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blackout07 last won the day on December 26 2014

blackout07 had the most liked content!

About blackout07

  • Birthday 11/16/1980

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    07 Silverado 4x4

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Senior Enthusiast (11/11)



  1. Update: I still have the truck and it only has 38+k miles on it so I decided to freshen it up a bit. So I picked up an LTZ grille and painted the chrome.
  2. What's the brand on the suspension, and what size tire do you want to run?
  3. I don't know your color or interior trim but this might help. Ebony rear seat cup holder is 15914571 if you have the jump seat.
  4. IMO coilivers are a luxury and and in no way necessary. So if you're looking to save then don't get them. In all honesty they're a show piece for most trucks that will never really see Offroad use.
  5. Installed Katzkin leather...finally, and I must say it sucked. It was a pain in the butt. Let's just say I think I'll pay for installation if the need ever arises again.
  6. I spent the better parts of the last three days installing Katzkin leather. I'm gonna say installing a suspension is easier.
  7. I would typically agree with the above statement except for when all you're paying extra for is branding. Most of the reputable replicas are made by the same folks as "GM" wheels. I've had a couple of sets and not one issue.
  8. Lol at RC "tech" support. Notice he did not answer all of your questions? You can search the web high and low and not find a single company with more bad reviews than RC. I'll answer your questions. Their control arms are notoriously faulty (search and you shall see). The diff drops will give you a 1.5" drop, which is sufficient but leaves you with the equivalent of 2" of angle on your CVs. Your tie rods and lower control arms will remain in the stock position, which in addition to the above means that no...you will NOT have stock suspension angles. That kit has been ripped off and thrown away at almost the same rate as used condoms. If you want a kit that maintains front end geometry, then look at kits that include taller spindles (knuckles), and a subframe. The sub frame that, for whatever reason,scares people to death, is what makes room for a greater diff drop and corrects LCA angles. That's what you want if you want flat angles and relatively no added stress on parts. It's not hard to find out what's good and what's not with all of the various forums that have beaten this topic to death for years, but I think your mind is already made up. Best of luck.
  9. The RC link gives an error and the Fabtech kit is precisely what I warned against above. No subframe = no good. Seriously just remove the 3" spacer, drop to a 2.5" leveling kit and then do a 1.5" body lift. Bingo! 4" of clean, part and money saving lift. Well under budget.
  10. Budget lifts are hot sells for those who don't know better. They are band-aid kits and do more harm in the end. Much like the 3" kit you have now. These cheap lifts use a modest diff drop to correct CV angles and some include new UCAs that are angled to prevent them from bottoming out on the droop stop, but do very little to correct the angle of the ball joints. Your TREs and LCAs meanwhile, still suffer the full brunt of a 4" lift. The result? Rapidly worn parts and a stiff ride. Sure people will say, "Mine is great." "Mine rides better than stock." But let's be honest. Most people are inclined to defend what they buy, especially when they've been told better. And never trust the shop SELLING it to give you an honest recommendation. And it's a contradiction of common sense to think a lifted truck with heavy wheels and tires will ride better than a stock setup. That's just never going to be the case. So with that said, to get a decent 4" suspension lift, you will ultimately pay the same price for a 6" kit. If money is a sticking point go down to a 2.5" leveling kit and add a 1.5" body lift.
  11. Re-torque everything. I had a slight popping not too long ago and found my sway bar was loose. Do that before you spend any money.
  12. They come in -12, -19, and -24. So the likely answer is you have three -24 wheels and one -12. Crawl under the truck and check the inside of each wheel. The info should be stamped somewhere.
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