I should expound on what I stated. Check with Speedco, TA/Petro, and commercial heavy truck dealerships and ask them the volume of conventional HDEO they sell and use for oil changes compare to synthetic. Conventional still reigns supreme by quite a healthy margin. Only a few O/O are using full synthetic and out of the thousands of trucking fleets, maybe a handful are and those are small fleets in the big scheme of things. Sure, Shell is selling the product, but not nearly at volumes compared to conventional Rotella. Synthetic blend usage is on the rise, but full synthetic usage is barely a mark on the graph of overall HDEO oil usage. Given the quality of synthetic blends nowadays and the length of oil change intervals recommended by the OEM's there really is no motivation for commercial users to make the move to full synthetic.
Yeah, and I am probably on the camp of those who actually use 4x4 frequently. Hardly a week goes by when I am using the pickup that it is not in 4x4 at some point.... year round. 4 years and if there was going to be an issue, it should have showed up by now.
Got some rear end damage to my 2500 a couple of weeks ago while clearing snow at my place. My screw up. But the rear bumper, fender, and the tail gate got damaged. Not sure yet If I finally have a great opportunity to yank the box off and put on an aluminum flatbed like I have been considering. Will look at cost to repair vs cost for flatbed. If I opt for repair, am going to look at yanking that goofy tailgate assist junk off. I want to be able to easily remove the tailgate periodically without it becoming a Popular Mechanics project. Some things should never change. This old Cavalry Sergeant in his mid 60's can still lift and lower a standard tailgate with ease. I don't need or want some goofy assist junk. Getting tired of paying for stuff the OEM shoves down my throat.
Actually, diesel has a triple whammy going on when cold. Petro diesel has a cloud point that it will start bonding molecules at roughly +15F. The cold filter plug point soon follows. Biodiesel, which seems to be in most diesel nowadays in various percentages, has a cloud point of around +32F. And then there is also the issue of any moisture in the tank. Diesel fuel in the tank gets warm when the engine is run because fuel is returned to the tank from the rail on the engine. when that diesel cools down in the tank when it is shut off, condensation can be a problem. That is why whenever the temp is going to be below 32F, treat the fuel and keep the tank close to as full as possible. if it is going to be in polar vortex territory like we experienced, then mixing #1 diesel at about 20-30% is a good idea along with adding a good anti-gel, anti-icing product. My semi truck was out and about all thru the polar vortex stuff last week. In Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, etc. Not a single issue with fuel. Did notice the fuel filter needing replaced by Friday, but I did it while fueling the truck before it became an issue. I go thru about 21,000 gallons of diesel a year. I have learned a few things about cold weather and diesel in the last 50 years of driving and operating equipment. All that macho glamour of diesel falls away pretty quick when one is sidelined along the road at -20F and having to change a filter all by themselves in that cold. Even worse if it happens at night. And that is assuming one is carrying a spare fuel filter and tools to do the job. A good diesel owner does stuff like that. I use diesel vehicles when there is no other way to get the job done and avoid diesel vehicles whenever I can get by without them.
My 2015 has been noticeable when in 4hi since day one. I guess noisy is relative. I really just sort of blank it out. I have to actually be listening for it before I actually notice it.
Just did a little calculation regarding my 2500 6.0 and the 30 mpg claim given earlier with a 1500 6.2. My 2500 has been on E85 for about 2 years exclusively. Currently $1.12 a gallon. On road trips, my 2500 on E85 has gotten roughly 13.8 mpg average. At $1.12 a gallon for E85, that comes to about 8 cents a mile fuel cost. Sounds horrible.... but wait. Premium fuel is going for $2.51 a gallon in my area. For a 1500 6.2 to get the same 8 cent per mile fuel cost, it would have to get 30 mpg average. So, I have far more capability with my 2500 6.0, and it costs me the same in fuel cost per mile compared to a 1500 6.2. Does anyone but me see the problem of buying a less capable pickup truck, for more money, and it end up costing just as much to operate? Can one get a 1500 6.2 with snow plow prep package, tow package with integrated controller, 5th wheel / gooseneck prep package, Line-X bed liner, for $38K like it cost me for my 2500? Maybe I am missing something.
