studly

My 2021 Suburban controls do not have the hill descent button. It looks like b0hr found the right part to substitute to get the camera function. But, if I add the button assembly that peterlawl84 used, will I also get a working descent button? Is that plug and play also?

It's a seller's market for trucks right now. If you don't need it, you might want to cash in. However, if you need to go back, you'll pay through the nose.

Interesting. So, I connected my phone to the car WiFi. It warned something like "limited connectivity" because I don't have an account for the Suburban built-in phone. However, wireless CarPlay worked! And my phone still had Internet connectivity (presumably through my phone provider). So, it works after all (if you know what to do).

Today, I used weather stripping to pad the support points for the rear storage cover. The "thunking" is gone.

I experienced more of the clunking noise today. Interestingly, it seems more prevalent when I have something in the back cargo area. I am starting to think it is the hinged door over the rear cargo storage compartment that is making the noise. I put a bunch of towels over the contact areas to see if that dampens the noise.

I've been disappointed that my Apple CarPlay does not work wirelessly in my 2021 Suburban. If I plug in with a cable, it works. Without the cable, I can't make it work (although phone calls work without a cable). By all accounts, it looks like CarPlay should work wirelessly but doesn't. Anyway, last week, I rented a 2021 Lincoln. Apple CarPlay worked perfectly between that and my phone with no cables. Any ideas?

On bumpy roads, I get "clunk" sounds from the back of my 2021 Suburban. It was particularly annoying went I drove out west this summer and drove some highways with closely spaced joints. It was clunk after clunk. I suspect it is the rear window but, upon inspection, I can't find anything wrong with it. On smooth roads, it is quiet. Anybody else experience anything like this?

I have about 6000 miles on my 2021 Suburban. Overall, I am extremely happy with it. My change recommendation is to make the control center "Home" button closer to the display. When I am using CarPlay and want to use one of the regular control center functions (e.g. camera), I have to go searching well below the display for the "Home" button to get back to the regular controls. This is not so easy when you're driving and trying to maintain control. The "Home" button should be right there and very obvious.

In the past two days, I noticed that the radio in my 2021 Suburban was not shutting off when I stopped the engine and opened the door. In one instance, I shut off the vehicle, locked the doors, went into a convenience store and, when I came back out, the radio was still playing. Today, after similar events, I arrived back home and pulled in the driveway (within my WiFi range) and the display said that there was a software update to perform. I let it perform the update and, now, the radio shuts off properly when I stop the engine and open the door.

My 2021 Chevy Suburban has an SD memory slot in the center console. There is no documentation for it. What is it for? Also, the owner's manual does talk about using USB devices for playing music through the radio. However, when I plug in USB devices (e.g. USB flash drive) with music, nothing happens. What am I doing wrong?

My 2021 Suburban is my fourth generation of Suburban so I'm very familiar with how they drive in general. The new 10-speed transmission was the best upgrade. I am loving it -- especially for towing up hills where it is no longer "hunting" for the right gear -- going back and forth between a gear that races the motor and a gear that lugs the motor. However, in some instances when letting off the gas, I noticed a decelerating effect that I had never experienced before. I wasn't sure if I liked this or if it was supposed to do this. I wondered if this would hurt gas mileage. But, after a couple of tanks of gas, I'm finding that I'm getting about a full mile-per-gallon better than my last Suburban. What convinced me that it is supposed to do this is when I tow downhill. It is clearly using the engine to brake. It works so well it almost seems too smart. Recently, I noticed that is able to measure the inclination of the vehicle (i.e. the angle of going uphill or downhill). You can display the up/down and left/right angles on the dash. Is it using this information to select the amount of engine braking? Seems like it is. And, to me, that is pretty darn smart.

I'm happy to report that the dealer agreed to compensate me for this damage.

I purchased a new 2021 cherry red tintcoat Suburban two weeks ago. Today, I was washing and waxing it for the first time. This required standing on a step ladder to access the roof. When I got to the spoiler over the back window, I discovered that it had been damaged and touched up! I can't be sure if this was done at the factory or at the dealer. I'm debating how to deal with this.

Last month truck had thick blue smoke out of the tailpipe on warm start. Twice in two days, and hasn't done it since. Oil level is fine. Thick puffs of smoke on startup is when my problems started. Get that Range device to keep your engine in 8-cylinder mode.

I found the TSB here: http://www.silveradosierra.com/vortec-5-3l-v8/tsb-10-06-01-008g-engine-oil-consumption-jan-2013-t70745.html

Almost 77,000 miles.

