Jump to content

Wires

Member
  • Content count

    715
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Wires last won the day on January 7 2012

Wires had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

18 Good

About Wires

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  1. Sounds like you need to lay down the doobie and actually read. Where was I mentioning 4 wheelers? Nowhere.... I'm talking on driving on a 2-lane highway, meeting motorcycle riders. You CLAIM that DRL on motorcycles makes you less safe. Your words not mine buddy..... I'm still confused why anyone wants to disable safety equipment. You really think GM wastes money engineering lights that turn on with the key because they want less profits? Think about it....
  2. Radio problems

    You could just grab one from a wrecker. It's just a matter of pulling on the bezel around the radio, and then a couple screws hold it to the dash. Antenna unplugs from the rear as well as a couple connectors. Super easy to swap....
  3. That makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. Ever drive on 2-lane blacktop? You see DRL 2x further down the road than no headlights (hence the reason they are mandated in Canada). I see motorcycle riders with DRL, and it makes 100% difference if you pull out to pass someone. A lot of bikers pick black outfits + black bikes that blend perfectly into the asphalt. no DRL would just be more organ donors for those riders...
  4. If you look at the graphs, they have a couple of stepped areas (arrows are within the center steps). It is normal to add positive camber to the fronts to aid in steering response, and negaive camber to the rears for better traction when cornering. I see what you are saying, but shooting for a "0" in each box doesn't give optimum driving experience.
  5. Locksmith will get you a key if the locks have numbers on them. The mfr probably won't be able to help you with keys (they would just buy lock sets and have them installed).
  6. I'm with Northman. If you're ok with the body, then I'd probably drive it until it dies. What you are experiencing with the oil smoke on startup is classic chevy lifter seals wearing out. Oil pools on the top of the valves, and then slowly leaks in when you stop (and burns on the next start). Not really a big deal, just stay on top of checking the oil.
  7. It was my buddy's '88 Chevy, but I'm assuming nothing much has changed in the diff design. We were out driving some rural roads, and it would happen hitting bumps. I thought it was the steady bearing, but it wasn't the case. At the end, he had to drive with a little pressure on the brake. As long as it was "loaded" a bit and not free wheeling it seemed fine. When we got back to his place, we will the diff cover off, and the spider dropped out in pieces, and thanks to the nice journey we did, it shredded the teeth off the ring gear as well. The only thing keeping the truck going was the metallic sludge in the oil! If it is in the diff, the sooner you find out the better. Otherwise you can cause more damage in there. I have heard of just a tooth breaking off as well.
  8. I'd be guessing an issue withg the rear diff (spider gear exploded). Similar thing happened to my friends truck years ago.
  9. I feel your pain OP. I clay bar/wax mine every year. Other day I walk out of Home Depot, and do a WTF!?! There is a dime sized spot on the vertical face of the passenger rear fender lip that has no paint. After closer inspection, there is a bunch of other cancer spots in that same area that's popped up since last spring. I've had the same on the front/rear bumpers as well. Really disappointing considering it hardly has no miles.
  10. It is part of the newer vehicles (like intheburbs) said. There are no flashers in the newer trucks, it's all done through the BCM, with a fake "clicker" sound that plays through the sound system to mimic the old style flasher sound.
  11. Battery Drain

    First I'd ensure the battery is fine. My 2008 had a POS battery right from new (if I left it a week in the garage, the battery was stone dead). There was a recall/repogramming done due to the BSM (I think that was the case) where it wouldn't turn off, and would drain the battery. You should check to see if you unit is effected by that. If that is all fine, they I'd hook an ammeter on between the positive battery terminal and the lead from the battery (inline). When you first connect it, the BSM, ECM, etc will draw a lot of power (amps) and then drop down to zero after a couple of minutes. If you still see a noticeable draw (more than 100-200 milliamps), then start pulling fuses until it goes away. That should point to the smoking gun. My guess is it's just one of the first two though. If the battery is OEM, it's probably bad.
  12. Wheel alignment? My car was off and it scrubbed off the inside on the driver front (and the the driver rear because I got clever and rotated them, and didn't fix the root issue). With rack and pinion, both fronts don't wear the same as the old style steering (it used to be if had the alignemnt off, both front wheels would wear the same).
  13. oil pump going bad?

    Personally, I'd just toss on a mechincal guage to confirm before speculating on anything. It could be bad gauge cluster to blown motor. That's a wide range from phew to fark....
  14. I'd assume it's ok, but you can just swap the ECM from the 2000 as well, which should eliminate any issues if they were. (but I'm not an expert in this situation...)
  15. oil pump going bad?

    Typically that sort of behavior from the cluster is either a bad sending unit, or stepper in the cluster. (The mechanical guage reading would sort that out). Ticking can be caused by many things. My '00 5.3L had a tick, and it was an exhaust leak my the manifold. My '08 6.2L has the TSB diesel chatter sound while it warms up.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.