That Redliine CCS is not a number derived from the industry standard ATSM D5293 cold crank simulator testing protocol. It really means little in terms of comparison. A 172 VI is nice but many other oils have VI's in that range. Pour point is good, but it is the CCS that really is more important. And without showing the ASTM D5293 testing number of that CCS, "mind numbing" is purely subjective. And the "dirty little secret" that doesn't get told by the predominately PAO only oil folks is that it isn't only PAO. PAO has problems with keeping additives in suspension. A fact well recognized. That is why they are not PAO only motor oils even when they claim they are. And considering that any motor oil is up to 20% additive package, keeping it in suspension is paramount. But lets take a look at NOACK numbers. A Pennzoil conventional 10w30 has a lower NOACK than most any full blown synthetic (including primarily PAO) around of the same viscosity. The Petroleum Quality Institute of America randomly tests various oils off the shelf to see what they are comprised of and if they meet the standards they claim. The Pennzoil conventional 10w30 came in with a NOACK of 4.4. PQIA didn't believe it so they rechecked. It came in at 4.2 on that check. Some have speculated that the base stock is primarily the newer NG to liquid base oil, but no one is sure. And GTL base oils are considered a Group III. What is fascinating is that PAO's are sourced from the ethylene gas that is primarily derived from natural gas. So the GTL group III base stocks might be very similar to PAO's in several ways, and a heck of a lot cheaper to make. And the Pennzoil conventional 10w30 far exceeds Dexos1 oil standards by a comfortable margin. And the add pack is what really makes a good motor oil. Base stock is just the starting point. But even the best base stock will grenade a motor if it doesn't have the proper add pack in it. Folks get all hopped up over base stock when it is the add pack they should really focus on. And that information can be found if one takes the time to look. One can also find out some of it by just getting an oil they are considering using and send in a virgin oil sample to one of those $25 testing sites like Blackstone, Polaris, etc.. A general breakdown of the oil makeup can be determined. And in that regard, I only consider a motor oil with a well balanced ZDDP combined with a boatload of calcium (detergency) and a healthy dose of soluble Molybdenum. My base oil consideration does not take precedence over those considerations. And the Pennzoil 10w30 puts many other high ticket oils to shame in terms of the add pack. It has the most moly I have seen outside of Schaeffer oil, another brand I use frequently. And they really ice the cake with a healthy dose of boron. It is one of the best motor oil concoctions I have ever seen. A real sleeper considering I can buy 5 qt jugs of the stuff at my local farm and home store for about $16. That is why my wife's 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6, which GM said requires Mobil 1 5w30, gets a Pennzoil conventional 10w30 and has for almost the entire time we have owned it. None of the timing chain problems many others have experienced with the motor. Will be keeping this car for a lot longer. It is one of the best cars I have ever owned. Oil is changed around 6000-7000 miles. http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html I use a Schaeffer blend in my 2015 2500 6.0. 75% grp III / 25% grp IV PAO. At some point may move the pickup over to the Pennzoil 10w30. Schaeffer is my commercial oil supplier and the 2500 is part of the business so it gets the same brand of oil (not same viscosity) as my commercial stuff. It gets a one time a year oil change, in June/July. http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/schaeffersyn.htm
Cowpie started following Will a 2" Leveling Kit affect towing?, How are the trucks in high Elevation in the mountains, 2016 6.6 Duramax Tuning and and 5 others
Cowpie replied to skiphusky's topic in 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraNot a 1500, but my 2015 2500 6.0 just did a road trip to Wyoming. I did a E85 only trip this time. Been using E85 for the last year continuously. The 6.0 in the 2500 did a fantastic job at altitude. I think that could be partially due to the higher oxygen content of E85.
The SCR and DPF really last a lot longer and few problems when the EGR is shut down. That can be done via software. Kennedy does it. I have found just shutting down EGR reduces many problems and allows many diesel motors do a pretty good job. Greatly reduces soot loading of the oil also. Not one negative thing and the easiest, least costly thing one can do to improve diesel motor performance. Warranty far less in jeopardy.
Yeah, there is some truth to the CAFE deal going on. But that doesn't negate the fact that in most situations a 20 weight oil will still do a fine job of lubrication. And the gooberment requires an OEM to recommend the same grade of oil that they used in the testing stage for fuel economy and such. I really don't get all worked up about viscosity. Many use a 40 weight in heavy diesels, but I have grown quite fond of 30 weight in my heavy diesels. Folks can use a 20w in these pickup truck motors with little problem, but I would probably still use a 30 weight in them. I have just found that 30 weight oils cover all the bases very well in a wide variety of motors and applications. From the Kawasaki motor in my John Deere zero turn mower on up thru the 12.7L diesel in my heavy truck, everything in my stable gets a 30 weight, only the brand and type differs. And that heavy truck moves up to 80,000 lb of truck and cargo year round on a 30 weight oil. It now has 868,000 miles on the motor and it uses less oil than most of the pickup trucks on this forum. No more than 2 qts in 22,500 mile oil changes.
Like I stated, i have been using E85 exclusively for about a year. I am on a trip to Wyoming right now. Decided to do an E85 only trip just to see how it would do at altitude. It seems to get a slightly better MPG at higher altitudes, not earth shaking but noticeable, Could be due to the higher oxygen content of the ethanol. Not towing on this trip, just hauling. It has averaged about 13.4 for all miles... highway, dirt roads, towns, etc. The cost spread is such that even with the lower MPG, it is roughly the equivalent fuel cost per mile as diesel offers if a diesel was getting 19-21 MPG.
