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Cowpie

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  1. It is Baxter's Naturals Peppermint Oil Spray. In actuality, it is a mix of peppermint and spearmint oils. You can tell by the smell it ain't Hormel.
  2. Better in what way? Just saying "better" doesn't quantify anything. It needs to be broken down and shown what aspects of the results are better. Just having a lower NOACK for instance does not always equate to better real world results. A valid comparison of results would show actual results from similar motors in similar situations. Group IV has a limited ability to keep additives in suspension. Group III has a far better ability in this regard. Amsoil's OE line is all Group III. Amsoil's XL is a blend of Group III and Group IV. Amsoil's Signature, while primarily Group IV, has some group III to aid in keeping the add pack in suspension. I have never seen a claim of using Group V in its Signature line. And if they do, what is the Group V being used? A Ester? Polyalkalene Glycol (PAG), Polyester, or maybe a Biolube? Some of these would not be advisable in a engine, but they are all Group V. Maybe Amsoil has some Group V in some niche products like compressor oils and such
  3. Whatever meets the spec and they can source from the lowest cost supplier. When my wife was buying her 2017 Equinox, I had a long chat with the dealership manager about this. He knew I was in business and used a lot of various lube products and was wanting to find another source for his bulk oil. I referred him to a couple of local distributors and told him to get some bids. I have no clue what he ended up going with. Now, for vehicle models that have specific brand recommendations like Mobil 1, the dealer carries some of that. And boy, do they charge a premium for it. I may have ragged on Amsoil, but I do use some of their niche products. Actually, I use about 5 different brands of lubes and oils. I am not a loyalist to any one brand for everything.
  4. And while Amsoil is a good product, it gets all of its base and and additives from the same places as everyone else. They get the majority of their Group IV from Mobil. They get most of their add packs from Infineum (Shell) and Lubrizol (Berkshire Hathaway... you know, Warren Buffet). Much of their Group III base oil comes from Chevron and Shell. Amsoil makes nothing. They are a blender, just like Warren Distribution, Schaeffer, and many other brands. Amsoil does tweak the blend from the basic spec it is blending to meet, and that does lead to some better features in some of their products. But Schaeffer, for one, also does similar.
  5. I take a little exception to some of that. Amsoil rarely uses any Group V. They primarily use Group III and Group IV. Also, I would love to see synthetic calcium, synthetic sodium, synthetic zinc, synthetic phosphorus, synthetic boron, synthetic molybdenum, etc. I have never seen synthetic versions of these additives. All of these a common additives in motor oils including Amsoil, Redline, and all the shelf and store brands.
  6. Agree. But the cheapest in price is not always reflective the quality. Periodic sales pricing confirms that. The best one can do is find a oil that fits within their comfort zone and they sleep well at night using. And pay as little as possible for it. It takes a really lame modern oil of the proper spec to cause issues with an engine. Even most of the store label oils are more than up to the task. It is extremely rare that anyone has actual oil related issues. Most times it is operator screw up that is the problem or poor OEM design.
  7. I run both diesels and gas truck engines. I use Schaeffer in both. I use Schaeffer 7000 15/40 CK4 in summer and 7000 10/30 CK4 in winter in my diesels. My gas engines get Schaeffer 9000 5w30 year round. I would have nothing against using Mobil/Delvac products if I wasn't using Schaeffer in my diesels. For my gassers, probably one of the SOPUS/Shell products. My wife 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6, GM says it needs M1 5w30. I have used only Pennzoil Conventional 10w30 in it. A look at the testing results done by the Petroleum Quality Institute of America shows why..... I have no clue what Shell is doing with that product, but it blew away M1 and it gives Amsoil 5w30 and 10w30 a run for its money. It has a very heavy dose of molybdenum in it which is a very good thing, a great balance of Calcium and ZDDP complimented by Boron, and it has a NOACK level lower than M1 and close to Amsoil Signature. And I can get this oil for $18 for 5qt jug at my local farm and home store. Kinda knocks the argument that Group IV is the best argument on its ass. http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html
  8. All this "true" synthetic vs "faux" synthetic is wasted time. There are some features of Group IV that Group III doesn't have, and there are some features that Group III has that Group IV doesn't have. Actually, the best is a mix of both Group IV and Group III. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/533/base-oil-trends Even the best "true" synthetic will grenade and engine just as well as a "faux" synthetic if it doesn't have a good add pack. No base oil by itself will do the job properly. And Group III "faux" synthetic like SOPUS Gas To Liquid (GTL) made from natural gas, Group IV "true" synthetic is made from ethylene gas that is primarily sourced from natural gas. They are essentially the same end product. Oh.... and Group V is essentially everything that doesn't fit into Group 1 thru Group IV. There may not be any special to a oil that falls into the Group V category. Some of those are fine for use in an engine, some are not. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups
  9. I have had good results with a couple of techniques on all my vehicles. I will change out the cabin filter, and while the filter is out, I spray a peppermint oil / water mixture in the filter area and up into the duct work. The engine, wash it and let it dry. Spray the same peppermint oil / water solution on the engine and engine compartment. For the filter air box, I drop in a few moth balls in there. I live on a farm in central Iowa. This method has stopped much of my problems with mice and such. The little buggers would nest up frequently in my vehicles and equipment especially come cold weather. Not so much anymore.
