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Or put you in a lawn chair on the curb, with a free sign.

Still $4.50 85 oct.

B07 has a lot to learn. New kid on the block. You sound like a still wet behinnd the ears youngster by the way you respond, calling out someone and you know nothing about him. Look around this forum at Grumpy Bear input before you spout off.

Is it what you were talking about ? https://www.lislecorp.com/videos/lubrication--tire/19912-multi-application-oil-funnel-14-pc

Good thing my wife doesn't frequent my automotive forums, she might get the idea of strapping me to a handtruck and leaving me curbside for the pickers day before garbage pickup!

Okay boys and girls I put a bottle of this in Dizzy the oil burning guineapig after a tank between the coil and plug service of the #3 hole and near the end of the first R&P 5W30 attempt. As a note I did a two R&P oil changes back in October of 2025 with little effect. Granted they were 1K mile a shot oil changes so.... Then followed by fourteen 1K mile changes of Mobil 1 Euro 5W30 FS. Also ineffective. Anyone who has followed the adventures of Dizzy may remember that to put the oil on the full mark of the published nominal 5 quart change I withhold about a cup of oil. That over the last 50K miles the P0420 light has been a frequent flyer, sometimes three or four a day. And that even on 93 octane fuel she registers some KR even in moderate conditions on favorable days on slight inclines. Lastly when giving her a kick in the pants, something done about once a week, she looks like a diesel with the pump turned up. After one bottle and over the last 500 miles of a 3K mile OCI, of the first oil change I dropped the nastiest looking oil ever in her history. That's saying something as you will recall I have used AutoRx, HP EC30/40 and a few other harsh solvents in her before including the GM top soak twice. This was syrup. Black stinky, inky syrup but the filter wasn't all that bad. On the second fill I had to use the entire 5 quarts to reach the full mark. That was unexpected! The ignition KR is completely gone! Even at 99% engine load. MAP is much lower. Level road is now 9.8 instead of 12.5. Fuel economy is remarkably higher and for the first time since her earliest days she will spin to 6500, more than a thousand higher with out laying down dead. Yes, the coil and plug had something to do with that but remember the first 2500 miles after that repair on the first change it was same ole same ole Dizzy. Seems we have top rings that are somewhat functional again. P0420 code only comes on now if run in town for more than an hour of stop and go. On the open road it goes weeks without a incident. Perhaps it is cleaning the cat on the pass through? Fuel Trims have improved as well. Nothing not to like. To early to say about oil economy but the changes to date in the operational aspect is remarkable. I can't think of a worse case than Dizzy.... It's already paid for itself in a few tanks of fuel with the mpg improvement. @OnTheReel, I'd say if the Jeep didn't respond perhaps there wasn't an issue to respond to. I've run the Red Line SI-1, AMSOIL fuel cleaner, GUMOUT and Techron all in this SUV without any such results. Color me impressed. I'll be running out my supplies of the list mentioned and moving on to the Valvoline R&P Fuel System Cleaner.

Hey Chuck !!Thanks for the all the info I'm an old fart and I have everything I need for the oil change at home,minus flexibility .... and I’ve been doing my own oil changes for 40 years. I just didn’t want to end up without a crush washer or with the wrong one in my stash and have to walk to the auto parts store, lol. I climbed under the truck to check the location, and man, it’s going to be the easiest oil change and filter swap in the last 40 years—right up there with my 2014 Mitsubishi Outlander 2.4. No mess, nothing to drip on—just perfect. I’ve got one more free oil change to use, and then that’s it with the dealership!

I think this subforum was created for the new generation pickup trucks (2027-) with the 3.0 but I don't think it's a big deal either way. There are probably 2027 model-year specific changes for the SUV's too. I was just curious if you had issues with your 2025 3.0. I'm still under 10k miles on mine and fingers crossed I don't have thrust bearing issues. I'm guessing not, since you're willing to buy another one! It's a good engine minus one or two manufacturing whoopsies.

Wife has enough metal in her she hides from the scrapper.

Djannoyed was a one hit wonder. Posted and disappeared.

I have pictures of the before and after x-rays for my past three joint replacements. Your analogy is a good one as I have some modern, high tech parts hidden behind old, body panels!

I thought my stock Ranchos were fine most of the time. I installed 5100s because of all the conjecture online, and honestly I wish I had left the Ranchos on, only because I don't tow and haul very often. Towing or hauling, the 5100s are much more compliant. However, riding empty, the Ranchos were better.

Wiring needs to be resolved first. Smoke will just leak out the vent unless it can be closed (after fixing the circuit fault).

You have posted the same thing in multiple unrelated threads, it looked odd. Further, the GM Customer Service is nothing more than lip-service. I wouldn't bother trying to do anything to get their attention here. Your best bet to call another dealer parts department, tell them you need your part for your truck, let them order it for you based on your VIN.

As far as I know, it's a carry over. Not sure why this forum started this section. I just noticed it yesterday but it might have been here a while. Maybe they just because there are new gassers (which the Yukon isn't getting) they decided to give the 3.0l it's own section.

A couple of reasons. The Yukon I ordered will have the air suspension that will have an entry/exit setting (lowers) to help my wife. The other? I did have some warranty issues with the Sierra that ticked me off but it's moving 2 model years which is normal for me.

original motor, oil pump , timing chain gtx high mileage oil

and it's spam now.

That is GM's recommendation for flashing any of the computers in your vehicle, at least via their SPS programming service (vs OTA updates), that you should only flash an update if the update fixes a problem you are actually having or is safety-recall related.

There are no "new model" for the SUV's in 2027, correct?

Oh please, tell me who I am and what I know. (This is going to get interesting) Please, continue. Floor is yours.

R&P isn't an additive. It's an oil to help clean old engines so they have a chance of lasting longer. That's like when people say SuperTech is bad when I've used it for years and never had an issue or people who think paying $100 for Amsoil is the best thing to do. Mic Drop. Whatever TF that meant. You're that one AHole that has to be correct about sh*t they know nothing about.

Hormuz has them confused around here. Some stations down twenty cent and other up that amount.

If you have to move from your regular oil to an HM oil then your regular oil didn't get it done. If you have to clean out your motor with such products as R&P or AutoRx then your regular oil didn't get it done. Period, Full Stop, drop the Mic!!

2024 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 6.6L L8T gas, Allison 10-speed. Currently about 30,000 miles. Truck has had an easy life. I’ve towed maybe a couple hundred miles total since new. No heavy towing yet. On the highway it suddenly bucked hard, then immediately downshifted and stayed in 2nd. Felt like I slammed on the brakes with traffic behind me. I had to limp it at about 45 mph at 4500 rpm to the nearest exit. Transmission temp climbed quickly to 190°F before I shut it off, which is the hottest I’ve ever seen it (still not that hot). This was the first time the check engine light came on. After restarting it, I drove it about an hour to the dealer afterward taking only backroads. Dealer says they don’t know what’s wrong and that all the codes are historical. One of the techs looked at it while I was grabbing my stuff and said “this ain’t good.” They’re doing a test drive tonight and said they’ll consult their technical specialist. Has anyone else had this on a low-mileage L8T / 10L1000? Did GM actually fix it with the valve body TSB? Considering it was driving absolutely fine when this happened, I really don't trust the truck and its looking like the dealer isn't going to do anything about it.