adamj2121

All I know is the backup camera on my truck is 1,000x better than the backup camera on my brother's Tundra. My dad's f150 is about equal in quality to my Silverado, but he only has the small non-touch screen in his center stack.

I talked to the dealership about the rust on my truck when I purchased it, it was used with 6,000 miles on it. They would not cover any repairs to the wax/frame under warranty. So it looks like it may or may not be a service that your dealer is even willing to offer.

You would only need to clean the terminals if they are corroded or dirty. If there is a light amount of dust wiping them off with a microfiber cloth should be sufficient. If there is an excessive amount of dirt then using some electrical cleaner spray and a wire brush, steel wool, etc. should be sufficient for cleaning the connections. I think you would have noticed when performing the fix if the connections required cleaning. The G218 ground seems to be the most common cause of electrical issues, but is not the only cause. Your issues could be caused by any number of grounds on the truck. In my instance, the electrical issues were caused by a bad negative battery cable and terminal. The terminal and cable both needed to be replaced. It is also possible that the ground has a break or short somewhere along the wire. Unfortunately, the cause of electrical issues is hard to pin point as most electrical issues are very similar and inconsistent regardless of what connection is causing them. Good luck, I hope you track down the ground that is causing your issues. You can find an up fitter's electrical guide and that would give you a great starting point to determine where all of the grounds are and what ones might be worth checking.

It could have been possible that the cable to the ABS sensors was pulled too tightly when the lift was installed. Accidents happen and I imagine that cable isn't very robust so it could be easy to damage it enough to prevent the right signals from sending. I'm not sure on the park assist, it wouldn't hurt to check an make sure all of the cables going to the parking sensors are secure and free of damage.

I have read of others having issues with the traction control system. I believe there was a thread about it somewhere on the forums a while back. It seems to be inconsistent from truck to truck. Some trucks have a 9" lift and don't have issues, others had a 4" lift and have issues. I'm not sure if there was ever a solution found for it (other than disabling traction control). With my 6" lift I have had no traction control system issues.

This. His truck is also a 2014, so unless it has an extended warranty it wouldn't be covered anyway. Electronics are only covered under the 3/36 warranty, he should still have the driveline warranty but it won't cover any electrical issues, even if they affect the power train.

Do you have the active grille shutters? If you do it could be that the truck is closing them for aerodynamics once you are above 60 and isn't registering that it is getting hot enough to open them back up. That would be my first thought since it seems to weirdly only happen above 60.

Definitely a ground issue. I had similar problems with my truck, engine didn't shut off but I lost all throttle/steering for a split second and then would regain electrical systems and control. The fix for mine was replacing the negative battery cable and terminal. No major electrical issues since.

Thanks, I'll try this as soon as I get some free time. Hopefully, this Saturday at the latest.

Anyone with a 6" lift or more that has vibration issues in A4WD and 4HI? I've never had a need for 4LO but I would imagine the vibration exists there as well. When in 4Auto and 4HI the truck has a vibration through the steering wheel and cabin that seems to be related to the RPMs. It doesn't show up much or at all below 2,200 RPMs and seems to go away above 4,500 RPMs. The truck didn't do it when I first bought it with the lift, it only showed up after the dealer prematurely replaced a CV shaft. The dealer claims it is the front drive shaft and it is just a symptom of being lifted. I call BS on that as I spoke with BDS and they indicated they never received a complaint about vibrations in 4auto. Anyways the dealer is refusing to work on the truck, so I'm looking for some things to check myself.

Had the exact same issues on my truck, its been a year since it was fixed and so far no more problems. A couple of small glitches with MyLink but nothing like before. My issue ended up being the negative battery cable, the whole cable needed to be replaced, battery was replaced at the same time and the body ground was cleaned. Don't know if you have tried replacing the entire negative cable yet, but it could be a solution to your problems. It is a bummer that you have had to deal with issues for 4 years. Best of luck!

I definitely wouldn't do rhino-liner for the undercoating. Line-x has a specially formulated undercoating spray they use, it isn't the same material as the bed liner. Rhino Lining would look good and work well on the inner fender areas below the bed. There are too many areas underneath the truck though where I don't believe the liner would hold up. Plus you would need to mask basically every rotating part and be very cautious, compared to a normal undercoating.

That sucks, I will let you know if the dealer does anything with the panel gap issues on my truck, although I have started lemon law proceedings so there is a chance the truck will be purchased back before that issue is even addressed. Unfortunately, it sounds like your dealer doesn't want to work with you and help you. If you have another dealer in the area I would recommend taking the truck there and have them address your issues/concerns. The dealer I go to is about a half hour drive for me, the local dealer is 5 minutes away, I drive the extra 25 minutes because my dealer actually addresses issues and they provide a loaner 99% of the time. Best of luck in getting your truck sorted out!