Well, I do cheat a little now. My pickup and my wife's Cadillac sit in a heated garage when not being used. So I get to mitigate some of what I did in Alaska. But all my commercial stuff, you bet..... oil pan warmers, block heaters, on board Xantrex battery charger, etc. Even a fuel fired cab/sleeper heater operating when the heavy truck is shut off. Engine stays warm. Oil Stays warm. The interior stays warm. Diesel fuel stays warm. Batteries multi phase fully charged and monitored. All plugged in when the truck is at home. Webasto makes diesel/gasoline fired coolant heaters also. You can have one installed on a pickup and set on a timer. In one hour it will have the coolant at 160F. Uses very little battery power. Even if you left it running all the time (no need to) it would only use about 1 gallon in a 10 hr period. So plugging in is not the only option going. For the diesel crowd, the heated coolant could be routed to also keep DEF and fuel warm right along with the engine. It doesn't get any better than that. https://www.webasto-comfort.com/en-us/heating-solutions/light-medium-duty-work-vehicles/coolant-heaters/ There are tons of options to get the job done. No need to only use the old plug in heater game.
You could be right on the AFM thing. I am fortunate that I will not be looking for a new pickup truck for many years to come, since I already have pretty much what I want. The AFM thing would be a deal breaker probably, and most assuredly if the new 6.6 does not have flex fuel capability also. Something else that was not asked or brought out by the engineer. Too many questions still remain. I really like paying only $1.12 right now for E85. My 2015 2500 6.0 has been on an E85 diet for two years. Even with the lower fuel economy, I still have a lower cost per mile fuel cost than with regular, premium, or diesel.
From the GM Authority website....... Notably, the L96 is E85/FlexFuel capable and features Variable Valve Timing (VVT) and Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI, otherwise known as port fuel injection). That is to say that it does not have the latest internal combustion engine technologies such as direct injection, Cylinder Deactivation (in either AFM or DFM guise), or a low-friction valvetrain. By comparison, the new 6.6L unit is expected to adopt these technologies. Read more: http://gmauthority.com/blog/2018/10/next-gen-gm-hd-trucks-to-introduce-new-6-6l-v-8-gasoline-engine/#ixzz5eqa3q6Jo There were a lot of things that weren't asked and not addressed but the engineer in the video from TFL.. Will it also be flex fuel like the current L96 is one of them. Cylinder deactivation was not asked by the interviewer not addressed by the engineer. Silence does not imply non existence. GM has always played a little coy when it comes to AFM. They really don't go around bragging about it and most of us understand why.
What we don't know from that is if the new engine will also have AFM like the 1/2 series. GM Authority site claims it will. One has to wonder, if it does have AFM, what the intent of putting that goofy cylinder deactivation junk on a working truck that has 2/3 of it's sales to commercial users who are not interested in that sort of crap clogging up their engine.
Just a nice little update today. Wish the TFL truck folks had been around to video it. I live rural and there is about 2 miles of hilly gravel/dirt road from my home to the nearest hard top road. After the major freeze this last week and the snow, we got high 40's temps over the weekend. The road turned to a soft, soupy, muddy mess. I had my semi tractor at home to do some work on it, but had to head out Sunday eve to get a load of Kawasaki Mules to Chicago. Trailer was in town, but had to get the tractor back to town to pick it up. Well, the semi tractor did not go far before bogging down into the mud. That 11,000 lb steer axle, the tires just dug deep trenches into the mud and everything came to a stop. Even with the dual drive axle full lockers engaged. So got the wife to fire up the 2500 and bring it out and hook up to me and pull me to the highway. Hooked up a HD tow strap to a clevis in the the receiver hitch and to the tow bar on the semi and went to work. The truck and especially the wife did an excellent job of pulling my 21,000 lb semi tractor thru all that goo over 7 hills to the road. Not real long hills, but pretty steep grade on each of them. Was a bit of a strain on the wife, as she really hadn't done anything like that before, but she was a real champ and did the job as good or better than I had ever seen anyone do a similar job. So it is going to be a tough sell to convince me that the 6.0 2500 with 4.10 rear can't pack the gear. Diesel? Nah.
