Chuck FB

A little girl said her prayers every night before bed and she asked G d to watch after each person she loved. One night she forgot to pray for her babysitter and her babysitter died. A few days later she forgot to pray for someone else and they died. The next night she forgot to pray for her dad. The next morning her dad was terrified. A bus almost crashed into him. He almost fell off a fifty foot ladder and almost wrecked on the way home. When he arrived home, he said I had a terrible day. His wife replied, “You think you had a bad day? My aerobics teacher died during class.

Depending on what vintage of Jeep you have, you may have a new enough one that its an open element filter and with little effort pretty easy to examine or if older its a canister and cut it open. It would be interesting to see what if anything shows up on the filter media. What blows me away is watching some of these videos where the person says they are on the 4th oil change with R&P and there are still all sorts of pieces that look like flakes of build up that broke off inside the engine along with smaller particles layering up in the lower part of the filter pleats and the person is saying it looks a lot better than the first filters did ... like holy hell ! LOL. I wish I could get my hands on HPL if I ever chose to try it out but that seems to be a no go here in Canada, I am only guessing that the product gets sucked up so quick in the states that they have no reason to even contemplate having dealers and shipping to another country and all the bs associated with that.

So if I catch that correctly, really there are limited options to use that have the ability to reverse a mess created from too long of an OCI by using Wally World oils. Valvoline R&P being one and as of yet to be proven in real world use with the Mobil Clean. Doesn't HPL have a solution they offer as well as an additive to other oils or a certain oil type that is used as a whole to do a similar job to R&P ?

Uh yes, that's the name of the package. It doesn't quite bring it up to 1 ton specs unfortunately and imagine they have to do that for a numbers reason rather than a physical one. Am I correct though that the Max Trailer Package and therefore the 12" rear is only available on the Duramax and not on any of the L8T 3/4 ton trucks ( and that the same 11.5 rear axle center section is used on the 3/4, 1 ton SRW and even 1 ton dually gas version ) ? I'd also be curious to know if the wheel bearings are the same on a SRW configuration between an 11.5 vs the 12" diff as I assume parts would show that up but may not explain what the difference is if indeed there was a physical difference.

I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate. For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank. In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car. If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ).

You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against. The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide. As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !

This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.

I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off. The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures. I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back.

Glad that worked, and in this case that is all on Autel for somehow dropping the ball for not updating the GMC section properly. I believe in the basic section or unless it is in the advanced, when one does a check of lets say individual sensors for what the pressure is ( and it shows a temperature as well ) , I think it picks up on what the model number of the sensor is in a certain section where you choose "OE" sensor or at least mine is telling me what the model number is and matches to what they actually are and that is the number I quoted in a prior post. I don't recall now if I had said prior that I discovered with my truck anyway that no matter how low I set the placard pressure for the rear tires, if the physical pressure is under 35 psi and I drive it for about 15 miles the pressure warning will come on for one or both rear tires. I am speculating that there is something else in the trucks system that over rides the placard pressure setting once it drops below that minimum pressure to run a metric LT tire at. The weird thing is it does not trigger right away after driving a shorter distance, it took that longer drive for it to trigger. Just something to keep in mind if you were experimenting with pressures below 35 pounds for a tire designed for lower pressures ( larger than stock floatation series tires ) and not being overloaded of course.

True, hard to say what differences there may or may not be between Chev and GM as well as a production year or mid year part change either. I just found it odd that under the Sierra choice on the Autel that many of the last few years of production year did not include the choice of changing the tire pressure but if that is an Autel thing or a GM thing as to why the choices were not there. Knowing what tpms sensors are on the truck should give some guidance into which choices on the tool even make sense to try as I wouldn't give up just yet with the tool but I guess he will see what if anything he comes up with if he finds out a bit more info and tries a few more things on the Autel.

I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America. So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there.

Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !. Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different.

Its just that it worked on 2024 trucks on this forum and my 2025 model truck, unless GM did something since that point to screw up access or Autel has a bad update. I haven't had need to use my tool since last year when I did the changes to the placard pressure settings and since then I updated the software on my Autel but have not plugged into the OBD so hard to say if I would get a surprise as well. All I know last year when I bought the Autel I was warned to be sure to update it before I tried using the unit as they said who knows how long ago unit itself was actually manufactured as the software could be way out of date.

