I had my 2015 Denali windshield replaced by Safelite. They were going to use 3rd party as per my insurance company (AAA). I called AAA and had to request to get an OEM glass due to HUD.
I bought 22" Michelin Premiers for my '15 Yukon Denali in Oct. Just in time for the winter season. Great traction in the wet roads. It also handle the snowy roads in Mammoth with no problem. Great traction! So glad I bought Michelins.
jl449 replied to markitzero's topic in 2015-2019 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon DenaliI have 2015 Yukon Denali with 22" wheels. I don't care for the OEM Bridgstone. We spend a lot of time in the Tahoe area and I didnlt like the feel of the OEM tire when we were driving in the snow. Just didn't feel secure with them. My old SUV had Michelins LTX and gripped pretty good. I also ran duratracs which were a great on the snow and looked very aggressive. This season I'm going to switch them out with Michelin Premier LTX tires.
jl449 replied to nashvilleGMC's topic in 2015-2019 Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon TroubleshootingRecently my 15' Denali engine light came on. Took it to the dealer and they said it was due to "rough idle". They said the they are going to replace the fuel injectors. I really never notice rough idle. This kinda suck because my Denali is on it's 3rd tranny and now this crap.
LAM, I went with GM navagation to unlock the HMI module instead of adding an external device for video in motion. It works great Contact/text GM navagation Tony for a quote/info. Just text your car make and model with options to him and ask him you would like your HMI unlock for video in motion. I'll pm you his phone #. or you can use the external device LINK... I don't have it but some have reported it works... I don't know.
Correct, I have to remove the 3" flapper and replace it with 3.5" to remove the restriction. I'm going to get this done as soon as I get my SUV back from the dealer. I'm going on the 3rd 8spd transmission.. ugh... As for the welds... never thought about the steel they're using. I'll ask them next time I go there. I had my 2002 tahoe exhaust done by them back in 2003 and the work they did held up to the day I sold it in 2015. The borla does look pretty cool... 2.5" x 2 does equal 5" so no restriction there. But you are still going from 3.5 to 3.0 right? isn't that a restriction? Or does it matter? Why did OEM go with 3.5 and not 3.0? I really don't know that's why I'm asking. You mention velocity.. but still don't understand. After I remove the flapper and replace it with 3.5 tubing will the Borla still out flow my setup? When I was putting my exhaust system together I wanted the best option and flow for the best price. Figured $260 was pretty good. Also Norcal SS dynoed his 16' Escalade 6.2L with the magnaflow 12909 and AFE CAI and his gain was pretty good (his results). Total cost woth CAI and muffler was about $650. But the dual exit on the Borla does look bad ass!! Also after watching this video I didn't want to go smaller tubing (I will remove the flapper!).
I went with a Magnaflow 12909 muffler only and paired it with AFE Momentum CAI for my 15' 6.2 suv Denali. Left the flap and resonator in place. Removing the resonator may create drone. The sound is awesome and very happy with the setup. I am going to delete the flap as it is 3" diameter vs 3.5" on all the OEM exhaust piping. I was looking at Corsa and Borla but for the SUV they are 3" tubing (Borla has 3" to 2.5" on muffler) vs 3.5" factory. Doesn't make sense to go with a smaller 3" tubing (SUV). I'll stick with the bigger tubing and the 12909 is 3.5" . $140 for the muffler fron Norcal SS and 120 installed at the local muffler shop.
I contacted gmpp direct. They offered me 100k for powertrain only $3600 max for engine and $2000 for tranny on my 15 Denali. The cost was $3500. The person failed to tell me my 15 Denali has 100k power train warranty from OEM. But she sure wanted my credit card #.
