asilverblazer

Wonder what level of scan tool would be able to take over control of (or at least monitor) the oil pump solenoid... turn it off and see if the miss fire clears up. The only way oil pressure could affect engine performance would be through the DFM lifters. Maybe the oil pump and pressure are as intended (no codes) and the lifter is the problem. In other words, so what if the oil pressure spikes - none of the other cylinders have a problem with it.

You can use the regulator... but it isn't helping anything and sounds like it is causing problems. Bypassing or removing it will fill the tires faster and easier. A nail gun isn't using the volume that filling a tire is. Generally speaking and some what in line with Richards comment, a consumer grade compressor isn't going to develop so much pressure that it needs to be regulated to properly run (protect) consumer grade tools. That being the case I'd say that most uses for compressed air are the more volume and pressure the better. Putting the regulator on is just inviting more issues. The reason its in the manual and it suggests to use it the way they have is to prevent someone from blowing up something like putting 110PSI in a lawnmower tire rated for 15PSI.

I wonder if the incorrect oil pressure is causing a weak DFM lifter to act up?

So there was 110 PSI in the tank, about 30 PSI over the regulator setting and 40 PSI over the tire. The first 'burst' engaged the regulator, now only 80 PSI at the chuck, only 10 PSI over what the tire is. A small pressure differential will fill slowly. Sounds like a problem with the regulator. The compressor won't come on because pressure in the tank never fell below the pressure switch setting. The tank still had air pressure in it. Yes and no, that behavior is accurate except that your regulator is in the way. Like noted above, bypassing the regulator will let you inflate the tires using 110 PSI instead of what the regulator is set at (Its 'set' at 80 but I bet its closer to 70). The pressure switch is set at 110 PSI max, below the tanks max so as not to blow it up... safety factor. The regulator is the root cause of the issue describe, I'd remove it. Then the compressor will cycle, fill the tank to 110 PSI and shut off. Once the air has been bled off to the pressure switch minimum (60 PSI?) it will come back on. If there is more air in the tire than what the minimum PSI is on the compressor switch you could have a situation where the tire has 65 PSI, the tank has 65 PSI and the compressor won't come on until it goes lower than 60 PSI(?), meaning no rise in tire pressure. You would have to manually bleed off more air in the tank to get below the switch setting to fill the tank (and tire) back up. I don't know what the minimum on your pressure switch is though.

I would thoroughly check all grounds and cables, not just at the battery.

Mt memory recollection is there are no suspension differences... except Z71 swaps out the shock/strut for the Rancho branded one.

Top mount Rubber insulator Boot Jounce bumper Spring Lower plastic insulator Strut https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-2017-chevrolet-silverado-1500--lt--5-3l-v8-gas/suspension--shocks-and-struts

...come by one Saturday and we'll do it.

I think I'd consider buying another kit of 'pucks'... (or lynch pins or other similar to insert in the puck openings) and cut the top off them (the ball and chain loops), and weld them to my own frame. A 2" angle iron frame, some bolts welded on protruding in to imbed in the concrete to secure it to the frame. Plywood form boards with you imbedded eye hooks. Sounds pretty simple to build to me. And mud tires.

Fist your truck must have a gooseneck hitch installed. The hole in the bed where the ball inserts is what the hitch you linked uses for securing it in the bed. The center pin on the plate/rails you linked inserts into the gooseneck hole where the ball would normally insert. The locking pin that normally secures the ball goes through a hole on the center pin of the plate/rails. This prevents it from being lifted back out of the truck and keeps the entire assembly of rails from spinning. It is common for the gooseneck ball to rust/seize inside the bed. If you permanently attach a large heavy weight to the rails kit you linked and the center pin seizes or rusts in place... the "box filled with concrete" would make getting it back off the truck exceptionally hard.

