UWSkier

How much taller is the ZR2 than the standard trucks? I know it has bigger tires. Is the suspension any taller?

Did Stevie Wonder do that upholstery job? Yikes! Lots of waves and ripples in that application. Those look like the seats from the AT4 and Denali.

No truck campers in that thread but a few of us with this combo have chimed in there. I've really grown to love my truck.

How hard is it to get to the wiring on your trailer? I wired in a diode on my black 12v power feed line where it comes into the RV so that power can only flow from the truck TO the RV but not in reverse. After doing that, I read 0v on the 12v pin of the trailer when it's sitting disconnected from the truck. It shouldn't take more than 20 mins if you have decent access to the wiring.

The 6.6L gas and 10 speed is nice. Will be a great truck for your use case! I love my 2024 for everything except pulling my travel trailer, which has the aerodynamics of an aircraft carrier. For that, it's OK, not great, but does the job well. For towing a boat, dump trailer occasionally, it's excellent. Smooth, linear power that gets stronger the more miles it gets on it. When I first picked it up, it felt like a pooch. I was coming from a 5.3L with 8 speed which isn't known as a burner. But after 6000 miles, this feels every bit as snappy. I'm happy with my truck. Just wish it wasn't so big.

Anyone else have where you don't press the button hard enough and the tailgate won't release, but the fuel pump primes for some reason?

Same here. New module arrives at dealer Monday and should get it installed next week sometime.

I don't mind the factory exhaust note one bit, but I do hate where they put the outlet on these trucks. Even with a stainless heat shield on my Rock Tamers, they still smell like melting rubber after each use. That never happened on my 2016 with the exhaust exiting more towards the side.

Aah yes, the Nintendo fix technique. Good work!

2024s only.

This is about what I am seeing in my 2024 LTZ with 7000 miles. I got 19 MPG driving at 60 MPH with a tailwind once so far, but most everything else jives with what you've posted. Comparing to my 2016 Denali half ton 4wd with 5.3L, I get about 2 MPG worse in everyday driving, but about 1 MPG better towing in pretty much all conditions.

Known issue. GM has a fix. Ask your service advisor to check GM bulletin 23-NA-149

Is that the same module above the spare tire that controls the trailer lights as well?

That's definitely my issue too. I never plugged anything in upside down, but have the issue where I'm getting voltage on the running light pin on the truck even with the relay and fuse for that circuit removed. I go in for this NEXT week so hoping the dealer can turn this around quickly without having to keep my truck.

Unless they've changed it, Torque should be one time fee. I paid for the full version 5 years ago and haven't paid anything since. I know what you mean about the phone though. You'd need a separate phone, at which point, you may as well just use something dedicated.

On the last item, you can solve that with a trailer dummy plug. Something I'm considering making up for this same reason. That camera view is nice. On the gauges, have you checked out the Torque app? A Bluetooth OBDII dongle is like 15 bucks and you might be able to see much of this information on there.

That's what I would have gone with if available too. Looks good.

I got the text alert this morning. I had a frozen Android app a few weeks ago. I went into the app settings and cleared the data and cache and it's working again. Had to re-login from scratch.

Likely used a 7 way adapter to supply a constant 12v instead of PWM to the running lights. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Furrion/FR87PR.html

But if the VIN is 2500, shouldn't you keep the 2500 badge? It'd be a sleeper. Like putting an Omni topsheet on a Works 01 Good to see another slalom nut here!

I will. And as it turns out, I have the same problem with no 12v on the 12v prong on my setup either. Upon further examination, I have a blown 30a fuse on the trailer 12v circuit. @Ranger473 do you happen to know if the previous owner of your truck towed a camper? If so, did he use a Furrion pigtail adapter to make his backup cameras work? That's the only thing I have used on my truck that I figure could have caused an issue. I am rewiring the trailer so I won't need the pigtail anymore. But even if I swap a 30a fuse from another spot onto my 12v, I still have constant power to the running lights... So it, in my case, is two separate issues perhaps.

Might be a better idea to put in a diode instead of a disconnect. That way power can flow from the truck to the trailer but not back the other way. It will help keep your 12v system on the trailer charged and working if you forget to turn on your solar. Not sure what, if any, 12v loads you have when rolling down the road, but my trailer has a 12v fridge, so we like to keep our house battery in tip top shape.

I have this exact same issue with my 2024. The running lights on the trailer on from the second I plug into the truck to the second I disconnect, and I get the warning about trailer lamps being inoperative. My truck goes in for this issue in a couple weeks. Service advisor believes the BCM just needs a reset. We'll see.

I've seen that message pop up sporadically on my trailer too both with and without the generator running. I'm not certain it's related to the diode. Unless you're saying you get that message every time.

2024s have a few little electrical gremlins but they're mostly working through those. The improved interior and the 10 speed behind the gasser are worth getting a 24 over a 23 IMO. 23s are getting a bit harder to find but they certainly have better financing. I got a few grand off MSRP buying from a dealer in Tucson. The Phoenix area dealers near me wouldn't move or didn't have inventory when I was shopping in June. Good luck!