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New sensors installed today. They auto learned without issue. They were working within a 1/4 mile of leaving the installer. I think I'm done for now. Finally have everything done to get it to a good enough base level that hopefully I'll be happy with. Time will tell. I appreciate everyone's thoughts and opinions along the way.

I may post it once I'm ready to send it down the road. It's very....recognizable. Documented, even. This isn't just any 1995 Blazer The feature it has is the only one I've ever seen in the wild. Not necessarily value-increasing, but it is rare. You are correct about the body; it's a Pacific Northwest (Wet side) vehicle since new so it has zero rust. It's straight. It was parked outside for a long time so it does show its age a little bit but otherwise presents very well and is very clean. If I didn't have guys on this forum wanting to hunt me down and kill me for my politics and sass, I'd post it up right now. And there it is, adding some faux-intrigue about this weird little truck for those following the story.. I just returned from tearing the lower intake off a junkyard '95 2-door 4.3 CPI. $50 for the intake and $45 for the EGR still attached to it. I said to the guy, MY DUDE, it came attached, and probably doesn't work, and you're charging me 2/3 the cost of a brand new EGR, I know, I just bought one. Are you serious? He said if I didn't want the EGR I could go take it off. Alrighty then. So I took it off. My total with tax was $56 out the door.

You got any pictures of this beast? I’m assuming the body is in better condition than anything remaining here in Wisconsin or the list wouldn’t be quite so long!

Over the last week I installed GM coils, Taylor wires and Red Line SI-1 in the fuel which cleared up a slightly rough idle. Coils made the biggest difference even just A/B testing one bank at a time. I know everyone says the OEM ones last forever but at 212k on these units they were tired. Fade to failure, like shock absorbers in my experience. Also slightly richened the target idle AFR in the tune for good measure. I have zero tolerance for anything less than buttery smooth, and since emissions are not a concern I can get there any way I please.

Atlas won. I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged. Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed. Made my day. Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.

Is that starter old enough to have a mechanical external engagement Bendix Solenoid? You really like this vehicle. I would too. Labors such as these are not done for profit. Affection is much closer. Love it to death young one and enjoy the fact you still can. I'm jealous. Not of the vehicle, although I do like it, but of the focus, energy and commitment. You da man!

Great photo. The shade pops the color

^^ Yep, that's all it was. The fuel line had rubbed through on one of the spider legs and was severely leaking. Even the lines/nut and bolt kit are harder to find and I think I paid $84 (Standard HK-11) for the kit. Ripoff. But when you're the only brand still making it... There are a few things left before the truck is Atlas® Certified (and I've thoroughly spent too much on it considering what it's worth). My RockAuto shopping cart total is about $250 and growing: -Radiator (there's a pinhole leak, driver's upper corner where a cooling line bolts in, the threaded insert weld cracked) -Water pump (mine squeaks, I assume it's shot) -Lower radiator hose (it's original, if replacing cooling parts, this shall be touched too) -Starter (It's not always engaging the flywheel, get the whirrrrrr sometimes when I turn the key but no crank) -Door hinge replacement pins (already purchased, need to install) Suspect/borderline parts NOT included in shopping cart (only if I want to opt for bonus points): -Motor mounts. Someone twerked the radiator fan shroud, so I can't tell if the motor mounts are bad/squished or if it's truly just a deformed fan shroud. I reassembled the shroud correctly but the plastic is still re-forming/relaxing where it was all mangled and bent, and the fan still chafes it occasionally, but it's 99% better. -Left rear door speaker is blown -Rear wiper motor is shot (horrible grinding noise) -One of the wheels is missing the bowtie center cap. This drives me insane to look at, I'll just need to find a replacement. I've already replaced: -Driver's door mirror -Idler pulley -Tensioner pulley -EGR -MAP sensor -Hood prop retainer -Intake plenum fuel lines -Intake gaskets -Thermostat (and flushed cooling system) -Radiator cap -Radiator overflow reservoir cap And it needs tires, and could use a set of front brake pads, and the brake system flushed. And it could use a transmission service, and if I'm doing that, why not differentials, and transfer case, and oh hell, why not flush the power steering. Is there anything I won't touch? Or...do I just get it to a point where I can send it down the road?

Was checking out a 39 Buick at a charity auction and found the statement on the cover of the owners manual interesting. What it can do for you, and what YOU can do for IT? Framing your ownership as a two way relationship! Seems this type of thinking is all but gone with the non-enthusiasts, and something like that would never be printed on the cover of a manual. It would likely offend people. Hey, I just spent two years salary on an SUV and it has the nerve to request anything back from me????

Assembly Turorial https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/here-s-how-cruise-control-actually-impacts-fuel-consumption/ar-AA1MJ3a4 Take the time to read the link and the document linked note how the writer parses the wording to reach unspoken information that is just as important as the information presented on face. Same procedure works for marketing presentations. Maybe you might wish to reconsider; 'Critical Thinking'.

I have a 2025 GMC 1500 Sierra Denali Ultimate with the 3.0l. I had an issue with mine at 5,000 miles. Engine siezed. It was replaced and trouble-free with the replacement. I'm going to order a 2027 GMC Yukon once the order banks open and it'll be another 3.0l.

Don't know if all will be able to see this. Valvoline Cuts Dexos Claim from Synthetic Oils https://www.lubesngreases.com/lubereport-americas/11_27/valvoline-cuts-dexos-claim-from-synthetic-oils/

I am using a ScanGauge II. A ScanGauge III is nicer but it's bigger and I couldn't figure out where I wanted to mount it. I mounted the smaller ScanGauge II where it covers the bottom part of the tach (who cares about 500 rpm most of the time?) and it covers up some idiot lights. I use it to display (actual) engine temp, engine oil temp, transmission gear (1-10), and transmission fluid temp. I checked engine oil pressure and voltage but the dash gauges were close enough (unlike engine temp), so I display the ones I listed above. L8T gasser.

My 2008 started exhibiting similar symptoms, wasn't 'cold' enough. I went through a pretty extensive diagnostic process for a DIY'er with limited OBD access. System evacuation and recharge included. Noticed one day the passenger side was cold (I'm never over there so took awhile to notice). Pulled the drivers side blend door actuator out, disassembled it and cleaned it out. Put it back in and did some kind of reset and it fixed the problem. Long story short, it wasn't the A/C system at fault, the blend door wasn't moving to full cold position.