I'm convinced a diesel electric hybrid is the best solution for a truck. Small diesel engine to power on board generator. Runs at a fixed RPM so its tuned for a specific condition, far more efficient, less emissions, less noise, less weight. On board battery pack (small) to power electric motors. Can be charged from the grid or via the on board generator. Short trips wouldn't need to run the diesel generator and are electric only. Long trips use the generator. Smaller size reduces weight. Re fuel times just like what we are accustomed to, and utilize the vast fueling infrastructure already in place. Long trips aren't disrupted by hours long recharge times. As long as the generator is fueled, there is electric power to keep traveling. Regenerative braking. Electric instant torque. Use the diesel generator for heat vs. the inefficient electric heat. Export power from the onboard generator to RV's, job-sites, tail gating, or as stand by for home emergencies. Engine malfunction, limp home on electric. Battery dead, run off the the generators electricity. Built in redundancy. This setup would perform as well as a traditional truck and operate more efficiently while doing it. The only downside is slightly more complexity (although all this technology has been being used for decades: internal combustion engine, generator, electric motor, battery...).

Maybe - I want to try the lower cost options first.

Am I reading this right that you are changing the oil in these once every decade (give or take)? I guess I feel better about my (bad) habits. Not being critical, just never heard someone go that long before.

Can those solenoids be flushed? I also wonder how bad would it be if you chose not to reset the the shift adapts... it would eventually adapt to the new hardware. Seems like I recall a battery disconnect resets them too (but that is a fleeting memory). I also wonder about salvaged TEHCM - if it is programmed to a comparable truck why wouldn't it work - are they VIN locked? In the end I think the thought about how big a deal programming these things are is being over-stated. It adds what to the rebuild cost? 300.00? But if one is really trying to avoid this...

This has been talked about in other topics, and I've mentioned that I might do this modification that I am contemplating. Without getting into the why's, how comes and what for's... I need to soften the ride of my 1 ton in the rear. I already know that sounds ridiculous, however, here is my plan. The truck currently has air bags in the rear, generally I don't need to use them. I do tow heavy trailers, hence why I am using the 1 ton truck in the first place. I plan to start taking leaves out of the spring pack to help the ride quality, I'd be willing to remove all of them except the main leaf that locates the axle. This lowers my load capacity that I would make up for by using the air bags to recover it. I have two concerns with this method, first, the single spring leaf without all its 'partners', would it be enough to keep the axle properly located? I think so, but if anyone has any thoughts I might be overlooking I'd like to here them. Second, I think the risk of axle wrap would be increased and I would have to add a set of traction bars. Also, not really a concern but I might have to add a small lift block to restore ride height, but that would aggravate concern 2. Another option is using the leaf spring pack out of a half ton truck, still using the air bags to make up load capacity. Thoughts? Opinions?

I think you already know your answer - torque converter. I'm suspect of your transmission guy though. A rebuild should not require a TCM reprogram. Tear it down, clean it, replace damaged hard parts, upgrade the torque converter and put it back in. I bet you could even replace the transmission and swap your current TCM to the new transmission with no programming needed.

false

Try changing the fluid on the transfer case - not as a fix, but to inspect fluid condition. Looking for too much metal in the fluid and while you're there inspect the speed sensor.

If it were the torque converter it would behave the same forwards or backwards. The lack of a speed signal that coincides with being stuck in first is interesting to me, additionally how shifting to park resolves it. My initial thought remains that the speed signal issue is causing the lack of shift from first.

Have you confirmed battery voltage when it is acting dead?

What wear and tear? Certainly nothing more than putting a trailer behind it. Poor driving is what makes a danger to others - has absolutely nothing to do with the vehicle.

His use of alternate upper control arms has likely been the key to preserving a reasonable ride quality. This might also preserve the life span of the upper ball joints. Lower ball joints will have a decreased life span, by how much is debatable. Same goes for cv-shafts.

I don't think you will need to cut the top mounting bolts. You may need to cut the end off the two bottom mounting bolts, they may interfere with the cv-shaft. Cutting extra length off the bottom bolts is not un-safe. You will probably have the upper control arms pushed against their droop limit stops. The suspension will not be able to travel any further down. This will make the ride worse. Ball joint life span will be shorter. Alignment after installation is required for too much toe.

Everything else turn on? Does engine crank? Does the key/remote work otherwise? Battery cables condition?

I think the P1682 is the code you should focus on, my brief read of the information make me think one of the ignition relays is sticking.