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My buddy had 15k of insurance money put into his BMW z4 m. After he traded it in, he ran the vin after he saw it online for sale at a dealers lot. Nothing about the 15k damage showed up in the car fax. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Lemon law the truck.... doesn't cost anything, gm will pay the attorney fees. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I would be upset.... i ended up using duplicolor undercoating on my wax and it looks better and doesn't make an ugly mess on my hands. Get a body shop to look at and see what they say? If it is just cosmetic I would use por 15 or put the spray i used and go over it. Mine was from the tire shop and shop putting on the amp steps scraping off the wax so i bought the undercoating... I understand you shouldn't have to do this, but i would put a value on my time... if the body shop says the inside was not done right or dipped try the selling dealer again. I do see a lot if super superduties with crappy looking frames for some reason.... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

That is what I did after the liner... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I am jealous.... I have an 8 year dmax.... ppe covers all around tranny and oil pan... pto covers but I want the new truck... been saving for 5 years when I paid this off.. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Maybe dual alts would be better? I added a dc power 270 as a second one on my 2012 dmax. 270amps max, 200 at idle plus the stock 125 amp max alt. I would imagine 225-250 at idle with both.... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Here is the stock and added ground and current pics... sorry for how dirty the engine is... 8 years old this may... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

A cheaper place for an replacement alt.. I used my 12 as an example and I do live in phoenix.... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

A guy on dmax forum made the replacement charge wire to look factory and the plug in wire for the alt to turn on.... I bought the passenger side battery fuse block and modified it to fit the drivers side and added the large fuses... ideally you could have just replaced the stock alt but since my new alt puts out 125amps idle and 270max, not sure I would trust the stock charge wire, I would replace that. Also not pictured I added the stock ground off of a chassis frame as it was twice the size from the firewall to the engine as my stock one. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Here are some pics... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

My bad what I meant was i put a 300 amp fuse to protect the charge wire in case more than 300 amps went through it so it didn't start a fire. The charge wire was I think 0 gage. The bcm controls the charging..... it all looks factory. The point is the op could get one alt like I added and it puts out 125amps at idle.... hairpin stator. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I added a second alternator to my 12 dmax... a dc power 270 amp xp. Tied into the factory alt wiring with factory connectors and added the bracket and idlers.... new belt and new charge wire to the second battery. Shouldnt be the hard, I did add fuses on the battery as well in case of over amps to prevent a fire... works great. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Just asking if lost 30 pounds and never let anyone else step on it would that help? Or just remove the hitch when not in use and pull the fuse when in use? Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I love powercore filters... never have to clean them and I install the prewrap mesh.... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

So what you are saying is, it would be the f150/1500 version? Seeing how 6l90s were in 1500pickups.... I was hoping it would be the 10l1000... oh well I am waiting to see the 21 interior changes before I replace my 12 Denali hd with a dmax and less than 25k on the odo... I think I want the 3500 srw for the 12inch rear end and full torque in all gears. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk