Sooperdave

Good to know! Thanks for the info.

Changing out the brake lines is a great way to firm up the overall system. I may be adding some when I decide to do my brakes to help add additional braking power. Don't let the negative comments keep you from doing anything. According to Stoptech website, they offer the front set part number#950.66002. Good luck!

I made my own conclusion. I flipped the label and ran in the orientation as the OE shocks. If you look at most OE shock/strut bodies, the boots are typically on top. With this particular boot and type of shock it really shouldn't matter. This boot is sealed at both ends to protect from elements. I think it looks better with it up as well.

I don't think it really matters but I installed mine just like factory... boot on top. I actually removed the label and flipped it so it reads correctly.

Good deal! Very happy with mine!!

So I installed just the rear 5100's along with the Hellwig swaybar. Completely night and day difference in how connected to the road the truck feels and handles. This is an NHT truck. I mean it feels solid! It feels like the shocks are actually "absorbing" the roughs in the road instead of ignoring. It's crazy. I'll be installing the fronts very soon.

Finally bit the bullet on an exhaust... I was itchin for a little more power and sound. Ended up with the MBRP Aluminized S5086AL 3.5" system after some good reviews of the sound. Very happy! Found a killer deal in the Amazon Warehouse..$268 shipped. Parts came in brand new, intact, and with all hardware. Score! I decided to order the Summit SS lapband clamps to use for connecting points instead of the U-bolt clamps so no crimping. Got the old sewer pipe out in 1pc just in case I wanted to swap it back for some reason. Installed the new system sewer system piece by piece and everything went together perfect although I did have to massage one hanger. Snugged all the clamps checked for clearance, then tightened them up. I'll do a recheck of all the clamp bolts after running a few hot/cold cycles. Sounds really good! It's quite a bit louder but I like it. It honestly feels like there is more usable power down low. Seems stronger on little bursts when I mash the go pedal.

Thanks for the tips guys.. I'll be installing mine soon!

Yes sir!

Hell yeah!! My DC is an amazing piece of American work!!

Meant to say OEM HID color not OEM color... That would be a lower temp. Good luck with the blue stuff!

Wow indeed! It's night and day. I think I was misunderstood.. 4500K for OEM HID look not the crap our trucks come with. That would be an even lower color temp. When you start getting higher on the scale such as a 5500, yes it starts to look blue. And blue is horrendous but that's just my opinion.

Hmmmm... I've found 4500k to be the closest to OEM color. The standard DDM kit I used on my G8 was this color and it was just perfect. Higher temps start getting away from that OEM look. Although it might be different with this new system they are offering so you might call them and ask.

Damn, here's another 6.2 in the 70's. Stock 15 Denali 4x4. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/179382-new-personal-best-2015-sierra-62/

There's always uni's. And of course conditions always which affect the DA. Sure 13's aren't fast for typical gearhead, but running some 13's in a 5500lb stock brick and get 20+mpg is impressive to me! Good luck with that 8sec beast!

This guy is all stock accept a bed rug and tonneau cover, lol. Be sure to run thru whole post. He keeps getting faster. Prolly due to colder weather. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/177154-2015-silverado-goes-1397/

I can't say I've seen a Denali with that low of a cutoff. Usually they are 99. It is something only in the 14's and it's ones with the Max tow 6.2 from what I've seen. Which wasn't available to Denali. Who knows..

It's the configuration/combination. Doesn't matter whether Chebby or Gimmy. I think mine is only 1 of a handful of this combo. Maybe one other on this board. I love rarity.

It's fun to go down the track in anything with balls. I'm itchin to bring mine... but the governor has been holding me back. I will have to tune it to increase the cutoff in order for me to even make a full pass. 92mph cutoff sucks! Probably some tires as well as there's now way it will hook with just 2wd. Trucks have come a long way though! SBC's have come a long way!!

Good lawd!!

Highly likely if found by GM and your having engine or transmission issues.

Sounds about right excluding pulls are generally not made in 4wd on 4x4 applications so you can't account for loss there. As I said before general rule of thumb for most shops is 20% for auto's and 15% for stick cars. It calculates out to be fairly close to factory ratings when doing the math. Excluding some that are underrated. And proven to be underrated based on track results. Such as many LS applications. You gave a good example with the LS6 in your Z06 as well as the 4thgen F-bods. They were pulling 280-300 stock in a stick car and were flywheel rated at 310hp. 15% loss puts them at numbers near the C5 LS1 ratings(15%). If the above truck was ran in 4th gear and lets say it made in the 285-90ish range as its base pull.. would it still be a 25% loss? Or will you be changing the percent based on where the flywheel number is? And I've seen a couple dyno pulls of stock 5.3 run in the 290 range and the 6.2's in the 340 range. Based on what the tuner said earlier which is typical, numbers are usually lower in 3rd gear pulls. A 20% loss on the 266 above number would be 332 fwhp. A lower than stock number. Sounds right to me. By any means am I trying to stir up anything in the other post or here and regardless how you calculate it, the above results are indeed impressive and I'm sure the truck runs damn good!! Simply, just stating my opinion from my past experience working at a late model gm performance shop from 2000-2008. Congrats to the owner!

Very Nice!! I'm digging the grill!!

I prefer the free NAV method. iPhone using either the Apple maps or Google maps. Free updates and works perfectly! I'll never ever buy NAV in a vehicle as it's a complete waste of money IMO. GM is not the only manufacture that charges for the updates just so you guys know. I work for Toyota and we charge the same here. Updates come out late October and generally run $170 per update.

I'll give it a shot! Thx!