I took the alternative approach with my 2500. I lowered the back 2" with a set of McGaughy's shackles. $70. Just a slight amount of rake in the back instead of the "cat in heat" rake from the factory. Put on a set of 1500# SumoSprings cellular foam supports in the back that replace the factory bump stops. Act like airbags without the hassles. I can throw over a ton of material in the bed and the pickup just sits level. Went up one size in tires with some BFG KO2's also and no issues.
That is the beauty of SumoSprings.... the effect of air bags but none of the problems. I put a set of 1500 lb Sumosprings on my 2500. They just replace the bump stops and rest on the axle. A 15 minute job. https://www.supersprings.com/products/sumosprings/
I can see that. Whatever they do, if it doesn’t come with flex fuel capability, I won’t buy it. But then, I am hoping my 2015 2500 6.0 is the last one for me. I only put 5000 miles a year on it and don’t foresee any future situation in which this one is not up to the task.
The L96 is going nowhere. Maybe dropped from future 2500/3500 offerings, but Fuso is putting the L96 6.0 into its mid range cargo trucks starting this year along with the Allison trans behind it. And GM or any other OEM for that matter, must calculate in how much they will screw themselves over with their primary market for the HD pickups.... fleets. The L96 6.0 is one reason fleets buy so many GM HD pickups. If GM starts monkeying around with engine changes and starts moving in the direction their 1/2 ton engines have gone, it is likely to cause many fleets to jump ship and shop elsewhere. That article about work trucks was interesting, but not really much in the way of informative. And different segments of the country tend to favor different brands. In Iowa where I live, GM HD pickups are the majority by far. And the bulk of those business and fleet trucks are 6.0L. Like the local Key Cooperative that caters to the farm sector. Those guys have no problem pulling around double anhydrous ammonia tank trailers with the lowly Chevy 2500 6.0. Those anhydrous trailers, when the tanks are full, go well beyond the 13,500 lb towing capacity of the 2500. The key there is that there is no tongue weight to speak of. Those trailers are the draw bar variety. I myself have pulled double grain wagons with a 2500 6.0 and it did the job just fine. Both of those trailers, by themselves, exceeded the total GCWR 20,500 lb of the pickup. And each trailer was equivalent to the typical 5th wheel travel trailer in size. If individuals don't like the performance of the stock L96 6.0, then supercharge the dang motor and quit fussing about not having any performance edge. Turn that "dinosaur" L96 into a modern thoroughbred. The L96 has strong enough guts to easily deal with a supercharger. Why should GM have to come up with something for the smallest market segment for their HD pickups when one can just do it themselves and make sure it is done right.
Grumpy, thought I would give you a starting point article and you can go on from there... https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/533/base-oil-trends From the article..... A modern Group III oil can actually outperform a PAO in several areas important to lubricants, such as additive solubility, lubricity and antiwear performance. Group III base oils can now rival PAO stocks in pour point, viscosity index and oxidation stability performance.
The “blend” thing can be goofy. One has to know what they are getting. The syn blend I referenced is 25% PAO Grp IV and 75/% Grp II+. It gets to be a bit of a gray area between Grp II+ and Grp III. And depending on what factor is being addressed, Grp III has some properties that are better than Grp IV PAO. That is why I prefer mix of Grp IV and Grp III in the full syn stuff I use. The point being, there is no one group that does everything better. Even the newer NG to liquid sourced base oils are carving their own niche between Grp III and Grp IV. It ain’t your Daddy’s oil anymore. Even the modern mineral base stocks are far ahead of what they were 20 years ago.
I have some issues with 0w20 in that it requires a hefty load of viscosity modifiers to make that stuff. A 5w20 is much more robust and able to do the job with less VM. I would not really have a problem using a 20 weight oil, just that I would use a 5w20 instead of a 0w20. And the dealer or the OEM couldn’t tell the difference if they wanted to. it is those viscosity modifiers that break down under high heat and load.
