iCryWheniGoPoop

save me a log file showing this, and send me a copy of tune. I will look it over tonight.

I'm 40' in the air on an oil rig right now trying to troubleshoot some automation issues, so bear with me, I'm thinking you were using HPtuners(I use both) so try this. Mimick all my Engine/Torque Management settings in the reference tune I sent you, then adjust your Driver Demand "A" settings just like in that same tune. Report back and let me know how it works.

No, either will work, if you go into WOT/PE your convertor will flash past 2k rpms anyway. FYI -Jon A. Has a very good write up on using a 180 thermostat for towing. That man is very knowledgeable and if you haven't done so, I would consider it for your towing application as well.

If you had 31" tires before, your speedometer will be off 6.4% and so will your MPG so.... 20.4mpg on a 19.2 display. Impressive at 19.2 on a 33... 20+ is damn near amazing. I wish I could drive like an adult.

Big is right about adding a wide band to a stock truck, definitely not popular but I'm one of those guys that likes to know how well the factory calibration dialed in. Needless to say, I was very impressed with these new DI motors, it's all the nannies that make me want to burn my face off.

Nice... if this is your first DI motor PM me your email and I'll send you a couple street tuned vehicle Calibrations to stick in your compare window so you can see what I did vs your stock calibration and if yours is E85 there are minor mods to those tables as well that made modest improvements to the power.

What are you using to make adjustments?

They are not as rich, no. I didn't add any fuel to overcome this, I simply adjusted values that lock out the WOT tables till the engine reaches 5k RPM and moved it down to down to 2K, then changed the multipliers in the WOT table to give me a 12.8-13.0 AFR when mashing the skinny pedal.

If I remember correctly, Mine was running around 11.6-11.8 at shift point running 10% but they run lean as hell till 5k rpms due to factory WOT fuel table delay parameters. They also run pretty close to commanded AFRs so MAF seems to be dialed in pretty well from the factory. I doubt I still have stock log from 2years ago but I can pull up a tune and tell you what the ECU is commanding if you like? I just don't hang onto all my scans after I complete a tune. I'll keep a few to record issues that I can reference back to if needed and a few completed tune scans to show customer what the vehicle is doing if he asks any questions.

I agree, the added angle doesnt help, but the amount in this 2" lift alone isn't going to decrease your suspension component life as much as many people lead you to believe. I ran a level with 285's on all my d-max 3500's and never changed a ball joint, tie rod components was another story, but the occasional 4wd launches with nasty tunes probably didn't help either. i didn't realize these wheels had over an inch of +offset. Bottom line... DO IT! Dealer isn't going to buy you ball joints if I'm wrong unless you can talk them into installing it for you.

2" RC level on mine. Picked it up for $20 on CraigsList and a $60 alignment at Pepboys has me at $80 total. I know this lift has been associated with ball joint issues but that's any lift and issues are mostly because people put bigger wider tires on with heavier wider wheels with a negative offset. Stay as close to stock as possible but 0 offset is ideal for less stress on suspension components. My tire size of choice to balance looks, fuel mileage and wear and tear will be around a 33-34" 10.50 tire (Currently eyeballing the Mickey ATZ) Pro's- Factory Ride Truck looks the way it should have looked from the factory. Room for bigger tires Cons- I need to buy bigger tires

Got ya

Ok... so non serviceable relays on Headlights but are you sure about the BCM supplying ground to a 10-15amp load. That is just not a common electrical practice because I'm sure the IO on the BCM has to be is the sub 1 amp range or the BCM would be twice the size. Thanks for the help

Title pretty much says it all... where are they? Thanks in Advance

double posted

Those bolts are to short... You are not utilizing the lock not and will more than likely experience issue with a nut coming loose. At minimum I would put red loctite on them to avoid issue. A good rule of thumb is no less than 3 bolt threads showing past nut.

I added a couple extra washers to the CV side

My '15 LTZ is shifting 6400 RPM and loves it. I am 100% stock minus the tune but I think that a good Intake and exhaust will be some good supporting mods, and probably show some respectable number gains on the dyno.

Picked this one up Friday... Mods have already started.

Picked this beauty up Friday had leveling kit on and emblems plasti-dipped by Sunday.

Yeah, just guessing by what I've done, I would say that I'm about 75% reduction on TM and shift firmness and can bark the tires, it's a little much actually but I'm just creating different levels of tunes for customers. Good to hear you are having good luck with another programmer. Hollar at me if you ever make it up around the Tulsa area, I'd like to check your tune out.

I have a good relationship with my dealer and they know about my tuning. They said once engineering requests a CVN history, I'm sol but they would do all they can to try to keep that from happening, whatever that consists of. I guess it just depends on what breaks. You have to pay to play though, ;-)

Jenna in no way claimed their tune is I undetectable, u might re-read. This thread is only Global-A vehicles and is 100% detectable with the exception of 1 popular handheld programmer who claims to be undetectable.Previous year silverado gas vehicles were undetectable if returned to stock calibration.

It did show about 3-4% change in fuel trims but I did my exhaust at the same time so I can only speculate how much it actually helped. I noticed no difference in relieving any of the factory KR by adding the exhaust/removing CaliCat. FYI... Factory calibrations at part throttle are aggressive for 87 octane though.

I just removed mine, if there is any change when removing/hollowing out, it would be for the better.