EIKON

That’s been a common complaint or observation on the 2020. The brake functions the same as the 17-19. But the transmission functions differently. Also keep in mind the previous years in the L5P would be a lot more noticeable due to the spread in the gear ratios. The 10 speed has to drop several gears in order for it to be as noticeable. I haven’t had any issue with it doing it’s job and I’ve towed loads at max gvwr. It just isn't as pronounced as previous generations. It’s main function is for downhill speed control and it does a very good job of that, for me. YMMV.

I’m on my mobile and can’t see your signature. I’m assuming this is for a 6.6 gas truck. I would do the 3” Also, I would suggest using a muffler that isn’t a chambered design. Magnaflow and MBRP would bee good choices. Chambered mufflers aren’t going to flow as well and often times cause drone on these engines.

Well here’s the thing, GM can tell when an ecm has been swapped. Basically no matter which route you go, if you have a catastrophic failure and GM feels it’s worth spending a few bucks digging, pretty much all power adding devices are subject to being found. While certain devices do not leave a “fingerprint” in the ecm. There are various ways GM can piece together that more torque was produced by the engine than it can produce from the factory. Rumor has it that there is an invisible tuning option. But it’s not public ally available. Those guys are pretty tight lipped.

Your current available option are a few brands of inline tuners (none of which I would offer to my clientele at this time). There are also several companies currently offering direct ecm tuning. I’ll touch on that shortly. Banks Derringer and Edge Pulsar in-line modules that are currently in beta testing. Both are viable options for those not wanting to go to direct ecm tuning. The only direct/complete ecm tuning options commercially available at this time are companies using HPTuners software. In order to proceed this route, the factory ecm must be replaced with an ecm modified by HPTuners to allow software changes. This incurs a significant cost but allows more significant changes than an inline module will allow. Once the factory ecm is replaced, the modified ecm can be “tuned” by whichever tuning company you choose.

These are 20x9 +12. I had tried to stay with a 20x9 +18. I just had a hard time finding a wheel that fit my tastes. I wasn’t looking for a black or a chrome wheel. So the choices start getting limited.

Thank you. The wheels are some inexpensive wheels from Vision. Vision Turbine

My truck was only 1 and 1/4” higher in the rear than the front, stock. I kept mine pretty simple, I dialed in an inch on the front. That took out most of the rake. But didn’t put it dead level. I like my tread blocks flush with the fender and not sticking beyond. I went with a 20x9 +12 wheel and a 295/65/20 tire. That tire measures 35.3” tall. Which puts it right in between a 35 and 37. Tires labeled 35, typically measure in mid 34” range and tires labeled 37 typically measure in mid 36” range. I have zero rub. Off road at full lock, I would expect some fender liner rub. But have not encountered it yet.

The dealer is only allowed to put in calibrations gym has approved for your VIN number. If you want to add e-85 ability, you’ll have to do it aftermarket.

Physically that’s about it. But you have to add the ability in the tune.

While I didn’t illustrate it in my previous post, I had meant to point our that if you tune it on e-85 or with an ethanol sensor then you will make even more power. However unless you live in an area that heavily discounts ethanol fuel, it will have a higher cost per mile to run. I prefer to optimize the tuning for whatever fuel I have available. If all all you have is low octane fuel, then so be it. Tune it the best that you can for it. If you have mid grade, then tune for that. If you have premium, even better. For those fortunate enough to have e-85 and are willing to take the hit in the wallet to run it, then tune for that and get even more. Most of of the benefits of a good tune on relatively stock trucks, don’t have to do with peak power numbers. But you can very dramatically impact the feel of the truck, throttle tip in, throttle linear feel, torque application, transmission shift timing/patterns, etc...

