royalkangaroo

Whenever I get out of my truck with the engine still running, I’m always miffed with how noisy my truck idles. My last two 5.3s were very quiet in comparison. Is this just normal operation for the 2.7 Turbomax? Mines a ‘24 with 11k miles.

I have a 2024 Sierra 1500 Elevation 2.7 that I purchased new back in October. It's had a noticeable vibration, specifically at speeds >40mph since day 1. It's been to the dealership 6 times. They've balanced tires, changed tires, measured road force of rim and tire assembly. Two separate technicians have hooked a picoscope up to measure vibrations and claimed they were within spec. One technician rode with me and acknowledged the vibration, but claimed since it's in spec there's nothing they can do. GM rep has worked with me through this, but claims there's nothing they can do if the dealership cannot find a problem. I don't understand how this vibration can be "within spec" when it's visibly shaking. (See video link below) My visors, when down, shake. My body in the driver seat shakes. I had a bag in the back seat yesterday and I could hear the contents shaking the entire ride. I have no idea what to do at this point, other than perhaps try another dealership service department for a second opinion. (Or 7th at this point). Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

I can’t see the video, but I assume you’re referring to the infotainment area where all the buttons are? If so, I have a ‘24 Elevation with the same problem. My entire dash is squeaky/popping especially in the sun. Trying to find a solution.

My 2015 GMC Sierra quit blowing cold air today after 97,000 miles. Compressor cycles fine, but there’s now a low hissing sound coming from the air ducts. I would assume the condenser finally went. For those of you who have had yours replaced: What’s the your cost been to replace? (I won’t be tackling this one myself) I know this has been a common/hot button issue for these trucks, is it worth trying to get GM involved to cover part of the cost? I’m sure it’s a stretch now that mines 7+ years old.

I'm holding the steering wheel 5 degrees to the right to keep the truck traveling straight - more-so if the road crowns off to the left (i.e. left lane of the highway). If I take my hands off the wheel the wheel naturally returns mostly center but the truck veers to the left. I agree with an alignment issue, I'm just unsure of how it would've changed. The intermediate shaft is squared on both ends (a female and a male). I don't see how this would've caused any change as there's really only one way to install it. I suppose I'll have my shop take a look, just figured I'd see if anyone on here had some wise insight.

Over the past year, I’ve noticed my steering wheel is pointed 5 degrees or so to the right when traveling straight down the road. It was spot on prior, as I had my shop ensure it was true when installing a new set of tires and aligning (2+ years ago now). The only thing that’s been done in the meantime is I’ve installed a new intermediate steering shaft trying to solve a clicking noise. However, I secured the steering wheel when doing so, and there’s really only one orientation for the shaft to install; can’t see how this would’ve caused the offset. Any steering gurus out there? Do I have a bad tie rod end? 2015 Sierra with 95k miles. Also noticing some prominent random vibration on the highway. I had my tires re-mounted and balanced last fall, thinking that may be a cause. Also noticing a low end whine coming from the steering column at low speed when cranking the steering wheel, such as backing into a parking spot.

Funny you say that - I received $10,000 off the sticker price when I purchased mine new in 2016. Now they advertise $500 cash back on a $60,000+ truck like it's some steal of a deal.

Just curious for those who have owned their trucks for a while, what are your thoughts on upgrading? I've had my 2015 Sierra going on 7 years now, and while vehicle prices aren't very attractive, it does cross my mind. I'm at 93,000 miles, meticulously maintained, and have had very little problems. My only concern is that 3-4 years from now, there will be much less value or demand for a 10 year old truck with say 130k miles as opposed to current condition. Other than that, I have no real itch to get into something newer.

I finally found the fix - the noise was coming from the steering position sensor. The plastic housing is somewhat loose, so I put a little duct tape around it. I also rolled up some tape and wedged it between the housing and sensor. The noise is completely gone. Hopefully this helps someone with a similar issue. It’s been driving me crazy for a while now.

That does not sound like it'd be cheap...

Strange indeed, I can't seem to find any similar reports of it online. It's a 2015, probably started around 6 months ago.

I've been trying to troubleshoot this issue as little noises are a huge annoyance to me. My steering wheel clicks when slightly moving the steering wheel back and forth. As you're driving down the road and making tiny adjustments to the steering wheel, its just click, click, click non-stop. I thought it was coming from the intermediate steering shaft knuckle, so I replaced it. Then I thought maybe it was the actual steering shaft boot, replaced that, but no fix. Has anyone had this same issue and/or found a solution?

