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Spurshot

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Everything posted by Spurshot

  1. I performed warranty on my old 2008 truck that my brother bought from me 6 months ago. We replaced the 140,000 mile upper control arms, which had worn ball joints, with the UCAs from my 2014 which had only 10,000 miles on them when I replaced them with the Cognito UCAs. About 1 1/2 hrs total, with a tire rotation in there to boot. I also got my gun drawers back from the bed of the old 08 and put them in the 2014.
  2. Jim, That's a 34" tire. Some guys have gotten them to fit with a 275 width. It's all about wheel offset. You should check your clearances with the tires you have and calculate how much the new tire size will reduce those clearances. Have a friend turn the wheels to the stop and hold them there (engine running) while you measure or use the seatbelt to hold the steering wheel at the stops. Measure the clearances around the plastic well liner, the sway bar and whatever else is close. If a person is holding the steering wheel, be sure to tell them you'll be in the wheel well and your safety depends on them not moving the wheel. I used a seat belt. You definitely can go up to a 285 width or even 295 if you go to a 33" diameter tire.
  3. A white truck and a brown lab...that's me too.
  4. There's a short list of things that are downsides. Lower fuel economy at high speeds (low speeds shouldn't be affected much) some have reported harsher ride (due to the steeper angle of the A-arms) There were many reports of upper ball joint premature wear-outs with this same suspension in the GMT900 when 2.5" levels were installed (over limiting the ball joint angle) I'm sure we'll hear more of this on this model The roll center is lifted and therefore body roll is increased in cornering/evasive maneuvering lower checking account balance due to need for new tires, wheels, upper control arms, bull bars, etc., which all work to lower fuel economy more and lower your checking balance even further But it's all in good fun and recreation.
  5. From what I can gather, the tread difference between the MT and AT will help you most (going to the AT) for power/fuel required to turn them at constant speed (highway). The weight should help with reducing the power/fuel needed for the acceleration in city driving.
  6. I believe the in-rush current of some OEM (good guy) ballasts is higher than some of the laughter market stuff. A high current capable circuit is important to consistant good performance.
  7. Morris, From what little I've read, the ballasts tend to be voltage variation tolerant. But your comment about an unregulated power source got me thinking. Our whole vehicle is on the battery. Aren't batteries a common method of regulating component voltage in a circuit? I'm not an electrical engineer, just to level set. The alternator output is regulated, usually to something like 14.5 volts.
  8. I guess I haven't seen this issue in the threads. This one looks pretty decent. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152762-hid-headlight-bulbs-hid-projector-retrofit/page-33
  9. I believe the Rigid D series has a mounting kit that some have used here. That kit with the new light above, would be a great street legal and useful fog light. We should move over to the other thread if this is going much further. Silverado guys should check out "Baggedvintera" white truck with the quad Rigid D series lights. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/156170-led-fog-bulbs-lights/page-26?do=findComment&comment=1540288
  10. Just to be clear, charging more than another shop doesn't mean they are 'ripping you off'.
  11. If you check out the "LED Fog lights and Bulbs" thread, you should find some Silverado setups with 2 of the D series lights in each of the fog light positions.
  12. Wait for the Rigid Dually DOT/SAE approved fog light http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/50481 ... Or think about retrofitting these. The factory fogs with high output bulbs won't come close to the performance of these, in terms of useful, controlled light for actual foggy conditions, that won't blind oncoming traffic or you because of light scatter reflecting off the fog and back at you. Notice these have a sharp top cutoff and foreground limiting beam (prevents lighting the road directly in front of the vehicle, which reflects back at the driver), resulting in a narrow horizontal strip of light
  13. Seems like Rhino and Linex had colors available. I recall getting in and out of a friend's 1 ton to get our luggage every night on a trip years ago. He and his brother were both short and old, the truck bed was tall, I was younger. It had black Linex. .... I had black Linex. My clothes looked like I had worked in a coal mine. Get the UV protected version.
  14. This is a case where ebay has a bazillion choices.
  15. Somewhere you have a reversed polarity. Sorry, I should have quoted you so you got an email. check polarity
  16. Surprisingly, the plater said 7-10 biz days.
  17. They're currently powder coated and, of course, only available powder coated.
  18. I picked up my new wheels at UPS and check fit them on the front suspension for proper clearance, then took them to an industrial chromeplate shop that does wheels for Toyota TRD and other wheel stores. They do some nice work. I got the nickel tour of the shop. More later.
  19. I see you didn't turn on all the LED bars and pods. With all that power, you'd probably burn off all the fog.
  20. Pretty fuzzy pix. Maybe a higher res?
  21. It's my perception after reading a bit that the difference in light output isn't huge between 35 to 50 watts. I could be wrong. But I decided to stick with 35w OEM ballasts and the best name brand (not Morimoto) Osram bulbs I could buy for my projector retrofit. I think a good bulb may be as good as some high watt cheap bulb setups, and I like the idea of an OEM ballast and recognized maker bulb. I'm not happy with the Morimoto standard bulb longevity or performance as they age (3-4 months). Here's my choices in my full retrofit plan. Lexus RX-350 non-AFS projectors, Clear lens conversion, Osram CBI bulbs, Matsushita OEM 35w ballasts. I can wire up my own harness to fit my routing.
  22. Sorry, I shouldn't have jumped down your throat. I just don't like aftermarket parts that don't fit right. One of my pet peeves. In this pic, you can see RC took a direct line to the bushing on that leg of the UCA. The tube cuts across over to the bushing and intersects it at an angle. (the tubes on the outside of the pic) On the Cognito, they put a dog leg in the beam to that side, which goes in to the bushing at a straight approach. (the leg by the logo)
  23. Well, it really isn't about whether you disagree or not. The fact is it doesn't make them fit my truck. You can see in the picture that the full camber/caster adjustment isn't possible with the RC UCA, even after I ground over 1/2" off my frame, down to the point of the camber/caster indexing cam pin. Regardless of the leveling, the UCA has to travel the same path unimpeded when the suspension compresses. RC just didn't put the small dogleg in the beam like the factory and every other UCA maker selling them for this truck. The facts are that the control arms were represented to me by a RC sales staffer to work with King shocks at 2" level and that full factory range of adjustment is not achievable with the RC UCA. You might want to check your UCAs for rubbing on the frame in this area during full suspension travel.
  24. No such thing as "perfect size". Just what you like...and sometimes even that changes. Pretty quickly sometimes. If you're not going off-road, stick with a mild A/T type tread or even a street tread. You'll be happier in the long run. They are quieter, ride nice, and generally have less rolling resistance.
  25. Your question will get more experienced responses over on the HID PLANET forum. Just about every 50+ watt user I've read about was using a 3" projector.
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