nfisherman

I don’t know if this is your issue. In my ‘26 HD, this is controlled by a Comfort and Convenience setting in the DIC. Mine was bugging me until I found the setting. It was delivered with the max auto fan setting on “medium.” The high setting is an option and there’s a warning that high will be noisier. No kidding! I changed the setting and now it does what I want.

I've been shopping between Real Truck and Peragon covers. I don't even have my truck yet. it's on a train somewhere and should arrive in the next week. I think I'm going to order the Peragon cover. I think it will work for me.

In hindsight, I should have had my battery tested when things started acting weird. My battery was only 35 months old. It was the original Delco battery in my 2019 Yukon. I did notice the 42-month free replacement sticker on the battery but it was a holiday weekend and our other car was already in the shop. I skipped the warranty with the dealer and bought a new battery to keep the family mobile over the weekend. All is well now.

I’ve been annoyed with my entertainment system for about six months. I put my music on a usb drive and set it to shuffle play. Every other day or so, the system would turn the shuffle off. I’m out of warranty and I wasn’t having other problems so I chalked it up as a first world problem and moved on. Yesterday, my battery was dead as a hammer and I bought a new one. As a side benefit the entertainment system works perfectly. I think the voltage was dropping when the engine was off and some memory settings weren’t retained. Have your battery checked if you’re having weird electronic problems.

I bought a travel trailer this week. It weighs 7,500#/750# tongue weight. I had the trailer dealer install a weight distributing hitch. The trailer dealer told me that I should disconnect my autoride system when towing with the hitch because the autoride system could be damaged. A friend is also shopping for a trailer and his dealer told him the same thing. They both said I should pull the fuse for the autoride system to avoid overpressuring and damaging my shocks. That doesn't make sense to me because the weight distributing hitch should take most of the pressure off of the tow vehicle. I've been through my manual and I can find nothing that says I should disconnect my autoride system while towing anything. I figured I'd ask here because trailer dealers know trailers but not necessarily cars. Should I disconnect my autoride compressor when towing? Does anyone have a reference that says one way or the other? Thanks.

I had this problem with my 2019 Yukon XL Denali. There is a service bulletin about it and there is a long thread somewhere on this forum about it. It comes down to a small antenna located, I think, above the headliner near one of the rear windows. I found the service bulletin and showed my service manager. He confirmed the problem and replaced the antenna under warranty. My remotes have worked perfectly since then.

It's hard to say what's wrong without knowing which code was generated. I had a similar problem with my 2015 Sierra. I don't recall the specific code, but it was related to a faulty catalytic converter. I had been using 87 octane gas from a cheap gas station near my office almost exclusively. I went to a station that advertised top tier gas. I filled up with a tank of 93 octane. It worked for me. The light went off after about 200 miles. You might want to give that a try. It won't hurt anything.

You have to lock the doors before the remote start will work. When you unlock the doors to get in - after the remote start - the seats will adjust if you have that feature programmed.

Thanks for the idea. I didn't even need YouTube. I just took a Roku off one of my TVs and plugged it into my HDMI port and the AC adaptor into my inverter. I set the rear screen input to HDMI and connected the Roku to the car's wifi hotspot. It worked perfectly.

I wouldn't bother with swapping the DIC in a truck that old. I would either buy a battery shutoff or add a battery tender and keep it plugged in while the truck is unused.

Yep. There's another thread about this on here somewhere. It happened to me last month. All fixed under warranty.

Never mind. I figured it out. The app is only supposed to work on a phone or tablet, not the rear screens. That doesn't make much sense to me, but that's the way it is. There's an app for the infotainment system, but it's not the same. It pretty much only gets CNN. No thanks.

Could someone tell me how to use the new WM Ride app to stream video to the rear seat screens? I have an active wifi connection in my Yukon. I downloaded the app on my phone. The app only works when connected to the in-vehicle wifi connection. I can play video in the app on my phone. When I try to play the video on my rear seat screens, I get a prompt telling me to connect the phone to the rear seat wifi and enter a password. When I do that, it breaks the wifi connection to the vehicle hot spot and the app quits working. I'm probably missing something obvious, but I can't find any online instructions about how to make this work. Thanks.

It's $80 at my dealer for an 8-qt. oil change and tire rotation. It costs me about $50 for the oil and filter. I don't have the equipment to easily do the tire rotation. It's worth the extra $30 to me to let the dealer do it. For that $30, my tires get rotated, I don't make a mess in my garage and I don't have to deal with the used oil.

I don't buy extended warranties. I'd rather keep the $2 thousand or more in my pocket and pay for the repairs, if needed. I put about 25,000 miles per year on my vehicles. A lot of repairs seem to relate to time more than mileage. The warranties would usually expire based on mileage for me before I ever use them. A warranty may have paid off on a vehicle or two over my lifetime, but I've saved a lot of money over the years by not buying them.

I second the Rock Auto/TYC recommendation. I have three teenage drivers. I have replaced lights. I've had good results from TYC and fair pricing from Rock Auto.

They’ve been pretty good to me over the years. I go there for oil changes because they charge about the same amount as it would cost me to buy materials and do it myself. I had the defective vacuum pump problem with my 15 Sierra, before it became a recall. The cost was going to be about $1,000. They contacted GM and got some help for me. The cost came down to $200.

Here's a link for P0449: https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0449-chevy-silverado/ Here's one for P0300 https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0300-gmc-sierra/ Oops. I just noticed this was in the as a GM technician forum. I'm not. I just read the message and thought I could help narrow it down. Feel free to ignore. Merry Christmas.

A flashing check engine light means it's an urgent problem and you could damage the engine by continuing to drive. You should buy or borrow a code scanner and read the error code(s). That will at least give you an idea of what's wrong and what you need to buy/replace.

You don't mention a Check Engine light. Is it on? Have you checked for any error codes? Those would give you a good idea of where to look.

That looks to me like something rubbed on the paint at that spot and wore through the clearcoat and into the basecoat. I wouldn't worry about it.

Check your trailer brake fuse. This happened to me after a friend tried to unplug a trailer from my Yukon. He pulled up at weird angle and apparently shorted something. I got that error message and found that the fuse was blown. It's a strange slow-blow fuse that I couldn't find at a parts store, but the dealer only charged me $2 for it. All was well after that.

Update: My dealer called and said they found the service bulletin I mentioned. They don't have the part, but will keep the car overnight and replace the antenna amplifier tomorrow. As a bonus, it was also time for an oil change. The mechanic found a leaking oil line. That will be replaced under the warranty. All will be well again tomorrow.

Thanks, Mike. I have a service appointment on Monday. This will be handy if the dealer says he can’t find the problem.

I have a 2019 Yukon XL Denali. I'm having trouble with the keyless remote. The lock/unlock function only works intermittently when I press the button on the door handle. I've changed the battery in my #1 remote. It didn't help. I also tried the #2 remote with the same result. The remote start and lock/unlock buttons on the remotes work perfectly. Only the keyless entry is a problem. The Yukon is still under the bumper to bumper warranty. I have an appointment with the dealer. Before I take the time. I'm just wondering if there's anything else I can check. I had the windshield replaced recently. Could that be an issue? Where is the antenna for the keyless entry located? Thanks.