Well partially correct. The Detroit engine typically operates between 1400 and 1500 daily on the highway. It uses a 10w30 syn blend, not the traditional 15w40 that most folks use. Yes, the Detroit Lubrication Manual says 10w30 is ok to use. So, no, a heavy weight oil is not used. None of that Lucas Oil Snot either. A HDEO of the same grade as what goes into my wife's Cadillac and my 2500. A 30 weight oil. And it has sprayers for oil onto the piston bottoms just like any small vehicles does. And while it does only operate at 1400-1500 RPM daily, it does so while moving around an average of 70,000 lb of truck and cargo, year round, from -25F to 105F. So the oil in it probably undergoes a lot more than in a little 1/2 ton pickup. On the oil samples, the oil viscosity remains very much in grade. No shearing, but then, the 10w30 has very few viscosity modifiers compared to a 5w30. How many pickups in America are moving around something close to their max GCWR on a daily basis? And what is the kicker, after over 856,000 miles it doesn't use any more oil than it did when new. It has always used about 2 qt or less in 22,000 miles. FE levels in samples are roughly the same, Chromium, lead, copper, tin, etc all roughly the same levels as when the motor had 50,000 miles on it. Significantly lower than the threshold set by Detroit on the motor. I will agree, it is not an apples to apples comparison, but some things are similar. Another example, GM calls for Mobil 1 5w30 in the wife's Cadillac. All it has gotten is Pennzoil conventional 10w30. Check the Petroleum Quality Institute of America website and their testing shows that the Pennz conventional 10w30 knocks the socks off many other oils, including many full synthetics (sorry Amsoil, but it beats even some of your Signature stuff of the same grade when it comes to NOACK ). PQIA even retested the product because they thought their data was wrong. It wasn't. Her Caddy is a 2006 with the 3.6L. Lots of timing chains running around in that engine with it's V6 DOHC setup. Many have had a lot of timing chain issues with that motor. Not ours. Purrs like a kitten and is a real keeper. And the Caddy (and my previous '98 2500 pickup) gets the same Final Charge brand ELC nitrite free red coolant as my Detroit 60 also gets (and the Cummins ISX before it). And my 2015 2500 will get it also when the time comes to change out coolant. None of that GM Dexcool stuff. I will agree that GM lowered the oil change interval. They did for the Caddy for sure. Was at around 11,000 now it is down to around 7000. But neither the caddy or the pickup only go 3000 miles on the oil. The pickup gets an oil change once a year, the Caddy gets an oil change at around 7000 miles. And that 12 year old car is still a keeper. And 3000 miles was the issue that started this discussion on my part. It is an archaic concept with modern oils and engines. Even my new Triumph Bonneville T100 900cc calls for a oil change at 10,000 miles. Of course, it uses a full syn. Triumph is not in the same game as the auto folks are when it comes to CAFE standards and such.
Well, the OLM algorithms assume the oil meets the minimum GM standard. I know it has nothing to do with time on the oil, since I changed my oil yesterday and it was 13 months from the last change with about 4100 miles on the oil and 45% left on the OLM. Even using E85 for most of the last year didn’t really affect OLM.
I generally concur with what techs think, but not always. Many of them are no more up to speed on things than their non tech counterparts, depending on what is being discussed. Coolant is one area where I find techs are woefully not up to date. I have had to have techs replace coolant because they put in the wrong formulation. And that correction was required per both the shop and the OEM. But their argument is "coolant is coolant". Had a Cummins shop in Des Moines have to replace the coolant after filling with the wrong stuff. A tech in a Cummins shop should know better, right? And oils come in a close second along with oil change intervals. Like everyone else, they generally base it on "feeling" and the way daddy did it and hardly ever on real testing and evidence. I have no problem if someone wants to change their oil every other week. Not my money. But to rely on what a tech says or does probably should be taken with a grain of salt. The same techs would think I am bonkers for taking my commercial vehicles 50% longer than the OEM recommendation for oil changes. But I have stacks of used oil samples showing I could go even longer. A Detroit 60 12.7L I have now has 856,000 miles on the engine. Original injectors, turbo, fuel pump, etc. And it still uses less oil than most of the GM pickups on this forum. 2 qt or less in 22,000 mile oil changes. And it gets a 10w30 HDEO syn blend. OEM says oil should be changed in 15000 miles / 300 hrs. It gets changed at 22,500 miles / 450 hrs. 50% longer. Many techs don't realize that for some of the add pack components to reach their full effectiveness, modern oils in modern engines should be taken longer than 3000 miles. There is plenty of evidence for this over at the BITOG website where there are many tribologists and lubrication engineers to explain it to anyone.
