tanner709

+1, I got this with the stock block and it scared the hell out of me thinking it was drivetrain noise. Put the rcx in and greased it, no issues since!

It's an expensive filter, and most guys have free air filters for the first 2 years. I don't see any value in buying airaids filter... the tests were done with the stock filter and it performed well. The MIT accounts for the power difference.

Is anyone running RC 2.5" with 295/70/18 (34.25x11.6) or equivalent? If so please list your wheel specs, and tire brand, and/or fitment issues. I really want to go a little bigger than 33, seeing as it's only a 1.5" increase but if thats all I can fit I'll stick to 275/70/18 and still have an acceptable MPG.

How long did it take you guys to receive your n-fab nerf bars? I called on my order and all he could tell me was that it was 10-15 business days to process the order prior to being shipped... kind of turned off from even suggesting them to anyone in the future. If I would have known this, I probably would of just paid an extra $30-40 and went with ebay as opposed to direct from n-Fab. It's basically going to be 4-5 weeks before I see my steps. Ordered them on Dec. 19, I'll post up some pics and date when they get in.

What's your wheel/tire setup specs?

How are the mastercraft tires holding up? Can you give us a breakdown on wear, road noise, quality, etc. oh and of course.. price and size. Nice truck by the way.

If you don't plan on lifting the front 2.5" then the 2" kit is the route to go. The 2.5" kit is the 2" kit + an extra 0.5" front strut top hat spacer and the rear block (swaps out the stock 1" for a 2" block). So to answer your question I believe you're looking for just the 2" RC kit which is a good choice but your truck will be level and have little to no rake. As for the tires sizes you listed... 285 is 11.2" wide and not 11.8", you shouldn't have any problem fitting the 285/65/18 although it is wider, it is not as tall just an FYI. I guess you need to iron out what it is exactly you want, hope this helps!

@f8l vnm Depends on the kit/brand etc. but sounds about the average price. You could purchase the kit yourself and probably get it done cheaper @5RWill, wish I could tell you but I didn't upgrade prior to the full 2.5" install.

Stock height on a double cab sierra, I was sitting at 36" front, 39.5" rear. 2" RC level left it at exactly 38" front and 39.5" rear. From my experience and time on this forum it seems the shorter the cab the steeper the stock rake. Crew Cab requires about 1.5-1.75" to look level (front raise only) Double cab requires about 1.75-2.25" to look level (front raise only) Single cab requires ??? The stock single cab long box seems to have the steepest rake from the factory - due to the weight spread i'm assuming that's why everyone here has different opinions. Also it depends if you are considering fender height vs box level vs body level etc. I have the 2.5" rc kit in now on my double cab and it has a bit of rake - but it is a truck and I do haul things around in the back so that's what I was going for. A lot of people are opting out of the 1" rear increase on the crew cab because they are naturally more level from the factory. Personally, when I see the nose of a truck higher in the air - even on those 200K+ SEMA builds I cringe. It's face down, a$$ up, not the other way around. Get it right

The proven numbers are in the completed tests, which can be found just a couple pages back. The MIT has the best HP gains out of any intake for our 5.3L.

Airraid discount, anyone have any information? very interested in the MIT!

From what I've read...the Airaid MIT is the best option and best price, why go any other route? I'm sold on it... Where/what is the discount code for airraid? Thanks

-12 or +18 offset? Looks great. I'm leaning towards those wheels in black

It gets better but doesn't quite match with the 35w 5000k. I'd suggest 4500k if anyone wants a true match. Or like you said, a 55w kit, which I wish I would of opted for now.

I think this lift or the 5" fabtech is ideal. Suits the truck very well and not "over-the-top". Nice truck btw

My ddm 5000k kit does not match my LEDs very well. Weird, seeing as yours looks like a perfect match, maybe I received 6000k bulbs by mistake

DDM is garbage, 100%. I wouldn't pay more than $5 for their kit. Nothing but issues with my Kit since I've got it. Nothing works correctly, one ballast burnt out, now the relay issues.. Haha. You really get what you pay for. I'm going to invest in a quality set and take the hammer to the ddm relay and ballasts.

Autocorrect Woops. 5000k in the ddm kit does not match the LEDs. I'd suggest 4500k. 5000k vleds fogs match the stock LEDs in the sierra headlights well

It's unnecessary for the 2" level - no need to do either. Loosen the top strut nuts is really the only extra step I found was needed, it can be installed slightly easier than they describe.

I agree 5000k hid does by match the LEDs or 5000k LEDs I got from v-led. I wish I would of opted for 4500k

The 2" is $65 and the 2.5" which includes the 2" blocks/hardware + front strut tophat, rear blocks and u bolts is $150. You could round up 4 nuts and 4 bolts for $10 and level the truck if you wanted.

When you say factory warranty, you have to realize that a level affects suspension only. Therefore the only warranty that can be voided (if possible) is suspension components - and front components at that. It is really dealer dependant because some dealers will be sticky and others won't care to put up the fight. My dealer told me there would be no issues with a level, or lift, installed by a reputable garage (which they work with). $150 for the level and $100 labour(I helped the mechanic). With factory tire size, and a 2.5" rough country level, I've seen about 1L/100k increase which is about 1.35 mpg decrease. I'd recommend rough country for price, warranty, and quality. There are many other good brands out there which I cannot speak to.

Most local auto parts places will sell a "add-a-fuse" or add a circuit, they are a fuse add-on which are very useful

Use a multimeter to detect which circuits come on with the turn of the key by checking voltage drop across the two fuse port terminals. Put it in DC voltage mode, aside from that a test light would work in the exact same setup. It's worthwhile to have a cheap meter around for small mods and tests like this