Unfortunately not only is e-85 not available everywhere, but it also does not contain the same energy per gallon as regular gasoline. Because e-85 has a higher effective octane rating, the factory can take advantage of a more aggressive timing curve and higher overall timing. But, because of the lowwr overall energy volume per gallon, you must use more e-85 fuel to operate the engine. So e85 is cheaper per gallon however it takes more fuel to operate the engine. I have e-85 available to me. However unless the engine is turbocharged or supercharged where I need the additional octane for tuning purposes, I run my trucks on normal e-10 gasoline. The math for me works out. It’s cheaper to run e-10. When i I tune a truck, I tune it three times essentially. Regular (87 octane), premium (91/93 octane), and e-85. If the the truck doesn’t have an ethanol sensor then I add one. You’d be surprised how often your e85 is actually e60-65.

My 2015 made it 500 hard miles before I put on the kooks longtubes and a full exhaust. Added a clean air separator, modded the air intake, tuned out the AFM, and added an alchohol sensor. Ran it that way until 50k before I did the cam, converter, and swapped out the AFM lifters for LS7 style. The AFM lifters looked better than any set of AFMs that I have pulled out of 10-15k engines that had active AFM. Just turning the system off helps a bunch in my opinion. Some guys will argue otherwise. Ive seen them fail on other trucks even turned off. Not saying otherwise. But I believe turning them off early really helps.

That’s part of GM meeting CAFE at the time of dosing. You up can always yank the heads and go back to real lifters ;) Unfortunately at that time you are your own warranty station.

Unfortunately while it is designed to save fuel, it adds wear to items.

This will explain a bit. http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/what-are-the-different-types-of-exhaust-tips In addition to this, I will add that if the outside diameter of both tips are the same ex:3" inlet with a 4" outside diameter, then the single wall will change the exhaust note slightly as you have added a small echo chamber that is slightly larger ID than the tailpipe previous The double wall will typically maintain a similar ID as the OD the tailpipe, and will merely extend the tailpipe and add an appearance factor to the vehicle without changing the exhaust note in any noticeable fashion. I typically install my exhaust, then listen to it and decide if I want the same exhaust note or if I want to change it. If I like it the way it is, then I use a double wall that maintains the tailpipe diameter throughout it's length. (I do prefer the look as well). If I want to change the exhaust note then I will use another tip, typically a single wall. I will use different diameters and lengths to accomplish the tone that I am searching for. There are double wall tips that have a larger ID than the OD of the tailpipe, however that end up have a significantly larger OD than a comparable single wall tip and to me, look out of proportion. The information that I've stated is based on using a slip fit exhaust tip and not a weld on. That can change some of the references to ID and OD depending on manufacturer.

That was mostly likely one with the "Custom Sport" Package. Pretty reasonable actually. Black painted bumpers, painted grill surround and headlight surrounds, 20" wheel upgrade, different badging and some misc things. $1300. Once you figure the cost of doing the 18" to 20" wheel upgrade as a separate option, that is a great package.

Just wrapped up my exhaust. Truck is a 2015 RCSB 5.3 Kooks 1 7/8" Kooks 3 to 3 1/2" catless y-pipe for a 6.2 MBRP 3 1/2" 6.2 cat back modified to fit a RCSB Here is a vid of a cold start. I will get a vid of a warm start and warm idle. Once the engine warms up the timing changes and makes a very noticeable difference. Gets much quieter and deeper. The mic on my phone cannot pic up the full definition of the exhaust note. http://vid81.photobu...663EF8316D5.mp4

If you set your air to head and feet, then you will get a split and the backseat will get air from under the front seats.

Just wrapped up my exhaust. Truck is a 2015 RCSB 5.3 Kooks 1 7/8" Kooks 3 to 3 1/2" catless y-pipe for a 6.2 MBRP 3 1/2" 6.2 cat back modified to fit a RCSB Here is a vid of a cold start. I will get a vid of a warm start and warm idle. Once the engine warms up the timing changes and makes a very noticeable difference. Gets much quieter and deeper. The mic on my phone cannot pic up the full definition of the exhaust note. http://vid81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/Garret83/My%20Trucks/2015%20RCSB%20Silverado/2F33A6A9-D4E0-4B38-AB1E-9663EF8316D5.mp4

Hey guys, I'm looking to experiment with some exhaust ideas. Does anybody around the DFW area have a stock 6.2 exhaust that they have pulled off and are looking to get out of the garage? Thanks, Wes Any cab/bed configuration works.