I like the Halo Lift. I'm not going to say it's like riding on cloud but it's definitely improved. I'm sitting at 3" overall with the coilover set at 2", and two shims under that they provide to give it one more inch. Plus I have a Zone 1.5" Body Lift. I will say the ride with the Eibach kit was very stiff when I first installed it and toward the end it started becoming softer. Of course I'd already ordered my Halo Lift so at that point I was committed to it. The Eibach spring rate is 828# which is 10% higher than stock which puts the stock spring at around 745#. The Halo Lift is an Eibach spring also but the spring rate is only 700#. I'm not a suspension expert but I think when you start cranking down a coilover, you effectively change the spring rate or stored energy. The Pro Truck Lift spring is taller than the OEM spring and much beefier.
I have a set with about a thousand miles on them already assembled I'd sell the set for $450 + shipping. You'd have to pay the shipping and it's a 70LB box from Zip 30102. It would probably end up close to the order price and less than what it would cost to have them broken down and reassembled. The Eibach is on the left, and in the middle.
dcarl replied to pewterliftedz's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsWhat differential drop do you have?
dcarl replied to pewterliftedz's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsI'm interested to hear what you think about the ride. I installed the Pro Truck Lift System and found that it was too stiff. Drove it for a month or so and ended up taking it out and putting in Halo Lifts Boss Coilovers set at 3" with two bottom 1/4" spacers. The truck rides much nicer now. When I called Eibach they told me their spring is rated at 828# (10% higher than stock which puts it at 745#). The Boss Coilovers is an Eibach spring too but it's rated at 700#. I have no idea what some of the other coilovers are rated at. Your truck looks good! Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
I've watched several of the videos from Filthy Motorsports. The guy knows his stuff and does a very good job explaining things in his videos. He claims to take the time with each customer to fully understand their requirements and will build a suspension system around that. Most shops or on-line retailers will leave it up to you to click and pay and once you get it it's your problem. I went with Halo Lifts Boss Coilovers on my Sierra but it's a 1/2 ton. Alex took the time to answer all my questions and I read many reviews on other forums (Ford, Toyota, and GM) about their Customer Service and that to me was very important. Filthy Mortorsports seems to be that type of outfit as well. If there is one thing I learned, sometimes saving a few hundred dollars is not always the best deal. When I recently swapped out my Bilsteins for an Eibach kit the ride went from firm to stiff. Then I ended up spending another $1300 to replace that kit with the Halo Lifts Boss Coilovers and rear shocks and am a poor happy camper-) Check out this link for your 2500: http://www.filthymotorsports.com/King_OEM_2500_Shocks_p/king-25001-302.htm Good luck with your project.
I tried them and didn't like them. I had the Bilstein 5100's on my truck with at the stock setting a Zone 2" level kit for 3 1/2 years. I purchased the Eibach Pro Truck Lift System in December. It took about 6 weeks to get delivered. Finally got around to installing it a couple months ago and immediately noticed how much stiffer it was. I figured new springs might take a while to settle in so I gave it a month and they did settle down a little but still not to my liking. I mean it so stiff that the only way I could get a semi comfortable ride without feeling everything in the road with my LT285/60R20 tires was to air them down to between 35-38 psi. I called Eibach to inquire about the spring rate and they told me their springs are 828# (10% above stock which puts the stock spring somewhere around 745#). I ended up taking the Eibach kit out and going with Halo Lifts Boss Coilovers and the ride is much improved. I run my tires at 42 psi and it's comfortable. For comparison, the Boss Coilover spring is an Eibach rated at 700#. Another anomaly and I'd have to provide a picture later but when I compared the rear shocks from all three kits (Bilstein, Eibach, and Halo Lifts), the Eibach was the shortest shock of all. I would have at least expected it to be the same size as the Bilstein. I'd make you a decent deal on the set I took off with less than 1000 miles, but shipping would be expensive on a 65# box.
Run as fast as you can from Rancho.... Ok, so I’ll give a little background: I had the Bilstein 5100s with a Zone 2" level for 3 years. I recently changed out to an Eibach Pro Truck Lift 2.5" which was too stiff for my taste, so I ended up buying a Halo Lifts Boss Coilovers and run it at 3’’ with a Zone 1.5 body lift. The ride is exceptionally better. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I had mine done by a shop and never noticed any difference from inside. I'll have take a closer look now but from the outside, they look factory. Been on there for 4 years and not a bubble or a streak. They did a class job.
You have SLT Head Lights that have the LED DRL with the Halogen Projectors. Piss Poor factory lighting for a $50K truck. My 2015 SLT had the same. I did a HID upgrade right away by installing the Retrofit Source kit that runs around $180 or so. It was much better but still not to my liking after coming out of a Denali that I had done a HID projector retrofit on. So a few months later I did a complete projector retrofit with FX-R projectors and DS2 bulbs and could not be happier. I also replaced the fogs with Morimoto XB LED Fog Lamps. They both do a great job of lighting up the road and the sides. As far as the headlamps you have to be willing to bake them open to perform the projector upgrade. I used brackets from Fast Headlights. At the time I did it, I purchased an extra set of headlamps in case anything went wrong with the retrofit or I had any warranty issues while the truck was still in that period. Never had any issues so I sold my original set set of lights. Lights are cheaper now than they were four years ago... If you look in my gallery there are some pictures I posted long ago of the projector upgrade... Good luck
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You can go to Custom Offsets.com to get some info on offsets and backspacing. Factory 20x9.0 Wheel Offset = +27 mm - Back Space = 6.06" Inches (from http://performancelifts.com/wheel-back-space-information.html) Less Backspace and Negative Offset will bring the wheel out toward the fender. If you went with a Zero Offset you'd be pretty close to flush with the fender. I just installed 1" Bora Spacers on my stock wheels to make room for new UCAs and now my wheels are outside the fenders by just a touch. Did not have to trim the studs as the stock snow flake wheels have the deep pockets inside the hub area.
I ordered a set of Bora 1" adapters since I'm running the Rough Country UCAs. I inquired with a few different UCA manufactures about running the stock wheels and they all indicated I would need a small spacer but did not specify what size. I figured with the stock offset being +27, I knew I wanted to be around zero and one inch would basically get me there. I'm running LT285/60R20 with no problems and when these wear out will go LT295/60R20. One thing I'll mention too, with the Eibach kit and LT tires I felt everything in the road and had to air them down to around 38 psi to get a semi comfortable ride. With the Halo Boss kit I run the tires at 42 psi and they ride pretty nice now. I would imagine if there was a P-Metric tire it would be even better. I could save you some money on the Eibach kit but I bet shipping would be crazy expensive.
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