speed limit was 80 mph. I was coming up on them, I looked in my blind spot, when I looked back ahead of me I was almost on top of them. If I would have had someone in my blind spot I would have had to slam on the brakes and still might have hit them. The minimum lawful speed on a highway is not necessarily a safe speed to travel. Edit: especially these days since almost everyone does 5-10 mph over the limit. That's 90+ mph in some places, which would be 35 mph more than 55 mph.

Um, no. California is the only state with a 55 mph towing speed limit. https://rvnerds.com/resources/speed-limits-and-towing/ I also agree with the opinion of the person you responded to. If a person wants to travel much slower than the speed limit, then they should stay off of the interstate and stick to state highways. Impeding the flow of traffic causes accidents. Edit: Oops, I see the people above me already corrected the speed limit part...

Sorry to hear it. I've passed moose that were on the shoulder of the highway several times. But luckily never hit one. That's part of the reason I invested in a steel bumper and grille guard. I'll still hit the brakes, but if a hit is inevitable then I'll try to make it a direct hit so that the heavy gauge steel takes the force of impact.

I haven't had that issue. But I recently had an issue where there was a weird colored block near the center of the screen when it was displaying the backup camera. It did not show up at any other time. It persisted for a few days and I thought that the camera had an issue and was going to take it to the dealer. Then it went away and hasn't been back. I did not take it to the dealer since the issue is no longer present and I know that the dealer is not going to do a thing if they cannot reproduce the issue. If it comes back then I'll take it in right away. I also had an issue a while back where the total engine hours reset and the fuel gauge and speedometer reverted back to metric instead of standard. But that was a one time thing so far as well.

That's awesome! I don't fly as much as I used to, I drive most of the time since Covid started. But I always fly Delta and rent vehicles from Hertz when I do. I've been a contractor in the aerospace industry for 15 years and have done work for companies like Lockheed Martin, Boeing, Raytheon, Dassault, and Spirit to name a few. Most of the time my contracts are in rural areas, which I like. I'm actually sitting at a computer terminal on a contract for Raytheon as I'm typing this. Tonight after work I'll be heading to one of my properties for a couple of days. It's about an 8 hour drive from here.

I travel for a living, so I'm a road warrior. My longest haul was 3000 miles without stopping to sleep. That was from Naples, FL to Boise, ID about 3 years ago. It took me 43 hours. I stopped about every 2 hours for gas and to relieve myself. I'm not a truck driver and I don't use drugs (in case that came to mind). It did involve a lot of Red Bull though. I'm also in my mid-forties, so I'm not a spring chicken. In other words, what you can handle depends on your constitution.

I realize that this is an old post, but that 2nd pic helped me out immensely! I am installing a 2nd battery and I wasn't sure about where I was going to ground it. I was initially going to ground it on the engine block, but now that I can see where the factory ground is at I'm going to ground it in the same location (after I verify the resistance). I didn't see any info on the factory auxiliary battery ground point in the upfitters electrical manual. I'm glad I stumbled onto this pic while searching Google. I'm hooking a winch up to the 2nd battery and the maximum draw is just over 500 amps. The winch will be grounded on the battery though. The 50 amp dc-dc charger I'm installing to keep the battery charged requires a common ground between the primary and auxiliary batteries. So, while none of the winch current should ever flow through the battery ground, I'm still more comfortable using the factory ground points. Thanks again!

Changing tire sizes is a common thing to do. I seen it in racing a lot. There are plenty of aftermarket shops that have the ability to correct your speedometer. It doesn't have to be done at the dealer. In fact, I think it's illegal for the factory to lock out the ability to have the speedometer calibrated since it's a Federal law that a speedometer must be accurate within 5 mph at a speed of 50 mph and there's no law preventing someone from changing their tire size. If the dealers don't want to make some money for a simple adjustment, spend your money somewhere else.

Fair enough. I thought it may be irrelevant, but I linked it just in case. One would think that GM would include instructions on how to install this.

I'm not really interested in doing something like this myself. So I just use Krown. I have had good experiences with them. It's not that expensive (to me) and well worth the cost over the time and work it would take me to do it myself. I didn't get it this year since I just bought my truck in January. But I'll have it done before next winter.

That's awesome for you then. I'm happy that they are working the way you want them to. I found myself still having to get out of the truck to look at the blind side of the trailer when backing up while turning into somewhere. I had hoped that the cameras would prevent me from having to get out of the truck to do that. Part of the issue may have been the small viewing window on the Haloview monitor, it is pretty small when looking at more than 1 camera at a time. I also had to get out of the truck to check overhead clearances. Sure, the cameras helped in some situations, but not as well as I would have liked. They are definitely not a replacement for a good spotter. Maybe I set my expectations too high? In any case, I'm happy with the GM setup.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/236815-lets-install-the-upfitter-switches/

I used the Haloview system on my last trailer. If the side cameras work for you then that's great. For me, I found them to be kind of useless overall. I was hoping they would help me when backing the trailer into a spot while alone and they mostly only seemed to help for checking my blind spots while driving. But the sideview cameras on my truck which come on when I use a turn signal work just fine for that. However, I found the rear camera from Haloview to be helpful. On my new trailer I prefer the transparent trailer option from GM.

I use this in conjunction with Google Maps (I'm also a subscriber which unlocks more features): https://www.rvlife.com/app/ I used to only use Google Maps, but my new trailer is over 13' tall. I really don't want to take out my air conditioner on a low overpass if I'm not paying attention. I also don't want to have to turn around in a tight spot if I am paying attention. So an RV GPS is essential for traveling off of the Interstate. From what I gather, no RV app is completely perfect in every way. But I hear that Garmin is a very good GPS. It also costs several hundred dollars. https://www.garmin.com/en-US/c/automotive/rv-camper-motorhome-gps/

Everyone has to learn something for the first time. Also, after I set my gain at just below having the trailer wheels locking up, I dial it down just a tad bit more if I can feel the trailer pulling the truck just before I come to a complete stop. It probably doesn't hurt anything when the trailer does that, but I don't like it.

Mine was ordered and had 6 miles on it when it arrived at the dealer. The test drives at the factory are included in the odometer. 80 miles is one thing, but I would be worried if my vehicle had 0 miles on it. That means it was never tested.