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Engine failure requires radiator replacement per GM if it contains an engine oil cooler. They do NOT want them flushed. Radiator replacement is also required for the 6.2 recall if the engine fails. Here is the TSB the dealer is referring to - 22-NA-074 1..2 Its a slightly older version, but the current version of it covers all model years 2000-2026. So if enough failure debris was present, it gets an oil cooler. If that is part of the radiator, it gets a radiator. Also, same for oil cooler lines. Those get replaced. Now something like a 2.7 Turbo which uses an oil to water heat exchanger for the oil cooler, the radiator would be left alone but the oil cooler would be replaced, as well as any lines.

Getting greedy... The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges. It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway. The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge". I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?) The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye. I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.

New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same. I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out. At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated. And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure. Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting. All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared. An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources. So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.

At peak temperature. They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler. I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission. Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it. It's not the bean counters, it was the government. They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements. To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.

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My truck is probably one of the most babied and best maintained out of all the individual trucks discussed here. Premium fluids used, very short fluid change intervals, indoor storage, waxed regularly, low amount of towing with easy loads, minimal off-road use, and most driving done empty or with an 1800 lbs (40% of payload rating) popup Four Wheel Camper in the bed. It’s driven to full warmup every week during non-use periods. All maintenance was performed by a roughly 60 year old mechanical engineer specializing in aircraft propulsion systems that has all the correct tools. You will not find a single maintenance record on Carfax for my truck other than the first oil change done at 300 miles due to my discovery of a dented filter from the factory or shipping. I have full personal records with receipts for fluids and filters. Anyone would be lucky to buy my truck used. Someone refusing to look at my truck due to lack of Carfax records would be missing out on a great truck. I’m not selling, though. My son will get it whenever I am done with it.

I like the idea. I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.

Did the first oil change at 850 miles on my 6 week old 2026 2500HD TB 4x4 V8. Used Mobil 1 5W30 which I have been using for years in my trucks and late model GM cars, and a PF63 AC Delco filter. Took exactly 8 QT and right to the top of the dipstick. Debating if I will let the dealer do the next one. It's $60 worth of supplies and 30min of my time to DIY and probably would end up wasting a lot of time if I brought it to the dealer, not to mention the risk of them doing something stupid. I mean it happens. first longer road trip this weekend so I wanted to get this done first. Saw very minor metal flake in bottom of drain pan - nothing significant, as you would expect.

Had brakes put on a 1999 Sierra once at local small town GMC shop. The new pads were squealing a lot so I went back and complained. Found out parts guy (slip of the tongue) they installed local parts store junk. Never told me that and when I checked my bill it listed GM part numbers and what I assumed was GM prices. I think they realized it was a problem because they had order the GM rotors and pads and never changed me a dime. New brakes did no squeal. btw-That dealer is out of business today.

Carfax is at best a joke and more appropriately called a scam. I've seen clean car fax cars that were wrecked and commanded a premium price because of the clean car fax, do a little digging and you find that it was likely repaired (botched) in someone's backyard and worth 1/2 what was paid. Flip side, we had a new Explorer Sport Trac way back in 2003, someone hit and messed up the rear door and running board. Not a bad crash - a fender bender in all rights except it was't the fender it was the door. I made sure that it was professionally repaired, with genuine Ford parts, no Bondo, perfect paint match etc. No one would have ever know it was hit - except for car fax. Instant 1500.00 to 2000.00 hit at time to get rid of it. A 'regular' appearance at the dealer oil change line means what exactly? What oil was put in it, how was it driven, environment, other maintenance, etc... Meanwhile, Grumpys truck, the worlds best maintained, (probably) comes with extensive documentation that never makes it past the next buyer. Absolutely nothing on Carfax... suddenly it's the worst maintained. Carfax is a cheap way for Big Data to sell a product to make lazy consumers feel better about their used car purchase. 'Buy Back Guarantee', good luck. Carfax = the automotive version of Experian, Transunion and Equifax - junk big data, that no one is responsible for and only useful for extracting money out of the weakest player in the game, the lone consumer.

The 6L90 in the 2020+ trucks has several improvements over the 6L90 in other trucks, so the comments made about issues with previous versions may not apply. I have been totally happy with the 6L90 in my 2021 3500 HD. The L8T has plenty of torque over a wide speed range and does not need to be held in a narrow rpm range unless you are towing near the maximum weight. Even then, six gears works just fine. Personally I don’t like what i consider the excessive shifting of most ten speeds, but i have not towed with one of these trucks with a ten speed. If you are buying used I would prioritize condition, miles, maintenance records, absence of stupid unreversible modifications, and towing history as more important than ten speed versus six speed. Make sure you try the seats out before choosing a trim level. I can drive my SLT with the leather bucket seat (premium pkg) option for 8 hours and get out feeling fine. I was uncomfortable in the SLE cloth seats with fold down center seat by the end of a 20 minute test drive. My wife loves the SLT leather bucket seats, too.

I'll bet your truck lost the bearings on a roller on 1 of the lifters, and now is wiping out a cam lobe.