I have a recent anecdote as to why I stick with BFG. I live rural and there is about 2 miles of hilly gravel/dirt road from my house to the nearest highway. We had a real warmup over the weekend and the roads turned to a muddy soup. I also have a semi truck, and I needed to get going last night to get a load of Kawasaki Mules to Chicago this morning. Trailer was in town, but tractor at home because I had to do a bunch of maintenance work on it. Took off and the truck just buried itself in the mud on the road. Even without a trailer, there is about 11,000 lb on the steer axle and those 11" wide steer tires just cut trenches in the road and bogged me down. Even when I had both drive axle lockers engaged. Well, what to do. I normally would call a neighbor who would bring his John Deere ag tractor out and pull me over the hills in such conditions. Called the wife and had her bring the 2500 out. Hooked up a tow strap to a clevis hitch on the receiver draw bar of the pickup and to the tow hook on the semi. Wife pulled me and 21,000 lb of semi tractor over about 7 steep grade hills and got me to the main highway. Man, the wife did a great job of keeping the right tension on the strap and staying into it on the hills. She was a true towing champion! That 6.0L 2500 with KO2's on it did a fantastic job. When something just plain works, stick with it. That includes the wife!
I have no direct experience, but it seems many have had issues with the digital steering assist and 20" rims/tires. Not sure what would be causing that, but many claim to have vibration issues with that. Mine is a 2015 and I have 18" rims/tires so it is not an issue for me. I have not heard of anyone with the digital assist and 18" rims/tires having a problem. So you might want to stay away from the 20" wheels as a precaution.
Marty, I bought local when in Alaska. Down here I have gotten my pads from Wolverine Heater. But now I see they are defaulting on the website to Phillips&Temro which is the manufacturer. You can look on these sites and see what the dimensions of various pads are, the amount of oil they are designed to warm up, the wattage they use, etc. They are stick on pads meant only for metal sump pans. You can also have any pad you use on a timer. Have it come on a couple of hours before you go anywhere in the morning and the pads will have things warmed up. https://www.wolverineheater.com/collections/all-heaters You probably can find similar dimension and wattage products online at Amazon or can get thru O'Reilly's or Napa under various labels such as Kat's, ZeroStart, etc. The 50 watt unit on the Wolverine page probably would be great for automatic trans sump. I never have put one on a auto trans. When I lived in Alaska, I had a manual 4 speed in my Bronco. I haven't really given it a lot of thought till you brought it up. diyer2, what we are talking about is oil sump warmers, not engine warmers. No one is trying to warm up an engine via a oil sump warmer. We're talking about keeping the fluid in the sump warm. No block heater or any other coolant circulation heater will warm up the oil in the sump except only a slight amount. The pan will dissipate any warmth quickly. But that is what oil sump pans are designed to do. And it all depends on the level of cold one is dealing with. I don't care what synthetic brand anyone uses, at the actual -55F temps I experienced in Alaska frequently, no oil is going to move well. The standardized maximum CCS limit of even a 0w20 full synthetic is -35c / -31F. This last cold snap in Illinois went below that temp. Below -31F, even a 0w20 will exceed the manufacturers CCS maximum limits. One would have to warm it up to get within the OEM CCS guidelines for the motor. The oil may say it has a pour point lower than -31F, but the Cold Crank Viscosity below -31F will exceed the API and OEM CCS parameters. You will effectively be trying to move a very viscus fluid. Oh, something like a 5w20 or 5w30, the lower limit to meet the OEM CCS maximum is -30c / -22F. Below that and one should warm the oil. I am fond of 10w30 (conventional and synthetic) in many of my applications. There we are talking about -25c / -13F, and below that the oil needs warmed to meet the proper CCS. This is why I use heater pads extensively in the winter months. Everyone has to make up their own mind and live within their comfort zone. Cliff
The key is knowning what the various parts of the add pack do. TBN is a relative number. It offers a general overall view of the motor oil’s ability to control acids, but that is about it. A high TBN oil can go longer in terms of controlling acids, but will the polymeric viscosity modifiers also hold up as long as the TBN? What of particulate buildup over time and wear metals? TBN does nothing for that. TBN or even the base oil will not help if fuel or coolant dilution happens. do you know what molybdenum and boron are for in an add pack and how they work together? Neither has any relation to TBN but are very beneficial. One of the key additions to a strong add pack. How about zinc in conjunction with phosphorus? Again, neither are a factor of TBN but are required in any group of motor oil..... synthetic or conventional, gas or diesel rated. And there is calcium and sodium in varying degrees depending on the proprietary formulation. Those do affect TBN.
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