Bilstein 4600 for stock replacement. 5100s are good if you want to change the height.

I replaced my stock tires with Duratracs and got about 40k miles out of them. (P265/70/17) -Best looking AT tire, in my opinion. -Quiet for the first 15k miles, after that they got progressively noisier. -Started to wear unevenly. Rotated every oil change (~5k miles), checked alignment, and they still chopped. This probably attributed to the noise. -Performance was okay. Better than stock, but I wasn’t blown away by how they were in the snow. I have a set of BFG KO2s now with about 6k miles on them. Haven’t put them to the test in the snow yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Order both, see which one you prefer, send one back.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, but the reception is incredible, haha! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t speak to completely removing the antenna, however I replaced mine with a 13” https://www.amazon.com/AntennaMastsRus-Compatible-2006-2019-Guaranteed-Engineered/dp/B00SLNED0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=antennamastsrus&qid=1609854383&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1 I also listen to satellite radio 99% of the time, but the FM reception sounds about the same as the long stock one. A friend of mine has a 4” on his truck and it doesn’t look right to me, so I went with one a little longer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great! $450 to install isn’t bad at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been hemming and hawing over installing a set of Katzkins in my SLE. I’ve got 70k miles on my truck and plan on keeping it for another few years. Seems like a fairly affordable DIY project that comes out nice, especially with a steamer. Anyone install a set themselves? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just an interesting anecdote of the wonders of Fluid Film. I’ve owned my truck since day one with 7 miles on the odometer. While I’ve never fully undercoated my truck with FF due to the mixed reports of its interaction with the factory wax coating on the frame, I’ve simply used rattle cans and coated pretty much everything else underneath, yearly. Including dropping the spare and getting the hoist mechanism as well as the spare itself. Fast forward to a couple months ago, I unfortunately had a flat on the highway. Tossed on the spare and when I got home, gave her a nice scrub down with some APC. After nearly 5 years of weathering and salty Vermont winters, my poor steel spare looks brand new! I believe this stuff is truly magic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would consider “no rust” to be “no visible rust.” Best place to look is any metal seams. Under the door seals, rear tail light seams, or wheel wells behind the liners. All good spots for rust, and you never might see it until it comes through the panel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you’re all correct, it probably isn’t an issue for half ton pickups. I did find another blurb about mudflaps required for any lifted vehicle. Regardless, it was likely a lie by the dealership just so they could throw on their logo mudflaps. It’s more or the fact that a dealership would carelessly screw into the metal of a brand new truck, especially here in salt country. The more interactions I have with dealerships, the more I realize their incompetence, however. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

State law, at least for rear mudflaps. “No person may operate or cause to be operated any bus, truck, trailer, or semi-trailer upon any highway in this state unless the bus, truck, trailer, or semi-trailer is equipped with suitable metal protectors or substantial flexible flaps behind the rearmost wheels to prevent, as far as practicable, the wheels from throwing dirt, water, or any other materials on the windshields of vehicles following or approaching. The flaps shall be of a type and size as specified by the motor vehicle department.” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, so this is more of a gripe post than anything. However, anyone with body work experience, feel free to chime in. I removed my wheel well liners this weekend to change my spark plugs. And noticed some rust starting on the inner fender lip. The gripe: When I purchased the truck, I told the dealership I wanted a set of molded mudflaps included in the price of the truck. They would not budge, so I decided I’d install some Weathertech no-drill ones myself. I was then told I couldn’t legally drive the truck off the lot without mudflaps, and they would put their own cheap dealership branded ones on. Those of which they crudely attached with self tapping screws. Fast forward to today, these screw holes seem to be the culprit of where the rust started. Partial blame on me for not inspecting sooner, I suppose. The fix: I cleaned up the spot for now and put a healthy coverage of fluid film on until spring; along with the entire wheel wells. Come spring I plan on: 1) grind the area to bare metal 2) metal prep solution? 3) epoxy primer (or rust encapsulator? I should be able to remove all the rust) 4) skim coat of filler 5) sand, seal, paint It’s under the plastic wheel hoop trim, so it doesn’t have to be flawless. I just want to make sure it’s protected for the years to come. I’ve had it from day one, now with 70,000 miles and in excellent shape. The other three corners are much better, this one by far the worst. Let me know what you folks think! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry to hijack this thread. I just replaced mine today and put a new set of wires on as well, just for the heck of it. These are mine at 70k miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk