winks79

What really helped on my truck was doing the cargo light/tailgate light on while in reverse mod. Very simple to do. Here is the link on this site. I used the diodes but soldered wire to the diodes and used taps on the trucks wiring for a better connection than shown in the thread. I was surprised at how much it really helps to see with the camera at night.

Agree, they did make changes after 2019 to them, but the main problem is not the tires, it is the crappy Rancho shocks if you have the off road package. I installed the Bilstein 5100's all the way around on my 2019 Sierra, and it is like driving a different truck. Could not believe the difference. Firmer ride, in a good way, and handles all roads so much better. No more bouncing all over the place over speed bumps or uneven pavement. This thing stays planted now. Money well spent for me. Should have come with these from factory IMO. Bilstein's were standard equipment on the 90's GM Z71's.

This is the one I used and it covers everything. Got it off Amazon for around $25. They have them for the 2019 and up Silverado and Sierra with or without multipro tailgate. I have the multipro with a hard tri-fold from Gator and both together do a really good job. It will come with instructions on how to install also. Very easy.

1/2 tons do not have any.

They have been doing the crossover pipe that way for the last 20 years. For clearance crossing over the tranny pan. No restriction issue whatsoever.

For me personally the Denali is not worth the extra 10k. The rest is just worthless gadgets to me. Yes the adaptive ride is nice, but the interior differences are not that big at all, and especially not 10k of a difference, sorry.

Yes the drain for the evaporator is located pretty much above the bell housing on the tranny. That is why it leaks down and follows the cross member and also drips onto the exhaust. It is designed that way. They could have routed it to a different location and it would not do this. I know it is like this on 19' models, not sure if they have changed it on the newer models. Not really a big deal to me.

The dealer will not just replace the rear window just because you ask them to. They have to follow GM's orders which are to use the sealant. Some have replaced the slider with a non slider, but they have paid for it out of pocket. As I stated earlier, if the tech knows what they are doing it only takes one trip to the dealer for them to lay a bead of sealant across the top of the rear glass. My dealer's service dept/tech had my truck ready the day I dropped it off. He said he removed rear cab spoiler to access top of rear glass, laid the sealant, and reinstalled spoiler. Left it to dry, and I picked it up that afternoon. Takes about a 24 hours for it to fully cure. My tech said he has done so many that he can not count them, but has not had one to come back for a leak that he has sealed. I told him about how many folks on this forum has had problems with their service departments and having to return multiple times for the leak. He said he can not understand why, because the sealant is a good fix and has worked well for them. They have not replaced any rear glass sliders at all, just sealed them.

Opening and closing the slider has nothing to do with the leak. The slider itself is not leaking, but the plastic frame that is sandwiched between the cab and the glass is cracking causing the leaks. The only way to not have a leaking rear glass is to buy a truck without the slider as the solid rear glass does not have the plastic frame. Mine was leaking when I bought it. It had be on the lot for about 6 months. Had 2 miles on it when I bought it. The plastic just gets cracks in it over time. Has nothing to do without how it is driven. Mine leaked on both sides. I agree that this should not be happening, but I still do not care for the other makes of full size trucks. My dealer/tech cured the problem the first time with the sealant, and have not had an issue since, and that was June of 2019. Some on here say that they still had a leak after it was sealed. I say that the dealer/tech is the issue with that. If you know how to lay a good bead of sealant it will cure the problem. I will say I have been more disappointed with the issues I've had with this truck than any I have owned. It has had the rear glass leak, a bad battery, the tranny fluid issue, 6 recalls, and just last week had to have the evaporator replaced on the a/c because it was leaking. I have owned over 40 GM vehicles over the years, and have never had one to have this many issues ever, much less in the first year of ownership. Never had an evaporator to leak on any vehicle, but this one did. Still like the truck though, and will buy another one. Will wait and see what the 22' models are all about.

Yep. Happened with the last 3 new vehicles I've bought, including this one. All had a dead cell in the battery. If it were an older vehicle it would have started, but as stated above, with all the electronics on them today, if voltage is a little off, forget it. Mine lit the dash up like a Christmas Tree, every light that could come on came on. The ECM in these things are very sensitive to battery voltage.

Mine did the same when I first got it. I swapped sides with the headrests and spread the legs also. Been fine for over a year until last week. Noticed rattle on the left rear headrest, took it out and spread the legs again and it stopped.

Mine goes in for the same issue Friday. Hoping for same good results as you had. I've owned around 40 vehicles in my life and this is the first time I've ever had an evaporator leak, but hey what are you going to do. The dealer/tech that works on mine has always done an awesome job. I too am a little OCD about stuff, and my heart sank a little when he told me the evaporator was leaking. I knew what had to be done to get to it. Was hoping it was the condenser, which is a much easier fix. Tech told me it would probably be about a 13-15 hour job total and that GM only pays 11 hours warranty work for it.

Hopefully that fixed it for you. I had the same thing to happen to my 19' Sierra and it was a bad cell in the battery as previously posted. Would start fine sometimes, but other times it would drag or not even start at all. This happened without any warning at all. These trucks have so much computer operation in them now, that the battery charge can cause issues that it would not have caused in older vehicles. Even though the battery would start the truck the voltage was so low that it threw every code just like yours and made it virtually useless. Dealer installed new battery and cleared the codes, been running great ever since. This happened within the first 5k miles on the truck. Got 20k on it now, and other than the rear window leak, is the only issue I've had with truck.

Not a KO2 fan either. Much better tires out there for the money over BFG's. I too will be running Cooper's when I need them. Have run them on my trucks in the past. Just don't know if I will run the AT3 or the Zeon LTZ that I have had really good luck with in the past.

They didn't have to replicate anything. I just told them the issues I was having and they told me about the TSB on the fluid, and that they would take care of it, and they did. They know I'm not going to bring my truck in to have it worked on for no reason. Again, dealership service dept and techs are the issue most of the time when it comes to customers being happy with their vehicle. All vehicle manufacturers have issues, and it makes it worse when service dept. do not and will not fix the issue the first time.