My gas mileage didn't really change a whole lot, my city mileage dropped from 14 to 12.5 MPG's, I still get 18-19 MPG on the highway, things to remember - KO2's are huge frickin bricks haha they weight a ton, but they are wonderful off road (where I spend a lot of my time these days) and they are great on the street, they ride really nice for being a snow rated A/T. I also have a tuner on my truck and it is a diesel, so that does make a big difference when compared to a gasser.
Multiple tire places did refuse to mount 285/75R16 tires on the factory wheels, but I wanted black wheels anyways so it was a good excuse to upgrade. I also intend on removing the skull and crossbones logo from the wheels, not really my style Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The noise came back after upgrading from 245R16's to 285R16's, but only under hard acceleration while cresting a slope turning left with nearly full throttle (very specific, right?) and isolated it to the sway bar on the passenger side, hence the reason the new sway bar end-links and bushings solved it. I already have new bushings for the sway bar and will see if that solves it. Otherwise may upgrade to the cognito sway-bar anyways. just a heads-up for anybody else interested. anyways, just a heads up to anyone with a similar issue.
Thanks! The previous owner did quite a bit of trimming already, I assume he had a larger lift and took it off once it got traded in though. And thank you! I was going to remove the chrome paneling along the bottom when I got it, but it's already stopped enough door dings that I think it's earned its place haha, I love this truck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i've got this same thing, at about 55 MPH it starts vibrating and humming, and it'll get louder if i go faster and quieter if I slow down, but if i just barely touch the gas pedal it goes away, I haven't pin-pointed it yet, but i noticed if i grab the front driveshaft and twist it back and forth quickly i get a small thud, but i don't think thats abnormal either.
Hantke replied to 2018GMC's topic in 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line PickupsAround my parts people go out of their way to snatch those up, a lot of dirt track guys run them aswell, they can be built up pretty and be pretty sweet engines, I'd 100% say rebuild and tune up that 400 any day
Hantke replied to 2018GMC's topic in 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line Pickupswell if you don't want to rebuild the 400 give it to me for my '66! haha, but i'd rebuild that 400, those are beasts!
Hantke replied to Gorehamj's topic in The Newsroomusually gas vehicles go longer on oil changes, with the new EGR requirements you are re-introducing soot and crap from your exhaust into a clean system which causes issues (hence all the guys getting EGR deletes and DEF deletes), on the other hand, if properly maintained they won't die on you. My dad bought his truck new and has roughly 280K on it, had a water-pump leave him on the side of the road once (he knew it was going bad and was hoping he could make one more trip before replacing it, didn't quite make it home). both the maintenance cost and original purchase price WILL be higher than a gas vehicle, but these are made to be work trucks, towing regularly, hauling, etc. so they have a place, and as the average persons DD, thats not where they fit in (full size trucks that is). What I have yet to comprehend is whether the diesel canyon / colorado are meant to be the average persons DD type truck or a mini work truck.
So after an absurd amount of research, I've decided to go with Cooper ST MAXX tires (thanks for all the info from everybody again), but I've heard a lot of different info, one shop told me I can run 285/75R16's with no issue, another said it will rub a lot, I've got a sierra 2500HD with a 2"-3" leveling kit (previous owner did the install). I've read everything from "they'll fit stock with a little trimming" to "you ned a 4" leveling kit or lift", any opinions from you guys? or recommended sizes? currently running the stock (dealer installed) 245's
What EGR black plate / finger stick do you guys use? I haven't decided if I'm going to go this route or not, I see great benefits from it though, and I haven't yet decided that an entire delete kit would be worth-while (perhaps in the future? but not now). Thanks in advanced!
sorry, no idea on this. but you can emaill [email protected] to see how the process works. After completely replacing and upgrading my sway-bar end links (Duralast SL93 link + Energy Suspension 9.8105 performance sway bar end link bushing set) my problem appears to be solved, I attempted to make it "pop" going around multiple corners to no avail, and found an empty straight away near my house, gave it a whirl, and to my surprise, not a single pop, i got a small thud during take-off and did a pretty solid burn out but no odd sounds came of it. Perhaps its because it rained a little this morning and the pavement is still a little wet, but I've had it pop on wet roads before. The steering is a dream now aswell, seems to be a little tighter. The old bushings were toast, there was a pretty good 45 degree section worn off entirely on both sides.
I have sway bar bushings coming in tomorrow, and after a lot of issues at the parts stores, I bought new sway bar end links and a set of upgraded bushings for them, a surprisingly time consuming task! each parts stores "OEM Replacement" was entirely different, but I finally called the dealer, and matched NAPA and Autozone's parts to the dealer part by part number instead of application, and upgraded to Energy Suspension performance sway bar end link set, and I totaled a whole new set of links and bushings with lifetime warranties for under $20. O'reilly's seems to be the only place with the correct (36.2 MM) sway bar bushings, So i ordered the MOOG set for $22 and I will be picking them up tomorrow morning some time. will order new torsion bar mounts with my next paycheck and get those replaced next, I think this combination should either fix, or significantly narrow down my possibilities, and I'm using this as an opportunity to replace parts with better-than-OEM parts.
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