And so you had gone through the process of registering and updating the tool and so on ?. All I can say is that on the front page as the tool fires up you go to advanced mode, then vehicle model comes up and you choose Silverado ( not the DRW or EV since your a single rear wheel ) , then I think its choice 2 which is 07/2021 - 12/2026 ( 433mhz 13542523 ) as that is the series of tpms sensors and then go down to choice 5 which is tire type/pressure selection. Hit yes and it says to connect to OBD port and turn ignition on. Having said this, I updated the software in my tool lately and these year range choices look different from the past due to them doing some updates it would appear and I have not connected up to the OBD port since last year so hopefully I am not in for a surprise with them screwing up the software and that it won't work on my truck anymore either. So my question is, when you plugged into the OBD and started your truck it had that message on the Autel screen "vehicle not supported" ?. That does seem odd as tire shops would be pissed right off if hey can't use their tool on the model year after mine that in theory is supposed to be much the same truck ... unless GM did some change in the computer system to block certain things from access.

Same here, first I bought a few filters to get me going right after I bought my truck to do some short distance initial oil changes, then realized I could buy a case lot for less as they drop the price if filters or trans oil etc is bought by the un opened case lot as well as the discount for buying the vehicle there. So I have filters for a while but its good to know going forward, knowing to expect it to be a different part number and looking filter at the dealer and not be confused over it and think they are handing me the wrong part.

Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?.

I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far.

I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on. I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded. Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install.

I am not techy at all but wondered if you have the truck running but sitting still in park as some functions gray out as soon as the truck is moving. I believe in the settings for updates you can choose for it NOT to update and I wonder by chance if maybe that was chosen before and now it won't allow you to chose to press update, I think that is back in the settings menu where it has all the items one wants on or off etc. Also I assume you have a wifi connection and checked that it has some signal strength, not that it would have anything to do with the grayed out updates choice in that case. What I am thinking out loud of here may be be of no value but thought I would suggest it, sometimes it can be the simplest thing that resolves an issue.

The so called rare failure that some certainly liked to tout ( die hard Ford fan boys ) as per the lifter failing and wiping out the cam. Back when it started happening the blame was being pointed to the lifters and honestly I never did hear anything myself conclusively one way or the other on that. Ford themselves in I believe 2024 had a technical bulletin I will call it that came out and for some engine platforms they were reprograming the engines idle speed but also they had a software update for the oil pump which then some time later was said what that software update did as to be increasing the oil pressure at idle. It is a good question if that issue was completely solved as one Ford specialist mechanic youtuber said he saw failures after that time period. Like anything there would be the variables, what oil is being used and the OCI and how much idle time gets put on an engine. I've seen some comments to claim that the L8T isn't so happy with high idle time either but I also know that companies that require their vehicle to idle a lot on the job don't tend to get the oil changed often enough for all those hours of idle time and go off of the odometer.

You may have come across this chart before and ironically this is a Toyo printed chart but it applies to all brands of tire types typically sold in north america since they build the tires off of the same standardized guide lines. Page 32 I think is where you will find your tire size and type to use as a guide along with weighing each axle individually to figure out your minimum pressure you can carry safely at highway speed. See what your tire guy comes up with as I would be surprised if they don't have a tool that can do it as long as they know how to navigate the tool to find the right area for placard reprogramming. Application of Load Inflation Tables Version 2020-7

Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line. I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use. If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight.

I had a similar but different response when I talked to the service manager where I bought my truck in that he said GM corporate won't allow them to lower the placard pressure setting as they would get their hand slapped but that of course they have the ability to make that change. His suggestion was simply go to a tire dealer or third party shop that is willing to reset the pressures lower. However I chose to buy a tpms tool and partly based off of this very forum as it had been proven to work on the 2024 model ( Global B system ) and while I could have paid lots for a full two way diag tool, I didn't want to spend that much and bought the recommended Autel TS 508 and it will reprogram the 2025 model and assume it should do the 2026 as well. However the tool is rather proprietary to reprogramming Autel tpms sensors so that is a function I will never use, where as a real two way scanner would have many uses but also have yearly subscriptions etc where this 508 is free updates for as long as they put updates out for the unit. In any event it worked to lower the placard pressures and I often use it to adjust my actual tire pressures although will check with a mechanical gauge as well sometimes just to make sure that tires tpms sensor isn't lying to me. My suggestion is either buy a tool that you know will work to adjust the system or start out by getting the tire shop you bought your tires from to reset your truck and if after that you still want a unit to do it yourself, get one at that point.

They are talking about adding more tax to our fuel across Canada by the labour day time frame, its the carbon idiot tax increase on top of the pile of fuel taxes we already pay thanks to the WEF dictatorship running the country. 10 cents per liter on gas and 4 cents a liter on diesel I believe is what was said. That is a huge amount of a tax increase as its another 38 cents equivalent to a US gallon of gas. The reason our fuel is higher than the states already is because of of the high taxes they have imposed on fuel.