Dixon700

There's a such thing as a quiet 6.0? All the ones I've heard including my own make a plethora of noises. ??

All of the 6.0's I've seen sounds like they have a little lifter tick, but mine has 219k miles and it sounds the same as the 6.0 I've seen with 40k miles making the same noise. ??

You made a broad statement and I made a broad rebuttal. Smaller cube forced induction engines are coming a long way and run quite well. The 1.4l in my '17 Trax makes about as much power as 70-80's 350ci (5.7l). It has 140hp 140tq and it's a bit of a dinosaur as far as technology. Early 90's is about the last of n/a diesels also. Diesels run very poorly without forced induction. Look at the 350ci diesel Chevy had in the 70's.

I'll just leave this here...... Hardest working pickup engine out there.

I have auto enginutity, but I don't have the enhanced gm package, I have the enhanced package for my dodge. I never wasted the extra money on having the gm enhanced also because I only had my 02 before and it runs ok with 220k mi. Heck a subscription to all data would probably cost more than $85 I paid to Johnson motors to diagnose my p0521.

I had the dealer diagnose it. I paid them $85 for that so they better of properly diagnosed it. I don't have access to gm manuals or all data program, or anything like that to get diagrams and pinout to test the harness or sensor. I could of ohmed the sensor out, but i don't know which pins or the range it should fall in and what resistance should be at the different pressures.

Replaced the sender and both filters after. Losing it all out and so far so good. The dealer wanted $370 to replace the sender and filter... All of it was like 40min... ???.

Good video, I'm just not sure how much junk mine will have in there since it only has 49k mi. I'm ordering new sender and oil filters, so I'll change filter and blow it out when I'm replacing the sender.

Warranty ran out this month... This month was 5 years, so I guess start with a new sender?

As of yesterday my '13 with 49k miles has this issue, it's also started using a lot of oil. It used to use about a qt in 5k miles. Now it's used almost a gallon in 3,200 miles. I'm original owner. So should my power train warranty cover any issue my engine is having right now? My oil psi has never dropped below 25psi.

I run Mobil 1 extended performance 5w-30 in all of the GMC vehicles except my 02. I run Mobil 1 high mileage 10w-30 in it with its 219k mi on it. My uncle's '13 Silverado, the '14 sonic before the '17 Trax and when the free oil changes is up with the Trax it will also get the Mobil 1. I prefer AC Delco filters on GM vehicles also. Haven't messed with any GM direct injected motors yet.

Put the truck through its paces with a couple loads this size. Tranny nor coolant got over 200° so I'll call it a successful repair.

Installing a bigger Hayden bar and plate tranny cooler and a carquest severe duty fan clutch tomorrow. Then I'll be putting it to work to see if it runs cooler.

Fan would spin about half a turn just trying to give it a quick spin. Got it up to about 200° it's normal operating temp. Grabbed a red rag and I could slow down the fan pretty good, but couldn't stop it. Shut it down and it spun like when cold so u ordered a new severe duty clutch.

I should mention there is no play in the fan, I seen no leaks or streaks off of the clutch when I had the shroud out to clean my radiator, and there is some resistance when the intended the fan. Should there only be a certain amount of turns and then it locks up? Also it may not be up to snuff. When I was climbingthat second hill my transmission was kicked way down and rpms were almost 5k when it got hot and I couldn't hear the fan, just the engine, and my exhaust is stock. So if there's any tests I can do let me know.

What's the best way to do this? Most of the fan clutches I work on are pneumatic...

Bringing an old thread back to life because I have the same issue with my '02 2500hd with the 6.0 and 4.10 gears. I just went and bought a trailer that weighs 5k lbs And had to tow it home out if Carlisle, which is tons of steep winding hills with 10mph corners. Anyways the truck has never even got warm empty. Temp stays around 190° and stayed there. First but hill I really had to get into it after the first corner because there was cars behind me wanting to go the 45mph speed limit after the corner, speed was slowly coming up and I got to the 45mph speed limit and check all the gauges and see check trans temp is up around 230° or so, and coolant temperature just about pegged. Whipped into the first place I found I could fit and let it cool down. System was holding good psi and didn't boil out the overflow until I bled the psi. Limped my way home watching temps and not letting trans or coolant get over 230°. I've read that the tiny trans cooler isn't efficient enough and am going to get one rated for 30k gvw rV's. I had removed about 2 gals of coolant and replaced with new 50/50 extended life coolant. Also added some of the coolant additive that's supposed to help run cooler. I also blew out the radiator, condenser, and coolers with compressed air then ran water through until it was clear. Tons of dirt, but would that of been enough to make it run hot with only 5k lbs behind it? As far as I know thermostat, water pump, and fan clutch are stock. Thermostat seems to work fine, and I'd imagine water pumpworks because it only got hot towing. Fan also seemed to work, would pull my shirt up against the cooler with the grill off. So just flush it out and think it was just lack of airflow? Because it never even got warm on the interstate.

I'm guessing with the ifs even the lower end kits are expensive?

Are there any companies like carli or thuren that build high end kits for chevys? Coming from a dodge and there isn't a lot of competition for carli or thuren components.