Well, most of my running around is usually in the upper Midwest. I have been using E85 for the last year continuously. Decided to do a E85 only trip to Wyoming this week. The average MPG has been around 13.4 for the entire trip, including some back roads above Buffalo, WY. Diesel in this area is going for about $3.31. I and getting E85 for about $2.43. So 13.4 MPG with $2.43 price is about 18.7 cents a mile fuel cost. With diesel, I would have to average almost 18 MPG to break even on the cost per mile. I suppose it is possible, but that is only break even. Diesel in a 2500 would have to get 19 MPG and better to have any kind of an edge, in the same situations as what my 2500 6.0L is dealing with and using E85. At home the prices are $1.91 for E85 and $3.08 for diesel, so a Dmax would have to get even more MPG just to break even on the cost per mile since the price spread is larger. Frankly, that is one reason among many that I never considered the DMax. Not really any appreciable savings on a cost per mile basis, and a lot more expensive in not only purchase cost but operation cost in the long run. Under the right situations, Dmax is the only way to go. For many others, maybe not so much. One thing that seemed goofy and I can only attribute to the higher oxygen content of E85, is that at high altitude I actually got a slightly better MPG on E85. Not a lot, but noticeable. No, not towing, but I wouldn't be towing on this trip with a diesel either.
Yeah. The 53' van trailer for my semi truck is about 13,000 lb empty. Even empty, I know it is back there and feel it. I find it hard to believe that the same weight trailer on a pickup truck, one can hardly tell it is back there.
Mine is pure stock. I have used E85 exclusively for about a year. The price spread is just too good to pass it up. All miles.... town, highway, hauling, gravel roads, off road on property, everything.... it averages about 11 mpg. Not sure if it is putting out more power and really haven't cared. It is putting out at least as much since there has been no change in performance. It runs great and very smooth on the stuff.
It really all depends on where you drive and what you are doing. I have 4.10 in my 2015 2500, but most times I stay in manual mode and rarely go to 6th unless I am on the interstate. The hilly two lanes I frequent more than anything else, actually keeping it in manual mode and 5th is more efficient as the pickup doesn't do all that goofy shifting on every little hill. Most of those two lane roads I drive on, I typically don't go more than 60 mph. If I was in 6th, the pickup would downshift on every little mole hill. By leaving it in 5th, shifting rarely happens and the transmission runs cooler. And fuel efficiency is better. One needs to keep in mind, the L96 6.0 reaches 90% of available torque at roughly 2000 RPM. I have had various ratios over the years in different pickups. I have found 4.10 is just about the best overall ratio. Only time it really is not the best is if one likes trying to bust that sound barrier every time they drive. For that, I would prefer a car over a pickup. Even then, I can get most of that out of my system by hopping on my Triumph Bonneville.
To some degree, but one can get Sumo's with various pounds of support depending on what they need. But being of a cellular structure as opposed to timbrens, they act very much like air bags. And, they do not need the air balancing that air bags require for cornering and such. When loads shift or cornering goes on, air bags without air balancing will actually magnify the lean and subsequently reduce the margin of safety and control. Sumo's do not have that problem. But your assertion assumes stock height of a 3/4 also. Mine is lowered 2" in the back via McGaughy's shackles. With a gross load on the pickup, it sits right at level with the Sumo's. When empty, they provide very little in the way of resistance support to the suspension. Try that with a set of air bags with the right load of air for a gross load and leave that air pressure in there when empty and see the results.
Well, like I stated, it did pull 17.5 average running 65+ on a 1000 mile trip a couple of years ago. I will mix this in also.. while I generally have gotten 14 average for all miles.... highway, city, rural gravel, hauling etc.... I also seem to average about 11 mpg on E85. Sure that sounds lousy, but it actually isn't. At 14 mpg for regular E10 going for about $2.62 a gallon right now near me, that equates to about 18.7 cents a mile fuel cost. At 11 mpg for E85, which is $1.82 near me, that equates to about 16.5 cents a mile fuel cost. A 2 cent per mile savings. That is why my 2500 has been on E85 for almost a full year now. Not that I have some sort of love affair with ethanol, but the simple idea that my pickup can use it and it offers a much better value.
Cowpie replied to Gorehamj's topic in The GarageOn the commercial side of things, synthetics are where it's at. Just by using synthetic gear lube in my heavy truck differentials and transmission, the OEM fo those components automatically extends the warranty 50%... from 500,000 miles to 750,000 miles. No special agreement or paperwork. Just use synthetics. So it must make a difference. And those components, by using synthetic, the OEM recommended drain interval on them is 500,000 miles. So the OEM will extend the warranty, no questions asked, and that is even with a 500,000 mile drain interval. Standard base oils have indeed come a long way in the last 20 years. Group II and III mineral base oils are light years ahead of what they were 20 years ago. And there is also the Natural Gas derived base oils that are bumping up against Group IV PAO base oils in quality and capability. That makes sense. Group IV PAO oils are made from ethylene gas, which is primarily sourced from natural gas also. Either way, the add pack in the motor oil has as much or even more to do with the quality of a motor oil. 1/5th of any motor oil is additive package. Even the best synthetic base oil will grenade a motor without any of the beneficial add pack components.
I took the alternative approach with my 2500. I lowered the back 2" with a set of McGaughy's shackles. $70. Just a slight amount of rake in the back instead of the "cat in heat" rake from the factory. Put on a set of 1500# SumoSprings cellular foam supports in the back that replace the factory bump stops. Act like airbags without the hassles. I can throw over a ton of material in the bed and the pickup just sits level. Went up one size in tires with some BFG KO2's also and no issues.
That is the beauty of SumoSprings.... the effect of air bags but none of the problems. I put a set of 1500 lb Sumosprings on my 2500. They just replace the bump stops and rest on the axle. A 15 minute job. https://www.supersprings.com/products/sumosprings/
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