15BlueSilverado

Decided to change the spark plugs, coils and wires on my truck this weekend, figured it wouldn't be that bad, even considering the infamous and hard to get to #8 plug. Tried tackling it from overhead and it was a PITA, so finally removed the inner fender well covers and it was much easier. Changed all the plugs, finally managed to change all the spark plug wires and lastly the coils, which by far were the easiest of the bunch. First start up of the truck and it all seemed fine but then came the rough idle and check engine light. Put my code reader on it and immediately got the P0358 code, Ignition coil H Primary/Secondary circuit malfunction. After googling it, found out its the #8 cylinder, so I double checked the coil, plug and sparkplug wire and made sure they were all plugged in correctly, which they were. Cleared the code, started the truck again and it popped back up on the reader. Doesn't seem to go away. The plug from the ignition coil harness looks to be fine, no cracks and the pins all seem to be seated properly. Troubleshooting steps performed: swapped coil, swapped sparkplug wire and replaced spark plug with another new one, same results. Anyone else have a similar issue and if so, what was done to remedy or fix it? Any info and/or tips are greatly appreciated, TIA.

Damn! And here I thought $2.88 was still high...

Those are some of the things that concerned me also. I had read about the slow startup and bluetooth connection being spotty at times but overall, the reviews have all been pretty good. Does it have Android Auto or is it just bluetooth connection to the phone?

Looks good, how does it function overall though? I've read both good and bad things about that unit and have been thinking about getting one myself but just not sure.

Replaced my Accelerator Pedal Position sensor this past weekend. Truck showed the Decreased engine power message and felt like I let off the pedal, which I didn't, while I was on the freeway. I managed to exit safely and pull into a parking lot where I started googling the issue. Found where it said to turn off the truck and let it sit for about 30 seconds then turn back on and it should clear the message, it did and I was able to drive to local shop. They put the reader on it and it showed an error code of P2122. They cleared it but after driving a while it came back on so I bought a new one and replaced it, reset the code with my reader and it hasn't came back on yet. It only set me back $120 at AZ for the part and it has lifetime warranty. Next up, replace the spark plugs and wires...

Yes, I have my truck serviced at the dealership where I bought it. In fact, I just had the 75k maintenance done last month and all was good.

Paid off my truck last month only to have the transmission give me problems last week at 75k miles, go figure. End result, TC was going out and the shavings were getting sucked into the trans oil pump causing that to fail also. Replaced the TC with a Precision brand and also the trans oil pump, had everything else cleaned and resurfaced real good and $4500 later, truck drives like new again. On a side note, I had no idea Geico offered mechanical breakdown coverage which covers transmissions so... I only had to pay $250 and they covered the rest.

Mine was doing almost the same thing last week with only 75k miles on it. I started noticing a slight whine every now and then when it went from like 3rd to 4th gear or even 5th, didn't think nothing of it cause I had read online that "that was normal for this transmission". Long story short and almost $4500 later, I can honestly say, IT'S NOT NORMAL. I had metal shavings all in the trans oil pan and was told the torque converter was failing and the shavings got sucked into the trans oil pump. Had the trans rebuilt using a Precision torque converter, replaced the trans oil pump and resurfaced everything at a local shop. I was lucky enough to have mechanical breakdown coverage through my insurance that paid it all for me, minus my $250 deductible. Now it drives like new again.

Note to self... don't buy cheap China crap online!! Damn thing broke on the inside while I was carrying a load and couldn't open the tailgate. Had to pull the the panel off to get to the backside and put the old one back on. :(

Bought a smoothed out tailgate handle and color matched it myself today, doesn't look too bad for a dirty truck. Lol

No, I thought about getting that bracket kit but the ones that came with the light bar were perfect and fit just right. Only think I had to do was use longer bolts to go through the stock bar on the truck. That's why I went with the 32" instead of the 20" light bar. It lined up just right in the lower part of the grill too. As for the switches, I bought the factory piece that comes with the trailer brake because it was already smooth. Once you remove the trailer brake piece from the back, you just have to cut out for the two switches which isn't much and they fit just right.

I'm currently running Falken Wildpeak AT3s 305/55/20 which measure out to 33" and the only rubbing I have is at full turn. Other than that, no issues and they ride smooth, no road noise.

Installed some lights under the hood just in case. Put a hood pin switch so they come on when the hood opens. And the horn in the pic is not hooked up, didn't like the sound of it.

Installed a 32" LED light bar behind the grille and wired up a couple switches. The rock light switch has nothing to power on yet though. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Ran into the same issue on mine, although I think it was my fault. I cleaned the MAF before reinstalling it but don't think I gave it enough time to dry so I ended up having to replace it. After that though, everything was fine and ran smooth.

Old thread, I know, but I used the grommet by the drivers door. Very easy to get to both inside and out.

Here's what I did in mine. Fuse box was purchased on Amazon, along with all connectors and accessories. This allows me to add 7 additional accessories, all of which run off their own relay. Accessory wires run to the connection blocks under the hood, which makes it easier, and the switch wires are all already pre-wired inside the cab. I ran those wires through a small grommet just under the door hinge on the driver side, very easy and I didn't have to cut the big rubber grommet on the firewall like some do. Everything is loomed nice and neat to keep it "factory" looking as much as possible.

The red ones are for thinner gauge wire and the blue ones are for a slightly thicker gauge, there are also yellow ones available that are for even thicker gauge wire. They have their pros and cons just like everything else out there, it just depends on whether or not you want to go back and replace them after a while since they'll be prone to the elements and the small metal inserts can/might rust causing connection issues.

I like it so far. I've noticed the buttons are a little harder, more firmer, but I like it and I prefer the looks of this one over others I've seen. And I've got two so if one messes up, I'm good. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751MDC1C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Did a few things today. First I replaced the factory horns with new ones, easier than I thought, didn't even have to pull off the front grille. Second, installed the Pedal Commander. And last, probably the easiest mod anyone can do, swapped out the remote. Got two for around $21 on Amazon. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I just bought one of the same but with different intentions in mind but I would assume something has to be programmed on the computer for it work. From what I've read, the LT models come with a lot of extra wiring for additional features that come stock on the LTZ models but are not enabled/turned on. I think the dealer has to either flash or reprogram the computer to enable/turn on those features. I got mine so I can add additional switches so I'll be cutting the trailer brake portion out, I just needed the flat part so the switches would sit flush.

Ouch, that sucks! It does look repairable though, a little bondo, a little paint, she'll look good as new!

Nice truck, love the yellow fogs. Haven't checked my engine hours lately but my 2015 just went over the 60k mile mark just last month. This year in Oct it will be 6 years old, I bought it brand new with only 7 miles on it. I don't really take it on long trips though and I only work 13 miles from my house, one way.

Finally got around to installing my PowerStop brakes, front and rear with new pads. What a difference! I only have a little over 60k miles on my 2015 and I don't really take it on long trips except for the occasional drive to College Station to visit my son, but I still had the stock brakes on my truck and could notice a good wobble in the steering wheel when braking at speeds of over 60mph. Front pads were worn down quite a bit but the rears still had some good meat on them but changed them all anyways. Also took my truck in to the dealership for the Rooftop side curtain airbag safety deal GM has going on. Got a letter saying it was strictly voluntary but came with a free oil change and $100 gift card, so I figured why not. Turns out, they're replacing the airbag parts at no charge after all and it was coming up due for an oil change anyways, was close enough to 20% and got me away from work for a while so why not.