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Atlas won. I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged. Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed. Made my day. Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.

Problems are blown way out of proportion due to the internet. The same experiences get repeated over and over again till it sounds like a real problem. There is NOT an vehicle out there that does not have some issues. Building 100's of 1,000's of vehicles with 1,000's of parts from various suppliers all over the whole, some quality control issues are going to make it through the process. The internet is full of misinformation often designed to change readers opinions. I have had 2 trouble free years with my 2024 Sierra, don't tow anything heavier than a 2026 Ranger NorthStar and mostly a around town. I personally know 3 others with same engine and no issues, 2 are LM2 version and 1 is the LZO, all three happen to be GMC's. All of these owners are older persons (40+) so that may have a lot to do with it. No modifications, no big tires, suspension hacks etc, just normal use. One who has a 2021 LM2 has over 100,000 miles and travels estimating projects for the electrical contracting company.

A young newlywed couple wanted to join a small church. The pastor told them, "We have special requirements for new parishioners. You must abstain from having sex for two weeks." The couple agreed. Two weeks later they returned. The pastor asked them, "Well, were you able to get through the two weeks without being intimate?" "Pastor," the young husband replied, "I'm afraid we were not able to go without sex for the two weeks." "What happened?" inquired the pastor. "My wife was reaching for a can of corn on the top shelf and dropped it. When she bent over to pick it up, I was overcome with desire and took advantage of her right there." "You understand, of course, that this means you will not be welcome in our church," the pastor responded firmly. "That's okay," said the young man. "We're not welcome at the grocery store anymore either..."

Your truck lowered, looks good. I'm happy with the stance on this. I may need the extra ground clearance given my location/situation.

Yep. For dealer mechanics mostly.

Was back in early June 7th as I recall

Yes, thats the PPE pan. Or if one wanted a little cheaper and the raw finish: https://www.jegs.com/i/PPE-Power/795/128051900/10002/-1

I haven't spent a lot of time looking at the performance aspects. Just enough to know the Turbomax put out more torque than the 5.3, and does it at a very low RPM. Not what I'd expect from a turbo. I'd expect the gains to be at higher or at least mid-range RPMs. So yeah maybe that does indicate a smaller turbo that spins up quickly and there's some room for a higher end, bigger turbo. I already have a huge divet in my savings account from buying this truck. I would like to see a full dyno graph of the 2.7 vs. the 5.3. It seems to go pretty good. Not big on the somewhat anemic sound of the 4cyl from a stop, but it is what it is...

Do you mean like this? Recalls 2024 Chevrolet HD - Troubleshooting, Warranty & Recalls - GM-Trucks.com

Two inches lower, same rake? https://www.belltech.com/categories/lowering/components/?Year/2026/Make/Chevrolet/Model/Silverado-1500/Submodel/WT/Drive/4WD/Engine/2.7L/EngineFuelType/GAS/BodyType/Standard-Cab-Pickup Mines a 2/4 drop. Gold Bowtie is nice. Love red trucks. Especially SCSB units. Nice thing about a knuckle drop is a no muss no fuss alignment without special A arms and no stress on the half shafts.

I upgraded to the 2026 HD 2500 LT Z71 Trail Boss 6.6 gas to pull my 2026 Rockwood 2908 SRL Ultra Lite that is 7808lbs dry and we load it up between 8500lbs to 9000lbs. The truck tows it with no issues in the Mountains where I live. I tow it with just the hitch without the torsion or sway controls bars. (I'll add those when I do longer runs on the highway, but most of our trips have been an hour or less from home). I am getting anywhere between 6.5mpg to 7.5mpg for each trip. I really love the different camera views the truck has. Over the 4th the GM store had a killer deal on the GM Trailer Camera kit and I ended up getting it for $211.00. I'll be installing it this weekend and what I like about is I'll be able to use the infotainment center to view the backup camera to back the trailer up as well as see what's behind the trailer when I use the turn signals. I'll wait on setting up the invisible or look threw trailer view.

Got a `25. Been looking on the history of 2 computers I use to find the TSB. Ain`t there. I did read it and it says oil pump prime. But, if a pump loses prime, it won`t pump. They can cavitate and make noise though. Can sound like marbles. Most won`t pull air on the suction side. That`s why you have to prime a new oil pump after a change or an engine rebuild. I was thinking out loud on my post. I was in the game for a long time. I take pride in troubleshooting. It`s a challenge. Course, I did state that I could be wrong. I want people to think. Iv`e seen tsb`s and recalls not be correct.

