nadrojcote

word of advice after debadging. Using fishing line or dental floss, doubled or trippled up to slowly saw back and forth to remove the letters. Then use your thumb to roll off the excess tape. That part is the worst. Then use goof off to remove left over residue. That was the easiest method for me.

They look like federals. My friend had them, great off road but incredibly loud and abnoxious.

Not sure. It is a fairly thick paint as it has epoxy in it. As long as its sprayed evenly I can't see it affecting it too much.

that's a tough one man, not sure what you should do. You could undercoat it. Or else try to scrape all that stuff off. Not sure how much work that entails.

mine was completely gone, the entire frame was orange with surface rust.

I have these, I called and asked for the parts specifically for a 2014+ with factory aluminum suspension and mine fit, there was a tiny bit of rubbing in the same place you are showing, but I grinded it down a tad and after the alignment to fix toe in it doesn't touch. I'm using them with rancho quick lifts to correct the ball joint angles. I've also installed 1" longer sway bar linkage since then to get my sway bar back to stock angles. Probably didn't change anything in reality, but I wanted some nice poly bushings.

Called them and they have part numbers for 2014+ and they're different part numbers if you have aluminum control arms. $250 + tax & shipping. They said they're not listed on their site.

I have essentially the same tire size, but mine are 305/45r22 and they rubbed on the sway bar with rancho quicklifts that give about 2.25" lift. Smaller rims like 20's and 18s are known to rub on the upper control arms as well. I replaced my upper control arms with skinnier rough country control arms so I can't comment on if I would I would have rubbed or not. I got around the rubbing by installing some 1/4" spacers, I got 4 of them for around $20 on eBay. It was the only size that left some hub for the rim to sit on. The hub only sticks out 1/2" so 1/2" spacer was out of the question for me. I now clear the sway bar but can make it rub a bit while turning at full lock. Nothing to worry about really. I was also rubbing the fender liner so I zip tied it back and out of the way.

Silverado cabs level out with the fenders. Sierras don't. Mine needs to be 1.5 higher in the rear for the cab to be level.

I soldered blue LEDs in the guages on my tacoma and it turned out nice. I just don't know how well it well it will match the red infotainment and dic theme.

I wonder what smd's the stock board uses, I wouldn't be afraid to solder some new lights in them to make them brighter. Maybe some cree xb-d's. I also wouldnt mind changing my interior guage cluster and dash lights to be blue like fords guages.

I wasnt able to find them does someone have a link?

lol so you're in the $16 of the $270 invoice business, I say you need to get yourself a garage and a screw driver and start making $125/hr!

Just reassured me that extended warranties are a waste of money. Its easy to do yourself and takes less than an hour.

I think I'll get a clear bra as well, I had my bumper painted and its chipping too. Not as bad as the factory painted bumpers chip, but I would still rather not worry about it. Also my truck has blackish 22's.

I'm adding a one inch block in the rear, giving me about 1.5" of rake. That should make my cab level.