bdbake01

I think it was $10.99 w/ a $5 mail in rebate. Bang for buck = off the charts.

Well, air is air. And fuel is fuel. To make it all work you have to have the appropriate amounts of both. With fuel, you can actively pump it into the chamber. With air, it's at the mercy of fluid dynamics. If you have any deposits on your valves (read up a bit, you'll find that it's a issue with virtually all DI engines), then you're not getting the air that you should.

As in BG cleaning products or catch can? If cleaning product, well the CRC was just a few miles down the road at Autozone (very handy) and it seems to be getting good reviews. I'll certainly throw my hat in that ring as it certainly worked well, results were immediately obvious from the moment I cranked her back up. The purpose of the post wasn't to tout CRC. I could care less so long as it worked. My point was to share my experience with intake valve cleaning and the benefits therein.

While I don't really disagree with you, I also don't want carbon deposits building up on my intake valves. But alas, that's exactly where we seem to be finding ourselves these days. My guess is that it softens them. Loosening is a difficult thing for a chemical to achieve. A solid piece breaking off and going through the cylinder sounds more like mechanical removal. Besides, you're kidding yourself if you don't think little bits will naturally begin to break off and fly through the cylinder. Probably the big ones too. As for washing of the walls, meh, even if it did it would have a very minor if any effect wearing of the walls long term. The area above the rings shouldn't have virtually any oil anyways.

Nope, but guess who just ordered an ADD W1 :thisguy:

Ok, so lately I've been noticing the 6.2 stumbling a bit, hesitating, lower mileage - even more than expected for winter - etc. and began getting more concerned about intake valve buildup. 26k miles after all. Decided to Seafoam/CRC. Went with the CRC GDI IVC because #1- it appears to be a product developed specifically for this application instead of generalized top engine cleaning such as Seafoam (which I'll say has served me well in the past and may do just fine) and #2- Anything with a name comprised entirely of acronyms must mean business. Oh. My. God. The difference was simply amazing. I guess the bad behavior had sneaked up on me, but I had no idea just how bad it had gotten. Worth EVERY penny. Even has a $5 mail in rebate right now. I'm gonna do this every 5k miles. Rough idle - gone Off idle stumble - gone Not-so-smooth acceleration - gone Power - it's back Mileage - early reports from ~100mi would suggest absolutely no less than a 4 mpg jump. No joke. Amazed I was expecting a big puke of soot, but nothing. Nada. Not seeing that made me think it hadn't worked, well boy o boy was I wrong! If you have 10k or more on your truck go to Autozone NOW and grab a can. Only takes an hour total and you will thank yourself for it!

Forgot all about ice. Check ice first.

Oh yeah. Dealer. Warranty. CPU done lost its mind. Could be wiring/sensor failure as well. Either way, dealer, warranty.

Oh yeah. Dealer. Warranty. CPU done lost its mind. Could be wiring/sensor failure as well. Either way, dealer, warranty.

Don't take my word for it then. But as the owner of 3 of these, I can tell you that the sound of the rollers in the tracks MORE than masks any sound coming from the opener itself. Not much that can (affordably) be done about that.

A genie screw drive is in no way similar to a jack shaft. Other than the possibility of both opening a door. Two totally different beasts. Look up a Liftmaster 3800. Worth every penny. EVERYBODY who has seen my garage goes on and on about it. And a cog drive is a train wreck in terms of noise compared to mine. You have to seriously try hard to hear mine operating period.

You want quiet, get a jack shaft.

Just curious, for those of you who are having distance issues, is your garage at street level or higher?

You dropped it 3/5 and put on dubs of the first order...no offense but realistically what did you expect?

Neither really, just higher emissions. A/F is controlled by O2's ahead of the cats. In severe cases it can lower the O2 temps and throw error codes. Our trucks don't seem that sensitive.

Seems to be an appropriate thread for this. Looking for ideas. I'm 99% of the way there for my "perfect" exhaust note. One lingering issue is what I'm calling the "flapper slap". Go ahead...make fun. Or come up with a better name. Basically I have the tone & volume that I want, but when I cold start or rev it, the flapper slaps open, then closed, and maybe open again a few times and I get a metallic, clanky noise when it hits full open/closed. I need to dampen this just a bit to take the edge off. I like the adaptive nature of the valve, it does good things to the tone at the right times IMHO, but I need to get rid of the slap. Open to ideas. To be honest, I haven't tried much. Thinking of tack welding on some artificial stops lined w/ high temp/durometer rubber.

Just a thought. The 3rd cat does have some effect on the two primaries. It acts as a heat trap to keep the temps in the primaries slightly higher than they would be otherwise. This effectively increases the conversion rate of the primary cats and their efficiency. Conversion rate continues to increase with temperature to the point of sintering at which time the conversion rate plummets.

Or, maybe, there are other exhaust combos which don't, in fact, have any perceptable drone. Another option could be that looking at it from the other side of the coin, those who spent $$$ on an expensive, branded exhaust which claims to eliminate any drone feel better about their investment if they can claim that their $$$ was well spent and CLEARLY out performs the cheap options. Not trying to start a flame war, but I'm sure there are other people fully qualified to express an opinion about the presence or lack of V4 drone in what they hear. I have noticed one common thread though. You don't want drone? Keep the flapper. Seems Borla figured this out as well. The wife gave me down the road for months while I complained that I wanted something louder. "Why do you want that? I don't want to ride in some hopped up fart wagon" yadda yadda yadda. I decided to not listen, changed it anyway. Rode her around for over a month, even a long trip to the mountains and back. Was VERY careful to always let her get in the truck before I started it. On the way home one day I asked about the exhaust again and she expressed her opinion. Same answer, "NO!". Then I remote started it as she was walking toward the side door of the house. She spun around rather surprised and accused me of playing a trick on her. When the swelling went down in my eye I could see the smirk grin of "Ok, ok, you fooled me" on her pretty pretty face. She's a sweet gal.

Wishful thinking, but I can assure you that this isn't the case. Design wise, maybe, but not manufacturing itself. This is a QC problem.

Soooo...they kinda painted the diff a bit???

Yep. Totally missed it. Sorry!

Throttle response is not power, though untrained I'll admit that these trucks seem a bit pokey for the power they contain. BUT!, they most certainly are trainable. Just drive it like you stole it for a few weeks and she will perk right up. Then you have the best of both worlds! It's kinda like when I was running the 1/4 mi circuit in my Trans Am. Soooo many times some river would get a bit butt hurt when losing and say "Well yeah, but you have 8 cylinders and I only have 4 ". And I was like yeah...didn't you realize that when you bought it? Pop the good next time.

Which is rated what, only 410/429 with a .2L advantage on the GM mill and worse gas mileage? Ummm...swing and a miss?

(more) Powerful? Did Ram announce something that I missed???

What???