I have a 2024 Crew Cab 4x4, the door sticker says 3417 lbs payload and 16000 lbs conventional trailer, 1600 lbs tongue weight. We pull a 2026 ~38' Forest River Cherokee Grey Wolf 29TE with a sticker dry weight of 7047 lbs and a sticker GVWR of 9995 lbs. We just got the camper so have only done local pulls under 60 mph so tough to say what longer trips at full highway speeds will bring, but so far it's towed beautifully. We had full propane tanks, but the fresh, grey, and black water tanks were empty (emptied at camp ground before coming home, had water hookup so didn't need to fill fresh) and a decent bit of gear, both in the camper and in the bed, but I'm not sure what total weight was. Given empty tanks I'm confident we were below the 9995 lb trailer GVWR.

Those are famous for a water leak right into the right side fuse block and will cause everything you are complaining about. The fuse block is under the right side of the dash and the connectors will be corroded and green if its a water leak.

Is this the pan everyone is talking about PPE Power 128051910 . this can be gotten from JEGS.

i would say it is someone who bought a deisel and shouldn't have, they arenot meant to put around town or excessive idling. the brake thing is a gm problem, some do worse and some do bettter. i put 140k on my 2014 and was expecting the same on the 2020 but only got half of that mileage. a2020 with40k is not that many miles, my 2020 has 120k

What problems?

OK just did the job, here is what I learned for anyone future reading this. 1. Very easy overall, step 1 pop hood, clean around brake fluid res and open cap, place on top. Also no service mode needed on these (2500+3500 only) 2. I used 2x Bremen 12 inch bar clamps from HF, compressed the calipers fast and easy 3. I deleted the sensors, so I disabled them in the settings first, then just took the old sensors and zipped tied them out of the way(3 zip ties each), super easy and didn't cost anything. 4. my brake fluid res was overfilled when i done, I removed some before starting or opening a door on the truck to just below full. 5. That's it, took about an hour total, brakes are way better now, no squeal and they bite much better!

I am curious what made you decide to eliminate the brake wear sensors, some pad kits come with the sensors and as long as the harness plug etc isn't damaged I assume it shouldn't be too much of a pain to swap the indicators over to the new ones on the left side of the vehicle. What brand and model/spec of brake pad did you go with and did you reuse your rotors or swap them out as well. Also did you have very uneven pad wear when comparing the inner to outer pads on a caliper which typically indicates the slide pins are not as free as they should be or the caliper pistons themselves are not retracting that slight amount after the brake pedal pressure is released. Did you take a peek at your park brake shoes, which would happen by default if the rear rotors were replaced. Odds are unless you travel up to the rust bucket states during the winter or drive on the Florida beaches and salt up the brakes, I imagine the park brakes are probably in decent shape.

Because I added the trans dipstick to a new truck. So I’m assuming the fluid is already at the right level from the factory. And because no one has ever opened up my new truck that I got with 5mi on it, I would also assume that the fact it is showing full on my added transmission dipstick, that all is right. it would be different if I added this dipstick to an old truck that I didn’t buy brand new. Then I get what you’re saying.

That’s wild? So you think most people crawl under their new truck to check the transmission fluid level from the factory? To me that’s “wild” And upon the first fluid drop I’ll be able to see how much fluid drains out and cross reference that with the known amount that comes out and put that exact amount back in via the trans stick. Pretty easy stuff.

So you have not verified via the stock level check plug if the dipstick has the correct measure point to it...

Well, the transmission pan has not changed for the 6L90 in a lot of years. All they did was remove the dipstick for the post 2019 models trucks and replaced it with a plug. So, adding a factory dipstick in place of the plug has no bearing on a means to check accurate fluid level. PPE using the same plug set up as OEM makes perfect sense. If someone replaces the factory pan with their product, they would still need to ensure the method to check fluid level is adhered to (especially for those who don't have the dipstick). In my case, I installed the dipstick prior to installing the PPE pan. So, I was able to record the level on the dipstick prior to installing the PPE pan. After installing PPE pan, I ensured the requisite amount of fluid was filled to match the recorded dipstick level.

No. What's wild is you didn't bother to verify if the level on the stick matched the level when using the check plug. How do you know if the dipstick is actually indicating the correct level???

Wild.