bcbz71

No experience with 2WD trucks, but on 4x4s with stock 18x8.5s (+24 offset) a 295 width tire is about all you can do unless you run spacers to push the rim away from the UCAs and swaybar. 295/65 (33x11.7) is about the largest you can run with any sort of lift 4" or less. Remember that most knuckle lifts won't allow you to run stock rims at all without a 1.5" spacer. Bracket lifts usually allow use of stock tires, but the higher you go with your truck, the wider you will want your tires and 295s might look silly on a 6" lift. I'm in a similar situation as I love my stock rims but it hamstrings me on lift options as I do too much hauling and towing to use spacers.

Well done. Not many people try that size tire with just a level. My buddy put them on his Tundra with just Bilsteins and they look so good. I've heard on stock rims that you're going to get a little swaybar and UCA rub without some negative offset (or spacers). Looks like 1/4" spacers does the trick. At full lock how much clearance do you have on the swaybars and UCAs. I'm guessing it's pretty tight.

The correct answer is to get narrower tires or rims with more negative offset. There is a sticky about spacers....BORLA seems to be the best, but run them at your own risk. They work great, until they don't.

The correct answer is to get narrower tires or rims with more negative offset. There is a sticky about spacers....BORLA seems to be the best, but run them at your own risk. They work great, until they don't.

Yes, everybody has that issue. Fix it before you blind someone and cause them to run off the road. It's easy...if it takes you more than 2 minutes, you had trouble finding the hood latch.

That is one awesome looking tire and rim combo. Never heard of those tires before but I like 'em. Put 'em on and let's see how they look on that truck! What's your rim offset? Also, what's their mounted size overall height and section width?

How bad is that rubbing the UCAs and swaybar?

So, 3" level on stock rims with 33x12.50r20s???

Not a fan of black rims or 20s, that looks good. I like the clean no-side step look. I need amps!

You need to push your rim out with more offset in an aftermarket rim or install wheel spacers. Your stockers are probably +24mm and you need about +18mm to 0 offset to clear the swaybar. The problem is if you push the rim out too far with a negative offset rim, you will probably rub the liner or the fender. +18 is normally pretty safe, but some get away with +6 and also 0. Spacers are another option, but you probably only need about 1/2" of offset to stop the rub and anything less than a 1.5" spacer will force you to have to cut your lugs to have the rim fit properly on the spacer.

It doesn't look leveled, but it looks overstuffed. You'll like it with the level kit on it better, but it could possibly look saggy without the rear block. Blocks are cheap, so you can always add them later. Put level on it and get it aligned....bam...done.

Would love to see pictures of both these stock trucks with 33x12.50 tires with no rub. They are only 32.5" or so tall, so that's very believable, but that extra width usually spells trouble for UCAs, swaybars, and sometimes fenders, especially with no lift. Anxiously awaiting pictures.

Yes, both will fit, no problem.

Miles. My tractor is about 5000# and my trailer 2000#, so the most I have towed is ~7000#. Put it in tow mode and set the cruise to 65...get about 9mpg.

30,000 miles on truck now with level + rear blocks and air bags and no issues. I absolutely can't stand a truck that sags in the rear especially when the bed is empty (aka 2" levels).

I agree that the 2014-15s are the best looking of the new body style. I drive by the dealer daily and see all those Darth Vader front ends and am happy I needed a new truck in 2014 and not now.

If all other factors are equal, the larger rim (less rubber) will equate to a harsher ride. I've got the OEM 18" with non-LT 275/65r18 Nittos and the ride is the same as stock. I will say that there is plenty of room around this tire, even without a level, so I would recommend 285/65r18 if you want a beefier look.

I used the rear blocks that came with my 2.5 RCX kit (2" blocks, I believe). They were about 1/2" taller than the stock blocks if I recall correctly. For towing, you can't beat the Firestone RideRite air bags. Run them at 5psi for everyday driving, then pump them up to 100psi for max load. I find with about 35psi in the bags, I can tow my 5000# tractor with a level stance. Eliminates the azz sag and gives more steering control. I did not install the onboard compressor but I have an air compressor in my garage, so it's easy to air up. Try them and change your life!

That's a good look. Your rims look a lot like my stocker GMC Z71 rims. And please peel that auto dealer sticker off the tailgate...that's the only debadging needed!!

You always do it up right. If I had money to burn, that's what my truck would look like (except I like my factory grill).

That's a big tire you got in there.

They are going to rub UCA and Swaybar with stockers. Most likely something else when you bottom out the suspension on a bump. And look overstuffed. They will fit with a more offset rim if you go 4" supsension lift, or 2.5 Level stacked with 1.5 Body Lift.

BFG may not, but there are plenty of 295/70R18s out there which is very similar in size. And they will rub with just a level, just like his does with his 20s.

Ahhh, the infamous inner tire rub on stockers! Good pictorial. I was a bit worried about your jack and blocks, but then I saw your jack stand. For safety, I recommend two stands and let the truck's weight down on the stands before climbing under. I do that, then jack the jack up tight taking some of the weight off the stands...that way, if the jack fails, there is no "drop and pray". Since rims are hub centric and they no longer touch the hub due to the spacer, did you notice any vibration issues? 1/4" spacers are definitely the quick fix for OEM stocker rub with wide tires, but loss of contact with the rim to the hub concerns me.

Right wheel at full left crank and held by someone (or bungee the steering wheel to the seat) while you snap a picture from the top would be great. if you don't hold the steering wheel against the stop, the tire rotates back 1" or so. In the picture of the left wheel taken from the top, you can tell it's not at full lock. It doesn't have that much space between the UCA front curve with factory rims/tires.