I just noticed this on my truck a few weeks ago. It is currently at the dealer for other issues and I had them add this to the list. Rear passenger side door is perfectly aligned, the rear driver side door is aligned until the bottom section of the door. Pretty much goes out of alignment in the same place as in your photo. I looked over all of the panel gaps/alignments when I noticed the door, but nothing else seems to be off on my truck.Other than the window moldings are warping like crazy.

It's hard to say, GM has been using the wax for so long I really doubt they will change. I think it would be beneficial for the consumer if they would switch. The e-coating that Ford uses seems to be pretty nice.

The 8" lift will make it much easier. I have a 6" lift and I drove the truck up on some wood blocks I had laying around, so it was about 12" in the air and it was super easy.

I did my truck before there was any surface rust. Let me say to begin with, stripping the factory wax off is one of the most annoying things I have ever done. I found the best way to get the wax off was to spray with a solvent, let it sit, and then use a pressure washer (preferably heated) to knock the wax off and repeat the process until all of the wax is gone. I used a mixture of diesel fuel and Purple Power cleaner as my solvent and it worked pretty well, the diesel really softens up the wax. As far as the areas that already have rust I would do one of 2 things depending on how bad it is. If it is very minor surface rust I would just spray it with a rust reformer. If it is really bad and rough I would sand it down with a wire wheel, sanding block, etc and then spray with a rust reformer (if rust is still visible).

Most undercoatings tend to not adhere to the factory GM wax, or so I've been told. I actually stripped the wax from my truck and had a Line-X undercoating professional sprayed. The Line-X isn't bad, but if I was doing it over again I would probably just strip it myself again (can't find a shop willing to do it) and spray with an aerosol undercoating of my choosing. I personally like the 3M undercoating, but have seen very good reviews on similar products from other brands too.

I have a 16 Silverado with 6" BDS lift and 35s, no issues with the lift itself. I did have some issues with the dealership, it is an ALC truck so everything is covered under the factory warranty. When I brought it to the dealer to have everything retorqued they didn't retorque pieces correctly and things started going out of alignment and rubbing. Sometimes free isn't the best option...

My 2016 with the 6 speed is the worst shifting vehicle I have ever driven. Most shifts are clunky and there are several major hesitations everyday that make the truck suck to drive. I’ve considered a Black Bear tune, I’m just afraid I won’t see any improvement with it. The dealer currently has my truck to look at the shifting issues and I have a 18 Sierra with the 8 speed as a loaner, much smoother shifting and more responsive than the 6 speed. I haven’t noticed any of the issues I have seen reported on here for trucks with the 8 speed.

Well MSRP on both Fabtech and BDS kits is just over $2,000 usually you can get these at a discounted rate through the installer, but there is no guarantee. Most places charge around $500 - $800 to install and do an alignment. So you aren't going to get off much cheaper for a 6" lift. ALC uses EGR fender flares, not sure about SCA, but those will run about $450 unpainted. Tires are another $1000-$1500, depending on brand and such. Wheels are $800-$1600 on average depending on what you want. Not sure what SCA charges for their wheels. So you aren't going to be able to do your modifications for cheap. EDIT: Just got on SCA's website their 20" wheels are $330 a piece, so about $1,300 for a set. And you can buy the wheels directly from their site: http://www.scaperformance.com/chevrolet-products/sca-performance-20-inch-wheel-gloss-black-with-milled-spoke-accents

From my understanding you can purchase accessories from SCA, like the wheels, their bumpers, etc. but if you want a truck that is lifted by them and backed by their warranty you would need to purchase from a dealer. That being said you could buy a BDS, Fabtech, McGaughy's or other lift and have it installed by any reputable shop and you should be good. Figure $2,000 for the lift kit and $1,000 for install (it shouldn't cost quite that much, but it is better to budget for more and have money left over when it is cheaper)

Had similar issues with mine and it ended up being the negative battery cable. The cable needed to be replaced, it took over a month to find the issue.

I would say that is why you are having a hard time finding a shop to install them. I would also say a tire shop isn’t going to want to do the trimming either. I would find a shop that will mount and the tires for you (which may be difficult as no one really wants the liability of mounting those tires on that wide of a rim) and then take the truck to the shop that lifted it to have the trimming done.

I’ve also experienced intermittent issues with CarPlay, both with my 6s and now with my X. I don’t know if the issue is with the infotainment system or Apple’s software. I haven’t asked the dealer about it as I’m sure they would blame it on the phone. I have found I can usually fix the issue by removing the USB cord and plugging it back in.