dcarl

Phil, do you mean cut the connector off the harness and replace it with a 9006? Thanks for the help.

Hey Phil, I have a SLT. I just replaced the harness, capacitor, & ballasts..... I even ran a ground wire from the engine block up to the radiator support where the harness grounds to just to make sure I had a good ground. There is no corrosion in any connection. I use dielectric grease on my connectors to avoid that. Hopefully that's not what is causing my issue. I often have to turn the light switch off and back on a few times to get the lights to come on reliably. Sometimes they fire up just fine though too...

I'm running a full Morimoto harness with relays and ballasts. I've replaced everything but the bulbs and the igniters.

Has anybody encountered DTC B2575-04 and B2699-04 after doing your HID retrofit? All the research leads me to believe the BCM needs to be calibrated or something. I’ve replaced my harness and ballast. The lights have have been working but I’ve been getting a monthly On Star report that both bulbs are out for quite a while, but I’ve recently started experiencing misfires on one side or the other. Have to turn lights off and on a few times to get both to come on.

I didn't when I installed my Zone 2" and never noticed any problems. As far as cables go, I had to remove a ground cable when i installed a Zone Body Lift and add an extension they provided in the kit. Otherwise no problems at all. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

There is no adjustment on the rear. I'd suggest a set of air bags for the rear like Air Lift to adjust the rear when you have a load. I have the Ride Control bags (2000 lbs) with a Wireless One Controller. I tried the Load Lifter Ultimate (5000 lbs) with a Smart Air II Controller and it rode bad, so I swapped it out for the lighter system. Other people have not had problems with the heavier spring but I'm happy with the lighter one and I tow a heavy 30' pontoon boat and a 16' enclosed trailer loaded with motorcycles and it does fine. https://www.airliftcompany.com/vehicles/gmc/sierra-1500/2015/4-wheel-drive/?bed_style=69.3+in.%2F5+ft.+9.3+in.+Bed#l

This may be more than what you are looking for, but I have a set DL3 mirrors and harness from my 2015 Sierra SLT that are power fold, heated, auto dimming on the driver's side, and have the puddle lamps. The only thing you would have to add is a door switch.

Thought I'd post here since it seems like the logical place. I've been an AllDatadiy.com subscriber for years and they finally have the 2014 Sierra 1500 FWD available. Mine is a 2015 Sierra 1500 FWD, but I don't think there much difference mechanically between the two years. A 5yr subscription is $29.95 https://checkout.alldatadiy.com/adecomm/diyecomm/checkout?execution=e2s3 For those that may not be familiar with it, it's an online service manual with hyperlinks to the information. Saved my hide a number of times.

I think it looks good. Did you take them off to do them, or mask and paint on the truck? I've thought about doing the same on mine. It will be interesting to see how durable it is sine they are prone to road debris.

Did you color match the fender flares? If so, please share the details...

Hey Mike, I got a set of the Eagle Eye Lights and they have the boxes which I thought would have been some type of correction for the system, but I'm getting a normal blink for the first few seconds then a hyper blink and the message on the DIC with the signal error, so what type of load resistor are you referring to in the post?

The stock projector is more than 2.5 but less than 3. The ring diameter measures 2.85 inside and 3.23 outside. I know Spurlock took some pretty in-depth measurements of a borrowed stock projector in an effort to make some adapter plates for a RX350 Projector project. That may even be somewhere in this thread... I haven't seen anyone change the lens on the stock projector yet. The thought crossed my mind, but I wouldn't know where to start part wise, and how good the bowl performs since it is made for a halogen bulb. Good luck with your idea, and report your progress here.

You'd have a hard time finding a true 50w bulb from what I've read. It's my understanding that OEM bulbs like the Osram and Philips will handle 50w better than most aftermarket bulbs, however, the Morimoto bulbs have been rated pretty well even at 50w, but I haven't seen much info about the higher rating on them specifically. In my case I happen to have a set of 4500k and 5000k Morimoto's that I can use as back ups if the Osram's fail. I don't know if it was worth the money to buy the Osram bulbs yet because I have a few hours on them so far, and the experts say you need almost 100 hours to completely break them in for them to reach the full color and brightness. I liked the idea that between the 50w ballast and Osram CBI at 5500k the color would actually be more closer to 5000k.

Hey Mike, Glad to hear you got it all together! I've got the XB55 Ballast now and the lights are nice and bright. I figure I can live with sacrificing 20% life for 20% improvement in light output over a period of a few years (I hope...). If not, I've got enough spare ballast and bulbs to keep in the truck to not worry about it. Dave

I have to share my experience with y'all in hopes that you won't make the same mistake. I was on the Planet HID site reading about the Osram 66240 CBI bulbs and how everybody raves about them. And I thought I'd like to give them a try. I ordered them from TRS and arrived in a couple days since I'm local. Now here's where the dilemma starts... I put them in (FX-R Projectors) and went for a drive and the first thing I noticed was that there was a significant amount of light on the sides of the road but not much on the road itself. As a matter of fact, it seemed pretty dim. Pretty disappointing after spending $180 for a set of bulbs. Then I went and shined the lights on a wall and the cutoff was different. Like it had a flare to the right on each projector. I called TRS and talked to one of the guys there and he told me it sounded like the bulb wasn't seated properly, and that they do get brighter over time. He recommended driving with them on during the day just to put some hours on them. Anyway, I took the left side out, re-inserted it and it still had the same pattern and dim appearance. I even ordered some 50w ballast to compensate for it. I flew back into Atlanta yesterday afternoon and decided to stop by TRS since I was close by. They were nice enough to let me pull truck into there shop and troubleshoot the problem. It turns out the bulbs were put in upside down. Talk about embarrassing .... The bulb can fit into a FX-R projector either way but the notch should be at the 12 O'clock position. I'm happy to report that both lights are shinning the right way and I have a lot of light on the road now!! I did want to post this though to help anybody else avoid making the same mistake. It's easy to make when leaning over the fender.... Special thanks to the guys at TRS too.