You will be able to do more with the Roku 1 and it only cost $49. You can use the 120V in the center console to power it up. By the way... you have a 2015 right? Your vehicle is not eligible for for Carplay not unless you go to a 3rd party for a software hack. I have 2 8 year olds and they can navigate through the device pretty good but have to be careful on what they pick. They seem to like Youtube. So my next project is to get my front screen unlock so I will be able to watch movies on the go so I can monitor what they are watching. I don't know about these kids today... I struggle with the PS4 and my smart phone and my 2 boys can figure it out faster than I can.. UGH. Best method and most reliable way is to do it software/firmware modification and add android Auto/carplay to it since it is a 2015 SUV. LINK
I have to make a correction to my previous post... My 2015i Denali has the rear overhead entertainment. It has the composite inputs (1980's technology! lol). So it's not limited on the USB port and the formats as Lee listed. DMOGIRL if you have the OEM overhead rear entertainment screen then you will have composite inputs on the back of the center console. If you don't then you are limited. But if you do then it will be easier to pickup a Roku 1 which has composite outputs. You can use your phone or if equipped on your vehicle your wifi hotspot to connect the Roku to the net. You will have Netflix, youtube and others. Forgot to mention have the capability of casting/mirroring a compatible smartphone. James
You can stream video from your iDevices. You can Miracast your device with the proper dongle. You can also do the following: 1. Buy an Apple digital AV adapter cable http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MD826AM/A/lightning-digital-av-adapter 2. Buy an HDMI to composite adapter. http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISHD01-MediaLinx-Composite-Adapter/dp/B00LUX1F5K As for video in motion.. its best to avoid any plug in adapters as it may cause issues with the system (hand shakes). It should be done by software to unlock the HMI module for video in motion. http://gm-navigation.com/gm/gmc-navs/2013-2015-gm-video-in-motion-and-navigation-unlock.html
I have the security package.. The the sunglass holder on top is replaced with the interior proximity sensor. Key fob is the same. Nice built in red led on the front midle top dash. When armed and you stick your hands inside (if the windows are open) the alarm will go off. I prefer alarm integration as to after market alarms systems. Well worth it IMO.
You should look into GM-navigations.com and consider using the software unlocking method instead of using the PAC device. I'm no expert but here is a quote from another tahoe/yukon forum explaining the issue with PAC like devices: "I'm not in the car audio business i'm in the vehicle networking/calibration/integration business. I own a company that does nothing but that and when things go wrong (as they do) we are typically the first call for many owners/dealers when they are trying to troubleshoot things like this, so we see it all. The good news is because of this we can break this down and help everyone understand why this is a bad idea. You guys remember modems? Remember the old 33.6K Modems? Remember how insanely slow those were? Ok so say nearly every module in the cabin relied on data supplied at a 33.6K rate and there is a ton of data to be had. Are you visualizing that? Good because thats EXACTLY the speed of the low speed bus in our vehicles and thats whats happening LOL So what these modules do is take data frames, intercept them and strip or change certain bytes and rebroadcast them. So you are interjecting a timing issue into an already slow bus speed and it leads to a slew of issues depending on temperature (most of these units aren't temperature compensated to save money) and bus load. So aside from power drain issues since these things don't wake up like the rest of the modules in the car and the fact they don't have a sleep mode to allow data to pass through to the radio head for programming (so you can't update the radio) when they are working they slow the response of the system down considerably especially with state changes IE backup cameras etc. Like I said the way they do this even bricks features on the 2016's because they rely on the state of the vehicle changing, with these modules it never does so if you ever wanted to upgrade to car play you wouldn't want this anyhow. I've got to get going but literally I just googled for two seconds and found these snippets which is pretty indicative to what we've seen in the past from people (all of these modules work the same way): "Plug everything in, and most importantly, test it before putting it back together! I thought I had tested this, but later found that the factory back-up camera would randomly not active or stay turned on all of the time" "I went through two of these, and they both had intermittent issues. It caused a slow/delayed backup camera activation when going into Reverse and the radio would randomly not turn on with the vehicle. I'd have to turn the vehicle off/on." Obviously at the end of the day its your choice and your truck, like I said just hate to see people get band aid products when there is a real OEM solution available that does more" FYI
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