brclark82

I have had the Retrax Pro on my previous 2 trucks but honestly can’t remember why I chose that over the Retrax One. I know the Pro is aluminum and the One is polycarbonate but what benefits am I getting paying extra for the aluminum? There website doesn’t list many advantages that I can find.

While it is extremely helpful slowing a trailer down without wearing out your brakes in short order, it has very little value and I would probably find it annoying for everyday driving. It it wouldn’t hurt anything though, so whatever you prefer.

I can’t speak for the 2020 unfortunately but in the previous generation (15-19) the headliner was the same height regardless of sunroof or not.

The suspension looks like it’s handling it pretty well actually. Not a ton of sag, pretty level actually. You said it’s hurtin, is that referring to the engine being underpowered or just overall too heavy for the truck?

Also, don’t forget to re-torque that hitch after you put the weight of the trailer on it.

I have a retrax pro lockable bed topper on mine so that helps against thieves when I don’t wanna remove it.

Sweet setup! Come back and let us see the sweet rig when you get it all hooked up. Maybe some real world weights too. Costs $11 at a CAT scale if you never done it. Super easy and it will give you front axle, rear axle, and trailer axles (one weight for all trailer axles) with one weigh. You could do an empty weight before you pickup the trailer if you really wanna know what the pin weight/trailer weight is after you load it.

Exact setup I have, you’ll love it. And it’ll be easy to move to your one ton when you decide it’s necessary

Just trying to make sure you know what you signing up for, those toyhaulers can get very heavy, very fast! Also, good choice on the anderson hitch, they're awesome and easy to free up the bed when needed. Its what I use. Maybe someone else can help you with the acceptable sag, my truck sits about level with the Timbrens and around 1900lbs on the hitch but not sure about actual measurements. You should take the rig to a CAT scale when you get it just so you know what the actual weights are. Being over your GVWR is one thing but being over an axle rating or your tire load rating is another.

Glad I could help. It can get very confusing as most truck manufacturers are somewhat misleading when advertising capabilities (almost all advertised capabilities are with reg cab, short bed, WT, gas engine) And RV salespeople obviously aren't gonna talk you out of buying something. I will admit, I tow a 12,500lb 5th wheel with my truck and I am over my payload. I am under front axle weight rating, rear axle weight rating and combined weight rating but with the pin weight I am over the GVWR (10,000lbs) of my truck by 400lbs. I made this decision knowing that my engine/transmission/drivetrain/brakes can handle it (they are all identical to a 1 ton). I have added the Timbren SES to my rear axle and believe it helps with the slightly lighter rear suspension my 3/4 ton has. I would look into this if i were you, $200 and less than 30 mins DIY install. No difference unloaded ride quality but once you get enough weight it makes a big difference https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/Timbren/TGMRCK25D.html My next truck will be a 3500 DRW for sure. I would upgrade now if the tech from the '19 1/2 tons had already made into the HD's.

There are a few different things going on here. #1, that isn't how you calculate payload or tow ratings. Many trailers have a much lower % pin weight than most RV 5th wheels. Gooseneck trailers, horse trailers, car carriers etc have a much closer to 15% pin weight than the close to 20% RV's put on the truck. On a 14,400lb trailer that is 2160lbs vs 2880lbs, so while it may be possible for your truck to tow 14,400lbs it would have to be with the right setup. (Bumper pulls put even less weight on the truck) #2, a full tank of gas is included in those payload numbers so that doesn't need to enter your calculation #3, 2901lbs is actually very good for a 3/4 ton so that is on your side (my diesel High Country is only 2200lbs) #4, you mention a motorcycle so I'm guessing this is a toyhauler. That may actually play in your favor for the payload aspect. The pin weight you mentioned is pretty high for the trailer weight (22%), which is common for toyhaulers becuase most of the cargo is loaded behind the trailer axles therefore actually taking weight off the pin. They make toyhauler unloaded pin weight higher than normal so that when it is loaded it still is in the 18-20% GVWR of the trailer range. Lets take 2900-2300 (pin weight)- 200 (you)- 100 (hitch) That leaves you 300lbs of payload left to play with for luggage, tools etc. If it isn't a toyhauler and you are putting that motorcycle in your bed then you are well over payload.

Probably...5ers are really difficult for 3/4 tons unless they’re small. Check the sticker inside your drivers door, (the one with the tire psi info) and it will say “combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed xxxx lbs” Each truck has its own specific payload based on model/options and payload numbers from a website are for stripped down regular cabs so don’t google it. Thed add 2300lbs (that’s empty, probably closer to 2500lbs when you load it with stuff but that can vary) plus 150lbs for hitch and then yourself and any other occupants, plus anything else you may have in the cab or bed when towing. I can’t imagine you wouldn’t be well over the payload. With that being said, MANY people tow heavy 5ers with 3/4 tons. You see them all day on the highway and they are ALL over their payload. Especially with the diesels, the only real difference is an extra rear leaf and heavier duty tires (no 20” rims on 1 tons) but with the gassers there’s even more difference because of the rear axle. Ultimately it’s up to you but I’d hate for insurance to claim overweight limit in case of an accident, or being held responsible for negligence in a more serious circumstance or even worse something happening to you or you family.

I’m guessing your payload is around 2600lbs and that trailer is gonna have a pin weight real close to that. And that’s not including the weight of any people (including yourself) the fifth wheel hitch and anything else in the truck. I’m guessing you’ll be well over 500lbs over max payload probably more and that’s if the actual trailer weight is 13k and not the UVW which would mean the real world weight would be higher. 3500 minimum, preferably DRW for 5er that size. Also the 2500 gasser has a smaller rear axle than the 2500 diesels (same axle as 3500) so even if you do decide to go over payload (many people do) you’re also gonna be over rear axle weight rating which is even more concerning. I would reconsider your choice.

I didn't even notice the angles on the sides of the grill not matching. Still looks good though

I loved my Retrax Pro, not as bad with water leaks for me as some say. Super easy, secure, loved that you could lock it in place anywhere. Gonna get another one for my new truck.

Sweet! If I still had my 1500 od be looking into this for sure

So I have been reading almost every page of this thread and still can't quite make up my mind on tonneau cover. I unfortunately don't have any places around here that I can view any of these products in person and was hoping I could get a little feedback. BTW 14 Silverado 1500 High Country with 5'8" bed. Here is what I'm looking for: -Needs to be water tight -Needs to easily be able to use entire length of my bed -Looks are very important -Cost is least important I am considering these options and can't figure out the big differences with what I've read on here and other sites. -BakFlip Revolver X2- Currently Leaning toward this option -Truxedo Titanium- seems almost identical to Revolver -G4 Elite- seems like it would be the worst option when folded up but I may be missing something -ReTrax Pro- honestly can't figure out why it's so much more expensive but was hoping someone could give me an idea Or if I am missing an option please recommend Thanks