Just for hoots, I rechecked my oil today before I added any. It was only 1/4 quart low! Last night I checked it after driving home from work. I probably should have let it sit longer before I checked it. It seems the fix was better than I thought. 1/4 quart in 2070 miles is not too shabby. I'm going to keep tracking the oil usage. Then, after I have some confidence in what it uses, I will try removing the Range AFM disabler and see what happens.

My 2008 Suburban was consuming 2 quarts in 2000 miles. The dealer upgraded my rocker arm cover, installed the AFM oil deflector in the oil pan and cleaned out the carbon. Furthermore, I installed the Range AFM disabler. Just tonight I checked the oil for the first time (it's been too cold). After 2070 miles, the oil level was in the very middle of the hash marks (approximately 1/2 quart low). I'd say the fixes worked pretty darn well. I consider 2 quarts to 0.5 quarts a major improvement.

I retract this statement. I think I misread the TSB. It looks the the problem affects motors from 2007 to 2011. Certain 2007-8 motors get a different valve cover than 2009-11 motors.

I̶t̶ l̶o̶o̶k̶s̶ l̶i̶k̶e̶ t̶h̶e̶ a̶l̶u̶m̶i̶n̶u̶m̶ b̶l̶o̶c̶k̶s̶ g̶o̶t̶ t̶h̶e̶ f̶i̶x̶ i̶n̶ m̶i̶d̶-2̶0̶0̶9̶.̶ ̶ Y̶o̶u̶ h̶a̶v̶e̶ a̶ 4̶x̶4̶.̶ ̶ I̶ d̶o̶n̶'̶t̶ t̶h̶i̶n̶k̶ t̶h̶a̶t̶ h̶a̶s̶ a̶n̶ a̶l̶u̶m̶i̶n̶u̶m̶ b̶l̶o̶c̶k̶.̶

T̶h̶e̶ T̶S̶B̶ i̶n̶d̶i̶c̶a̶t̶e̶s̶ t̶h̶a̶t̶ G̶M̶ s̶t̶a̶r̶t̶e̶d̶ e̶q̶u̶i̶p̶p̶i̶n̶g̶ s̶o̶m̶e̶ m̶o̶t̶o̶r̶s̶ w̶i̶t̶h̶ t̶h̶e̶ f̶i̶x̶e̶s̶ i̶n̶ 2̶0̶0̶9̶ b̶u̶t̶ o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶s̶ u̶p̶ t̶o̶ 2̶0̶1̶1̶ s̶t̶i̶l̶l̶ r̶e̶q̶u̶i̶r̶e̶ t̶h̶e̶ f̶i̶x̶e̶s̶.̶ S̶o̶,̶ i̶f̶ y̶o̶u̶ h̶a̶v̶e̶ a̶ 2̶0̶1̶2̶ o̶r̶ n̶e̶w̶e̶r̶,̶ y̶o̶u̶ p̶r̶o̶b̶a̶b̶l̶y̶ d̶o̶n̶'̶t̶ n̶e̶e̶d̶ t̶o̶ w̶o̶r̶r̶y̶ a̶b̶o̶u̶t̶ t̶h̶i̶s̶ A̶F̶M̶ o̶i̶l̶ c̶o̶n̶s̶u̶m̶p̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ p̶r̶o̶b̶l̶e̶m̶.̶ Statement withdrawn upon further investigation

The Technical Service Bulletin allocates 5.7 hours for the repair. I asked why it was so much. I was told pretty much what you just wrote. It's a sizeable job to remove the oil pan.

I have a 2008 4WD Suburban with 5.3L. Here is what they used for my vehicle: 12639759 Deflector 12612350 Gasket 12570427 Cover

I'd like to see how well the "fixes" for this oil consumption problem work. Can we set up a poll? Something like this: If you had an oil consumption problem with your GM 5.3L V8 *and* had one of the following fixes performed, was the oil consumption problem fixed? (our definition of "oil consumption problem" = more than 1 quart every 2000 miles) Possible fixes: 1) Valve cover replacement 2) AFM shield in oil pan 3) Range AFM disable device Possible answers: a) Did (1) and it worked. b) Did (1) and it didn't work. c) Did (1) and (2) and it worked. d) Did (1) and (2) and it didn't work. e) Did (3) and it worked. f) Did (3) and it didn't work. g) Did (1) and (2) and (3) and it worked. h) Did (1) and (2) and (3) and it didn't work. i) Did more extensive work (e.g. rings and/or pistons).

I still don't understand the mechanism of this failure. How does AFM make it suck oil? What is different when AFM is engaged? And how do the rings go bad? One post said the problem is that oil gets sucked through the PCV valve into the manifold. How does that make the rings go bad? Also, I can understand the valve cover change to help prevent oil from going into the PCV valve. What does the AFM shield in the oil pan do?