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Mann+Hummel since 1941 per their web site

Looking for this part for my truck. They don't sell just that one piece and to get it you have to pay over $100 even used for the whole air tube. The piece the hose clamp snaps into that is held on by the screw and nut. If anyone has access to one please let me know.

https://ebay.io/m/cTI46i

Damn I literally just threw the one off my 2016 away a month ago when I remodeled my garage.

Some people can’t help it sometimes. We try not to judge too hard.

I recently bought my Silverado and realized that the bottom part of the Bumper was missing. Does anyone have part numbers the full thing or an aftermarket one that won't break the bank?

He mention Honda filters. I asked if I should be worried. And an explanation. I don’t think he needs any help. And now you made it about you, right?

Mobil on the hi-way went up a dime this afternoon, now $3.79, surrounding stations no change yet still $3.60s, Lowest price local still $3.87 and up

Stan, this thread is not about you and your vehicles. Other members are entitled to their own opinion. So please quit making everything about you.

You claimed Hondas oil filters are a problem. I ask for an explanation. Honda is known as one of the best for longevity and reliability. They also go extended with oil changes. I don’t anymore, go extended because I don’t drive many miles per vehicle because I have a few. So before you claim to be an expert, where’s the proof. I retired from a family business selling equipment and oil and filters. I was one of the first Amsoil dealers. So I know a little about oil and filters. So smarty pants, the proof that Honda sells inferior products, please.

Here is our new to us truck. It's my first GMC anything and will say it drives like a dream. It's a 2020 Denali with 53,000 miles on her. Really cool color. It's gonna take me some time to figure out all of the technology on board with this rig, but so far we're really impressed with it. I came from a 2018 Ram 1500 4x4 with the 6.4 bed and a crew cab with the Hemi. I put a ton of work into her over the 6 years we had her, i.e. Zone 6" lift, Fox 2.5 shocks, brush guard, cab lights, 36x13 tires on chrome 20" rims. Really a beautiful truck. Paid it off in June and a neighbor kid ran into her while it was parked in the street in July and totaled my truck and her car. Didn't even make it a month without a truck payment. Anyway looking forward to learning about this truck on this forum and am throwing around lifting this one too.

On my 2011 Sierra 1500 I had all kinds of lighting issues on the stereo head unit. Turned out there is about 10 or so soldered connections on the head unit that were in various stages of cracked. The solder guy fixed that up a couple years ago but now the rear speakers aren't working. Might be the same thing. Every so often the speakers work. Jim

Stupid questions don’t get serious answers.

So I was going to go for a drive in the 2011 GMC 1500 at 4am but when I started the truck, no low beams. High beams work. Separate bulbs. Now what. Google says that sometimes when one bulb goes the other goes in sympathy. Who knows when they went out. Did some testing. The connector that plugs into the bulb had 12 volts. The bulb showed open circuit implying that the bulb is gone. Replaced one bulb and it worked. Can't get the other bulb out of the headlamp assembly so have to remove the whole assembly. That will be in a couple days. Other things to do. Got it though Jim

After talking with a GM tech, that seemed to know what he was talking about, he told me to put a trickle charger on my battery overnight, that most always when the check for updates is greyed out, that means the battery needs extra charging, and according to him, its a battery in one of the modules, not necessarily the main starting battery. I did this, and then took a 10 mile trip, and when I shifted to park in my garage the message popped up to install the update, which installed successfully. I still don't have a couple of the latest updates from what I've seen, but maybe they will install now at some point.

Couple plausibilities. - Bent pushrod - Bad injector - Roller lifter failed and has been eating the cam lobe(s). - Broken valve spring All are options. Most common that I can recall would be the valve spring (hard to see the break on it as well), the cam/lifter and the injector.

I only have a few of the ACDelco blue remaining. One or two of the (old, old) ACDelco Professional boxes, and a couple of the newer style GM boxes with the simulcast in Chinese along with English. FWIW they've all been pretty good, regardless of where they are made, and in 20 years I've never had a problem with an e-core filter. Now I have a couple of the "A" series in my home inventory. They come in a plain white box with the GM hologram sticker and model information. Have not installed one yet, want to use up my oldest inventory first.

Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?

I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.

I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now. Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade. Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage. Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship. Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt. To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out. It arrived 3 days later, unscathed. I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4. Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself. NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails. The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly. The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside. Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install. The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK. I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape. BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed. I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant. This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp. New style clamp inserted in the track: And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward: Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine. The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps. After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring. Mistake #3 on my part. PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP! The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated. If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down. The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened. Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched. The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring. After using it for a few days: The spring assist is great. You literally can open it with one hand. My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover. Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line. They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels. I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design. All in all I'm pleased. Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.

Thanks not an answer

/facepalm

Same here, first I bought a few filters to get me going right after I bought my truck to do some short distance initial oil changes, then realized I could buy a case lot for less as they drop the price if filters or trans oil etc is bought by the un opened case lot as well as the discount for buying the vehicle there. So I have filters for a while but its good to know going forward, knowing to expect it to be a different part number and looking filter at the dealer and not be confused over it and think they are handing me the wrong part.

Saw Inglewood was in the National New last night for hail. Allot of hail. front end loader level hail.