  10. Well, I just turned 1,028,490 miles on my 2012 Freightliner. Detroit 60 12.7L engine all original except for water pump. Still uses only 1 qt in 11-12,000 miles. Oil samples look as good as they did at 50,000 miles. Oil changed at 22,500 mile / 450 hr average intervals. OEM recommended drain is 15,000 miles / 300 hr. All it has gotten is Schaeffer 7000 15/40 in summer and 7000 10/30 in winter. The 7000 product is a blend of 75% Group II+ and 25% Group IV PAO. Still trying to figure out how some boutique oil like Amsoil could have done any better. And since I get Schaeffer for my commercial needs, I just go ahead and have oil thrown in the order for my GM vehicles. The 9000 5w30 for both my 2015 2500HD 6.0 and 2017 Equinox 2.4. The 9000 product is 75% Group III and 25% Group IV PAO. I think some fail to recognize that 20%, give or take a little, of any motor oil is additive package. And it is the add pack that really makes the most difference in how well a particular oil will perform.
  11. Yep, the 6.6 and 7.3 are very close on the charts. The entire drive train will determine which one has an edge out here in the real world.
  12. Seat the rings? A Dmax already has the rings "seated" before it is dropped into the vehicle. Same as any other diesel. Daily, diesels go from the dealership right to full time work. Be it the little diesels in these pickups on up thru 15L offerings in Class 8 trucks. Nothing has to be "seated'. Fleets take 3/4 and 1 ton Dmax pickup trucks right to work and don't follow any "break in" regimen and their vehicles typically last longer than most private users.
  13. I realize it may sound goofy, but white is the preferred color if one lives on rural gravel roads. It actually shows dirt less. I have a white 2015 2500HD and a white 2017 Equinox. And I got very good deals on both. As for any rust that starts in the rear section of the 2500, it will give me the justification to yank the box off and go with something else, like an aluminum flat bed.
  14. Follow what others are getting with their diesels doing similar as you are and compare their MPG with local diesel fuel cost and see what the cost per mile would be. Compare that to the cost per mile for fuel you are getting now. Then you can see if making the move would be worth it. From various postings I have seen, many seem to get around 20 mpg average for empty stuff and around 14 for towing stuff. That puts things right at around maybe 18 overall mpg. For the fuel costs in my area, that is just break even with the cost per mile I have with E85. When you focus on cost per mile, the mpg thing will not be so disappointing. Think like a bean counting business owner when it comes to these things and run the numbers to see how you really are being affected one way or the other. There is more overall cost to using a diesel, and if fuel cost per mile is similar, using diesel can be a negative. If you have a real need for the power of a Dmax on a daily basis, then it can be justified.
  15. It is relative. The better mpg of a diesel is just feel good and nothing really of substance. My 2015 2500 6.0, I primarily use E85. Overall mpg with the stuff has been around 11. Not stellar, but not bad. That equates to about 17 cents a mile fuel cost at the current $1.88 for E85. A Dmax 2500 could probably average 18 mpg overall, but with the current cost of diesel at $3.03 in my area, that is just break even on cost per mile for fuel. Same cost per mile as my 6.0 using E85 and getting lower mpg. So, at least in my area with my local fuel costs, there is no appreciable advantage to go with diesel. Each person has to make up their own mind.
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