Supertech is a fine oil. On the diesel side, it is remarkably similar to Delvac in testing done by the Petroleum Quality Institute of America. You can find a laundry list of both name brand and store brand oils that PQIA has tested. It has been general knowledge that Warren Oil has been the primary blender of Supertech oils. Warren is the largest blender in the U.S. Check out any oil you want at PQIA....... http://pqiamerica.com I just did the annual oil change on my 2015 2500. I put on about 4100 miles since June 2017. So, 13 months on the oil. OLM still showed 45%. Added no makeup oil in that year. I use a Schaeffer 5w30 synthetic in it. On my diesel truck, I use a Schaeffer 10w30 HDEO syn blend. It gets 22,500 mile / 450 hr oil changes. Has 856,000 miles on the engine now. No major repairs. Original injectors, turbo, fuel pump, etc. Uses about 2 qt of oil over an oil change cycle. It has a 10 gallon oil sump. It takes a loss of one gallon to reach the add line on the stick. Oil samples look as good as when the motor had 50,000 miles on it.
I have been using E85 exclusively since last fall. Prices have been as much as $1 per gallon cheaper than regular E10, but mostly 70-80 cents a gallon cheaper. Sure, I lose about 3 mpg by using E85, but with the price spread, it is still a lower cost per mile to use the stuff. I don't like seeing the lower mpg, so I have to remind myself that I am actually saving a few cents per mile by using the E85. Of course, prices are different around the country so it might not be the best choice for everyone. I know one thing, my 2015 6.0L L96 really does a stellar job with the stuff. Runs far better on E85 than gasoline. Had to fill a 30 gallon drum with non ethanol gas today for my OPE and motorcycle, but filled the pickup with E85 again. Regular non ethanol gas was $2.96 a gallon and E85 was $1.85 a gallon. The best I ever got for a average with regular fuel that includes in town, rural gravel, highway, hauling, etc was around 14 mpg with my 2015 2500. With E85 doing the same thing, I get about 11 mpg. At 14 mpg and a gas price of $2.96 a gallon comes to an average cost per mile of 21 cents. With E85 at $1.85 and getting 11 mpg, the cost per mile hovers around 17 cents, for a net savings of 4 cents a mile using E85. Now I could be some sort of purist that claims they will never burn corn on their engine, but I am a businessman and it would be stupid of me to spend the extra money by not using E85 when the vehicle is made for it. This happened several years ago when we got hit with all those high gas prices, I could get E85 for $1 to $1.50 a gallon less than gasoline. My 2013 1500 5.3 lived on E85 for well over a year. And now my 2015 2500 is living on E85. These events have convinced me that flex fuel engines and the corresponding smorgasbord of fuel choices is a wonderful thing. I can choose the fuel blend that offers me the best bang for the buck and switch as seasonal prices change. Flex fuel capability is one of the primary factors that will go into any future vehicle purchase of mine.
Salt is only a part of my problem. Driving on gravel roads for a few miles every time the pickup goes anywhere compounds the issue in my case. While the cable may not bind up, having several inches of dirt and gravel that has turned to concrete on that spare is another. So, like others, my spare resides in the bed. And getting pounded by rocks and such on those gravel roads, the underside is not going to stay all nice and factory pretty. I just try to do a good spray off underneath from time to time. Oh, just did my annual oil change on my 2500. Put all of 4100 miles on it since June of 2017. OLM said still had 45% left. Ran on E85 for a majority of the last 12 months.
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